scott

this worked on my B-61 scott

THANKS FOR THE INFO guys. I have a solenoid from a R model dash that I will be using for under the dash on my B. The wierd thing is that my RS I dont hear that "click" when I turn the key. I will have to check to see if there is one there? I know the temp guage will not work if the jey is off but all the lights, acc, and pretty much the whole elec system works with the key off??

I should have the fuse panel tomorrow and start wireing in a few days

trent i have extra blown-up copies of an '88 R-model wire diagram. if you would like one send me your address scott

Great looking truck. Give a little more info on it, Details of what you have all done to etc. Looks like it has a/c and what not. Thanks

originally tandem dump(elm city const new haven conn. one of six bought new in '63) i started taking apart in early '03 frame was a mess under dump sub frame. found two good inner rails and bought new14 ft outers from pg adams from the cab back. replaced worn 5/8 rivits and bolts with 3/4 flange bolts. q-box rebuilt with pia kit and new lower counter shaft. new two disc clutch. bought '81 RD with a bent chassis for the E-6 350 two valve and the 44 rears(4.64 ratio) did brakes with new every thing. motor got new rods and mains and a recon. jake brake, rebuilt tip turbine,673 water pump and balancer hub. had radiator recored(30% more effective?? time will tell) i sand blasted all the sheet metal and chassis parts. body work and paint went to body shop. painted chassis with john deere primer and black enamel, time will tell on that too. built the chassis and used all new valves and color coded brake lines. put the cab on as soon as i got it back in the fall of '05, BIG MISTAKE, i should have done as much as possible while it was at floor level. followed an '88 R-model wire diagram soldered and heat shrink ends. dyna-mat sound deadener and insulated the cab, electric right side window, lt. blue roll and pleat on cowl ,doors and behind two (e-bay) bostrom seats, home made head ache rack with dual exh. and light bar,home made wet tank, heat and air unit. learned a lot from this site, stole a lot of ideas, picked a lot of brains clean, lots of work, can't wait to do another one. scott

finally able to move her around. lots left to do ,fifth wheel, pintel plate, finish bumper, and a hundred small things that if i don't do them now they won't get done. getting busy with work so it's going to be hard to find time to finish for a while. scott posted more photos in gallery.

I've never done that but can tell you that parts are anywhere from non-existant, to exhorbitant in cost for both the Thermodyne, and Maxidyne series V8 Mack engines. This is of course in comparison to the inline Mack engines.

Just my opinion.

Rob

how do the old V-8's compare size wise (length, width, height, and weight to the E-9? were the frame rails different for ,say an 815 vs a regular B-81 with an inline motor? scott

DO you know how much it costs for 36' 1/4 in frame rails like a ballpark price?

i had two grade 100 fourteen footers made for my B a couple of years ago. they were $750 delivered to wallingford conn. i too was very pleased with the fit and the fast service. scott

I opened the box to replace the bulb, everything sprung out. anybody know how it goes back together? There are the two push buttons for left and right, and the top button to turn off. There are springs on all three, and two sheet metal L s that the L/R shaft go through, seems simple enough but no combination of reassebly works. There is also a wire bale on the bottom of box that plays a mysterious role somehow

Ned

after taking mine apart for the um-teenth time and shining up contacts, screwing with springs and all the other stuff in there, i figured how to wire in two lighted toggle switches through the holes where the square buttons were. that was over ten years ago- haven't had the cover off since. scott

Does anyone know who sells or where I can get a dual chamber aluminum fuel tank? I've seen them on a Pete. I'm looking for the kind that you can put fuel in one side and hyd. oil in the other. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill

everyone that i know has had thier tank cut, a plate devider welded in along with the filler and fitting. if the gallons work out right the tank weld goes under the strap and you can't see it. ask around and see where the others had them done, or try the salvage yards. scott

Unless it has the older type clutch brake mounted at the front of the countershaft, that type could possibly be done that way, but I personally have never performed that particular procedure by working through the inspection hole.

Maybe Superdog would know.

yup- thats the one. might have solved the problem. the leak seems to be coming from the center of the disc which would point to the cap screw holding it on. i never gave it a thought to put sealent on it when i put it together. hopefully have enough room to get the brake/ cover out of the way to make the fix. scott

is it possible to remove the clutch brake components thru the inspection/service opening on the bottom of the clutch housing on a trq-7220 and change the seal ? scott

book say's straight mineral, or is there something newer and better? scott

Sounds like you're considering swapping a 237 into your B model to replace your 673?

It's basically a bolt in swap, everythings pretty much the same, you have to use the water pump & housing from the 673 cause its shorter. Other than that just make new intake & exhaust piping to accomodate the turbo.

If your truck has the lower right side mounted starter, you'll have to swap your original bellhousing onto the 237.

