monserandsons

have no idea about old macks but I luv em and I will have another. but that house in the back looks real familiar

iv never claimed to be a big truck guy but that is what the mack said, although the cab was changed no matter how you look at it, even with that new motor the mack had, im hundreds of miles ahead with this as far as being legal and looking presentable we actually looked at a rd with a 237 in baibridge just like the old one for 7500. about the same condition as this ford. my dad said he would give me the other 2500 I needed but hes helped us out enough already

actually one of the main reasons I went to look at it was because its 35,000. the rear axle tag says eaton 23,000 the mack tag only said 19,000 on the rear. the only thing that's got me is the fact that the O-rings are seeping between the heads and front cover. its pina no matter how u do it. doesn't leak when hot only after it cools. my research says pulling the heads is easier but because of its low hours and the fact that it barely smokes when its cold im gonna go for the front cover. after that the only thing I wish it had was some kind of retarder. thanks for the replies, im really proud of it. i

thanks, unfortunately the two orings that go from the heads to the front cover are seeping antifreeze. there is no easy fix. my research says the heads are the way to go. but since the engine has low hours and doesn't smoke im going to go for the front cover. I realize its no mack but my chances of passing the road test are much better in this truck. my father drove it back from Hartford ct for me. this was one of the most stressful days of my lifeit was 180 miles one way. ibrought everything from a generator to a fire extinguisher. not many old trucks look like that around here.

I think I did good for 4200 and I can actually shift it

on my radiator there is a small glass port halfway up the radiator. is this the level or minimum mark. im looking for some manuals. thanks

hi all I got the truck and am very happy with its condition. I know I will have to replace the throwout bearing but some grease really quieted it. my big question is the waterpump is quite large with several protrusions. each head has about an 1 1/2 pipe going into this large pump casting. there is what looks like an oring on each. both sides have a slow drip, doesn't spray when hot just a slow drip. any suggestions? its a 3208 and the tranny is actually 5+2. thanks.

hi forgive me if im posting in the wrong area tomorrow im going to look at a s/a ford with the 3208. iv already asked the owner a bunch of questions so im wondering this- when they say it has a 6 speed transmission does that mean its a 6 speed auto or manual transmission? thanks.

mack is sold and I got enough to get into another truck, thanks to all

no matter what I do im going to start disessembling the truck. any suggestions on what to do to the motor for long term storage?

theres no welding to it. maybe I sugar coated it?does anyone have a frame they would sell or trade? I have some neat things. but I don't want junk for junk. I will make some calls but looks like it might be getting cut up.

rail quote based on exact dimension and shape- 9500.00 not gonna happen

Hey guys, after numerous evaluations I have realized I'm kidding myself if I think I can cob it. The outer rail appears to be 1/4'', and the inner rail appears to be 3/16" thick. My question is if I purchase new rails can I go with just a 1/4" single rail? This would help keep cost down and simplify future maintenance. I also found a tag on engine's it saysCAMEROTA truck parts ID# 65342. There's a phone that I will call and see what they say. If been saving for that old D6 for some time but if been in contact with pg Adams and we will see what they can do for me. If purchasing rails is out of my future it might be on the market.thanks

thanks guys!

couldn't find the frame #'s front axle # isn't legible cant find # on engine? if I want to order anew rail how can I be sure I get the right one? thanks

the right front fender wont swing out without removing the tw intake pipes, limiting sight to the engine tag. # on top of timing gear housing are not there? frame rail # are not there, maybe because of heavy rust? heres the tranny #'s x107 9h2968 11kba5936 bp13

when I found the split in the frame I kinda gave up almost two years ago, last year I got the d6, drilled the bellhousing for direct elec start and got it in the barn for a mechanical makeover(not full on resto)its got good chains but I need to spend some money. now ive got two machines apart and starting two feel overwhelmed. ive lost out on a ton of chances to make money with the Mack and refuse to let it sit there any longer, heres some pics of the d6, its done its time but its with me now, and be back in shape soon, after the Mack.cant seem to find a good picture from the side, will take some when I look for the # on the rails,thanks guys

I have doors early seventies I believe should I take a picture

it belonged to my father in law he passed 05 check out my website im skilled carpenter if you need one- monserandsons.com

just want to say I recently learned computers and joined 3 different forums and I have by far got the most positive welcoming here thanks I have three kids and a million things goin on but I will make sure to document my progress here. thanks again

regis. says 74 R685T45*** cab tag says R686ST12*** front axle 10,860 rear axle 19,000 GVWR 54,000 not sure what to do with that as far as parts? some more pics

some more picshaving trouble with camera and loading pics what is the approx. value with the brand new rubber and the engine as good as im claiming?

sounds like it can be fixed, what about those springs? I cant see any cracks but is that something dot would get upset about?

Thanks guys I feel better now. I had a real hard time getting the rims off I had to use a ports power. I guess now I'll get the front wheels off and prep that area. Where should I go to get the drums,shoes, and s can bushings? If got brand new rubber everywhere. I made my own battery box, am I required to have a lid on it? Thanks again, I won't be shy ask in questions now

hi again, long story short it was a plow truck. the drivers side(double rail) is split between the front shackles. the passenger side is so much better it looks like its from a different truck. im assuming this is from road salt splash. the drivers side rear springs are bulging from rust between the springs. after reading several threads here I believe I can just change the drivers side? maybe its repairable? my father in law passed and the truck belongs to me now. less than a year before his death this engine was either professionally rebuilt or was purchased new? somewhere I have receipts and they are in the ten thousand range, the cab was changed at the same time. what type of engine is it? I used it for ahwhile but was never able to shift it smoothly. its been in the garge the last two years, but I start it about once a month. there was one period when I didn't start it for 4 or 5 months. it starts so well you never here it crankin. turn the key and its instantly runnin, even when its cold.i never saw the split until after I had spent a great deal of time and money. I need a truck this size and will fix it if it can be done reasonably, but after searching I know ican find a nice lookin single axle ford or international for less than ten thousand.tell me what u guys think. the engine doesn't have a single wet spot around any gaskets but the tranny leaks oil, the steering box leasks and the rear end leaks where the drive axle comes in. I have very little big truck experience and don't know if I should fix it or get another truck? the tranny has lever for gear selection and lever for forward, reverse and high forward, I believe. registration says 1974. what exactly do I have here? thanks.