acesneights1

Ok, dodged a bullet. In case this symptom happens to anyone else.

basically the splined shaft coming out of the IP was skipping. The lever was just loose enough that when you gave the truck more than half throttle it would skip a spline then would idle high because the lever was hitting the forward adj. if I "snapped" the pedal hard the splined shaft would actually skip back.

I clocked it and tightened it.. Problem solved.

Ok that's what I wasn't sure. I know I watched a guy do a Mack years ago and he used some sort of degree wheel on the crank. Fenders come off pretty easy . It looks like the power steering pump and air compressor all have to come off too.

ughhh...what am I looking at to remain this pump $$?

How difficult is it to change ? How is it timed ?

Update. Dumped 3 quarts 2 stroke, a big bottle of standyne

 additive , a bottle of Lucas and 2 bottles of sea foam. No improvement . Is the IP toast ?

Thanks. Oddly enough I jut put standyne additive in and it started right after that . Would 2 stroke oil work ? I use that on the GM 6.2/5s and the Dodge guys use it on the VP pumps.

Have an ENDT 673 and today it started not idling. It idles fine until I drive it down the road then it won't return to idle. It gets stuck between 8-1000 rpms. If i snap the Pedal(fuel) a couple times it will idle normal again around 550 rpms. If I drive easy and don't give it more than half throttle it won't do it. Could this be the governor coming apart? I check all the linkage and there is no binding and I have pulled over when the truck is idling high and the throttle lever on the Inj pump is against the stop. f i try to lift up on the fuel pedal, nothing changes. The only way to get it to idle normal is snap the pedal a few times or shut the truck off and re start it.

Thanks for the help. I ended up getting a set off ebay although good to have a Felpro number and I will contact Barry about other part issues.

I said that to the parts guy at gabrielli and his answer was, I can't do anything without a vin #.

I had found a few threads here but none seem to help with my situation. I have an ENDT 673 non oil squirter. It has tow canister filters(I think one is a bypass ?). The truck takes forever to build oil pressure on cold start up. A friend of mine gave me a  spin on filter setup complete with oil cooler. it looks like it will bolt right in place of what I hve but he said he "thinks" I have to drill a hole in the bottom and then into another chamber so the passage for the oil squiter goes back to the pan and then tap and plug the first hole I drilled to make the second hole. Also Mack will not help me at all and I need part numbers for the gasket for the oil filter housing to block and oil cooler to waterpump.

Thanks

I called my Local Mack dealer and they will not even talk to me without a Mack vin#. My motor is in an AM General.

Does anyone one know the part#s for the Valve cover gaskets and also the seal for the shaft on the shutoff on teh IP ? I believe it to be an American Bosch Pump.

I have an ENDT 673 military and is has no coolant filter and I have had to pull and flush the rad and engine twice so far so I would like to install a coolant filter. Where are they installed and plumbed on civilian applications ? Pics would be great.

Thanks.

Like most old Military trucks, it has ground issues. gauge is at fault. There is a test port on the turbo feed line. 55 psi luke warm idle.

Would a newer Mack motor bolt in place of this one like a 237 or a 300 ? As far as mounts and physical size ?

I may have pushed it too hard dragging a trailer back from NY.

It was making like a starving hydraulic pump sound when it was cold but the truck is a Manual. I wonder if that was the oil pump.

That is what I was afraid of. I guess she's getting the torch. I don't have money for a motor and I have an M813 with Cummins that needs a cab.

I probably damaged it when it overheated...That stinks.

: (

So the motor is most likely toast.

I have an M52a1 with this motor and I noticed the oil pressure was lower than usual today. it is very cold out but it is only running about 15-20 psi idle cold and maybe 35 if I race it up. I could swear it had more.

The truck overheated pretty good the other day but seems to be running fine now. No oil in the antifreeze and vice versa. No pressure in the cooling system/ Also this truck takes about 10 to 15 seconds to build oil pressure. I wasn't overly concerned as I know that is normal on the M52's Multifuel counter part because of the upside down canister filters. Should that be normal on this truck as well ?

I found a heater for my Tractor but for the life of me I cannot see anyplace on my Mack motor to tap in for heater hoses. Does anyone have a couple good pics of an ENDT 673 with heater hoses coming off it ? The Military TM's do not cover this engine with a heater kit.

Thanks.

Yes, I have an oil cooler.

I picked up  a 1974 AM General(I am told it is probably actually late 60's Jeep Kaiser)M52a1 5 ton Military truck.

It has a Mack ENDT 673. My question is how can I get rid of the canister filters ? It has one oil filter and one bypass. They both leak like sieves no matter what I do. Is there a filter head setup of a civilian Mack that would replace what I have ? Would anyone have a Picture of what a 673 with spin on filters looks like ?

Thanks

Nice find! How did you find out about it?

I buy and sell alot from the auctions and know some people.....

Being unhappily married and having a mother in law living with me gives me alot of time in front of the computer...

No sure but most military units were able to ford, so the crankcase could be vented different. Does it have a road vent tube?.

FW

You know, you may be on to something. No it does not have a road tube that I can see. This one does have the Fording kit on it. It makes sense now. The one breather at the oil fill is piped into the air filter. There are two more small ones off the top of the valve cover that just point down . They look like the old crankcase tubes we use to put on the Detroit. These tubes both have valves on them operated by the Fording cable in the cab. I will double check that the are clear.

Any ideas where I could find the oil filter numbers and fuel filter ? I could not find anything at Steel Soldiers. Being that this is a Mack motor did the civilian version of it have spin ons or canister also ?

It almost seems like that cap works like a radiator cap allowing a certain amount of pressure to build up ?? There should be no pressure correct ?

It's a shame because it seems to run good otherwise but when I take the cap off you can hear pressure releasing. I would imagine that much pressure will start blowing out seals etcs ? Could I put a better vent on the valve cover or is she done ?