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WOLFWALKER

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Posts posted by WOLFWALKER

  1. I have a '74 mack R model with a ENDTB675 engine, the raditor after a small accident hit the crank shaft counter weight and bent it about a 1/4" and it apears to be crooked and wobbles though it is still good and tight when the engine is running, the pulleys behind the counter weight look fine and still running true. My question is can I have it rebent straight or could I replace it with another counterweight off a used ENDTB675 engine without any problems or will I have to have the whole shaft and weight re-balanced? Anyone know where I could buy one real cheap? Contact me at - wolfwalker223@aol.com

  2. Is there some compelling reason that this truck cannot be posted in the "For Sale" section?

    A while back this ad was posted in the driveline & suspension section:

    http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=10841

    Now it's in the Air Systems & Brakes section.

    I fully understand that this particular truck does indeed have a Driveline & Suspension, and it also has an Air System & Brakes, but actually, if someone is looking to buy a truck, they'll find it quicker in the For Sale section.

    .

    Hey sorry for the mistake,Not everyone is perfect, Since it's my first few post cut me a little slack.You can be sure it will be in THE FOR SALE section next time.Why don't you just buy it and save me the trouble of making a simple mistake again?

  3. I am use to the old mack slack adjusters with the hex head for adjustment, but the 1975 R model I just got does not have any thing there but a little stub that you cant get a wrench on it.

    How do you adjust the slack adjusters on this model truck? She's alittle hard to stop with a load and I can't seem to figure out how to adjust them.

  4. Are your spacer rings the same size keeping the tires apart? If the tires are rubbing, the spacer needs to be wider. I've never seen different rim offsets in Dayton style wheels but that doesn't mean they don't exist. I've never had problems switching sets of tires from one truck with Daytons, to another. It could be that someone mounted larger tires on a narrower rim also. Might be a good idea to check rim widths of both sets.

    Rob

    Rob, if i put the wider spacer on then my wedges that hold the wheel on wont bottom out on the stops, will this hurt the mounting or as long as they are tight they nessesarly dont need to bottom out when you tighten them up?

    I will have to measure the rims, if they seem different than I will have to switch out the tires to the original rims that came off the truck and try that ,but what a hassle that will be changing out 8 tires and wheels which I was trying to avoid.

    Thanks for your help and advice

  5. Hi, was wondering if any one had any advice on switching out Rear tires from a 66 U model mack with 6 lugs to a 75 R model that has 5 lug axle. The tires are 10.00 x20's and I did have to switch out the seprator rings also to get the wheel clamps and nuts to tighten up.

    But the problem is on one side the clearence between the tire and leaf spring is only about 3/4 of an inch where as the other side is more like 1 1/2 of an inch clearance from the leaf springs .Also with the truck loaded the tires seem to rub each other when the truck hits a dip or hole in the road, and the truck vibrates and is hard to hold in the road since the wheels where switched out.

    I want to switch them out because the tires are mud grip and I need the extra traction here in the mountains of Virginia and was hoping I wouldn't need to change out the tires and have to remove the tires from the rims and switch out the rims in order to change out these tires and rims.

    So any one who has some advice please email me at, Wolfwalker2223@aol.com ,or respond to this page.

    Thank you

  6. MY 237 HAS A KNOCKING NOISE UPON ACCELERATION, IT'S NOT BAD BUT AFTER IT WARMS UP THERE SEEMS TO BE A KINDA SPARK KNOCK LIKE NOISE WHEN YOU LUG OR ACCELERATE ON THE THROTTLE.THE TICK OR KNOCKING NOISE KINDA REMINDS ME OF SPARK KNOCK IN A GAS ENGINE. THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE VALVES NEED ADJUSTED,BECAUSE OF THE TICKING OR KNOCKING BUT SEEMS TO ME IF IT WAS THE VALVES IT WOULD TICK ALL THE TIME.BUT IT SEEMS TO DO IT WHEN YOU REV UP THE ENGINE,OR ACCELERATE,OR LUG THE ENGINE

    SO NEED TO FIND OUT IF ANYONE HAS HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS AND HOW TO REMEDY IT,CAN ANYONE HELP?

  7. Hi Wolfwalker -We had an Australian built 1974/75 R600 with a Shepherd Power Steering Box fitted as original, and I wasted hundreds of hours working on the steering and rebuilding it and I tried everything to get the play out of the wheel without much success. I was told that because they had a lot of turns lock to lock, it was impossible to get them tight like the later Shepherds and Ross Boxes, which were much more direct. From new they had a lot of free play in the wheel. Eventually we went back to Power Assist which was much more safer on the road. Other model Shepherds of that age may have been better but I could not find one - Best regards - Michael.

    Not quit sure which type I have but there is what looks like an ajustment screw with a lock nut on the twards engine side of the steering housing that looks like it might adjust the gear movement ,but Im not sure,anyone know the facts about how to take out the slop in the steering wheel?or what that screw does?

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