Good luck, you'll enjoy that 237 in your B model.

save the damper hub from the original 673. it is also shorter and needed to clear the radiator. scott

i put a two disc clutch in with an e-6 350 and a q-box. the part search was a killer,longer input shaft, deeper clutch housing, two disc flywheel, and the right linkage were tough to come by. longer input for a duplex???.if you find one don't forget to count the gear teeth. the trans mounts have to be redrilled 1 1/2 '' rearward, which will means drive shaft work. i did all my work with the cab off so it wasn't too bad. nostalgia and the thought that the q-box would keep the swap simpler didn't pan out. if i were doing it today i'd look into the big 8speed-low low fuller and convert to a pull clutch. if you decide to go with a later tranny don't forget about your rear end ratio. back to the duplex, a lot of early R-models had them so that could help widen your search. a friend used a 7 speed mack trans behind a 300 maxidyne in an early DM that originaly had a 673 and a quad-box to get him to highway speed. hope this helps. good luck. scott

hey everybody you have to see this truck these students are building it is unbelievable.

has anyone seen any more photos of the truck completed? i'd like to see what they did for a charge air cooler scott

Wow, that is a strange animal...I am not sure what it is...maybe someone here has already tangled with something like this can put a name to it.

She said it is mounted on the frame back by the carrier...I though maybe a relay or quick release valve, but I have never seen one like that...

barry, thats the same responce i got when i put one of those on the counter. i eliminated one like it on my b-67 years ago. donna if there is no hose that goes to the barb end and you can trace the other two lines to there origin maybe we can be more sure of what to do with it. scott

this is an R-model dump pulling tip-turbin air from under the hood and he doesn't have a problem. your truck looks great, i wish i was that far along. scott

You are very observant and you also know your macks!!!!!! The air cleaner is actually a dry type that I got from Watt's mack that looks like the original....I have been told by a couple of people that did this engine swap that I would suck the oil out of the air cleaner if I used the old oil bath air cleaner, so I updated to the newer type.... also, I put a K&N dry type filter element directly on the tip turbine fan so it would be filtered air going into it under the hood. I think if I were to work the truck hard on a hot day, I may have a slight problem with hi pyro temp with in not being outside air, but for what I am going to use the truck for I think it will be okay. (at least I am hopeing) I didn't want to cut a hole in my hood for the 2nd air feed pipe and use the dual draw air filter, so this is what I came up with...I wanted the original look.

this is an R-model dump pulling tip-turbin air from under the hood and he doesn't have a problem. your truck looks great, i wish i was that far along. scott

Does PAI have a web address?

http://www.paiindustries.com i think you will have to register and log in to look around. scott

Superdog- why would you want to use air to raise windows- and electric is so simple and always available. I'd hate to have to air up to get the window open. I added electric windows to my B67- its a piece of cake. Can use any number of kits for the prupose- all work abouut the same. You have gobs of space available. Check the streetrod guys. They have this figgered out

dale, mind telling which window kit you used? were you able to install it one piece like a non power unit? scott

scroll down the engine and trans page to "my B-61 project" by pennysjeff, lots of info and photos. scott

No replys?---golly. Does this mean that finding a good used is the best route?

mark, i had one done a year ago and pai did list a bearing kit and gasket set. they have a site with a good picture and a list of of parts, but some are no longer available. best to call them. i got the oil pump kit from mack. the pai site also lists the mack part #'s. it took me two tranny's and and quite a few $$$$ to make one good one. so yes i'd keep looking for a good used one. also there are a lot of expensive parts that won't be visible when you remove the top covers. happy hunting scott

chad, i might have something you can use, it's an air mech. for a ch and i don't think i can make it work on my B. i live across town from you call me @ 265-1778. scott

does anyone know the dimensions of the cooler for the big allison? how are they behind a maxidyne motor?

i have a good 300 and a 6 speed planned for my 6 wheel dump, but an automatic seems like an easier installation. i've seen fire trucks listed for sale as late as 1989 with e-6 350 two valves, engine mount cooler and tip turbine, does that sound right or a misprint? scott

I forgot to mention...

i have to ditto that , and if my significant other had any idea of the money i was spending she'd likely have me committed. where did you get the top radiator hose? #'s??? i went with a cable throttle, not crazy about it but it's done. sounds like you'll be "tooling down the road" way ahead of me. i wouldn't worry about the q-box, one of the locals has an old DM tri axel with a 300+ and a q-box, he's been running the truck for 15 years and many 20+ ton loads later. i'm sure if it gave him too much grief it would have been changed long ago. the torque figures look awful and plenty of them have come apart, but a little TLC and you shouldn't have any trouble. keep up the good work. scott

under the scoop should be filter and duct that feeds air to the tip turbine. if you happen to run across a junker with that set-up i want it for my next project. scott