Polarhound

There are dozens of possible spring weights and configurations.  You will need to check with the dealer to see what is specifically in your truck.

On 4/22/2021 at 9:26 PM, Mackpro said:

I don’t know exactly when the ceramic roller abs spring loaded push tubes were phased into actual production

Ceramic lifters were phased into production in January 2002 beginning with engine s/n 1Y2008.  However, From 07/2002 through 09/2002, ~1100 engines (serial number range 2N, 2O and 2R) were manufactured with steel lifters as well.

On 4/16/2021 at 5:15 AM, Swishy said:

we have a mack th@ passes a bit of oil down to the 1st tank, the oil n heat carbonizes n clogs up the main pipe th@ restricts the air flow

This is also why it is so critical to use a proper coalescing air dryer cartridge on US07 and newer engines.  Too many people try to save a few dollars by using older style non-coalescing cartridges or not changing them on time (once per year).  Failing to maintain it risks not only clogging up the tanks, but screwing up your entire AHI system.  

From MTPI 561-016:

Note: Proper servicing of the air dryer with an oil coalescing media cartridge is critical to the
Aftertreatment Hydrocarbon Doser (HC Doser) system. The HC Doser system uses
compressed air to purge fuel from the HC Doser nozzle supply pipe and the HC Doser
nozzle. This air is also used to continuously cool the HC Doser nozzle and to prevent soot
from the exhaust entering the HC Doser nozzle. The removal of oil from the compressed air
system is critical to support the function of the air control solenoid valve in the HC Doser
dosing module. Oil in the air supply can collect in the valve and cause it to stick, inhibiting the
function of the valve. Additionally, oil in the air can collect on the HC Doser nozzle and form
deposits which can reduce HC Doser nozzle flow. Coalescing Air Dryer Cartridges should be
serviced and replace every 12 months during normal preventive maintenance.

On 4/8/2021 at 9:40 AM, Gary W. Ford said:

I have a 1994 200CS 200 Mac Renault and can't find the brake reservior??

Any help out there??

Assuming you are talking about a hydraulic master cylinder/reservoir assembly.  There are several options, would need to know the last 6 of the VIN and whether you have disc or drum brakes.

On 3/5/2021 at 8:40 AM, fjh said:

he average clutch {job here}  for the I shift M drive is By the time the dust settles close to ten grand flywheel clutch actuator s and rigging all should be replaced

Actuator, yes.  Flywheel, no.  The flywheel can be turned.  If it's not out of spec, it can be cleaned up just fine.

If you're paying $10k for a clutch job, you're getting robbed.  A clutch and reman actuator are ~$2000 combined.  Even with using new hardware for the clutch and flywheel (which you should be, not worth saving a couple dollars by reusing the hardware), that's still only ~$100 more in parts.  Can't think of any reason why you are paying the equivalent of 58 hours labor just to have your clutch done...

Bypassing it is not recommended.  If it's blowing and you are not 479% certain that it is not a bad breaker, you risk sending the entire truck up in flames.

The breaker you are looking for to replace yours looks to be part number 21301448.  Mack has 261 of them at their PDCs.  This should automatically reset as opposed to hitting the button.  If you want one with a button, look at a Bussman CB185 series breaker.  You can find the 150A breaker, with a reset button on it, at Grainger under item# 6CJA2, Bussman part number CB185-150.

I just spoke to the original manufacturer of the cover, they told me it is an obsolete part and have no cross to either another number or any reference under the current Mack number.

General questions about this model would be much better answered in the Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion forum, there are many MS owners that frequent there.

There is not enough information given to answer this question.  Assuming the truck has a manual transmission, the answer would be yes ASSUMING it does not have a self-adjusting clutch to begin with.  If it has an AMT, the answer would be no.

Things like this are why we always strongly recommend never reusing the bolts.  Over the years have had a couple occasions where a customer wanted to save $5 by reusing EUP bolts only to have one come loose or shear.  For a couple of years I kept a broken EUP one guy brought back; when the bolt broke, it rattled so hard that it broke into a dozen pieces.  Whenever someone protested about getting the bolts, I'd slap that bag down on the counter.

On 1/25/2016 at 11:47 AM, jackb61sx said:

What Mack location is in Boston or Lowell Ma, I only know of McDevitt in Tewksbury and Manchester NH which I use for my truck parts and have great luck using. I know for service have used Assebet Mack in the past.

Avon, MA is a former McDevitt location, now owned by Ballard Mack.

The Springfield, MA location when they left State St actually moved to West Springfield.  In 2010 Springfield Mack became another Ballard location.

Anyone have a fuse panel diagram for a 1994 CH600.. Any help will be appreciated... Thanks

Any dealer should be able to print this out for you. Go into the parts department with your exact model and vin, and tell them what you need. The arrangement number I came up with for one of my customers 1994 CH613 trucks was 17MS727P2, although yours might vary slightly. The internal name for this assembly is "ELEC EQUIP INT-BASIC"

Good luck!

I put a block heater in an 1999 E7 eteck drained out the antifreeze and wonder what kind of antifreeze I should use and if I have to put in an electrolysis prevention additive like you do for the old cummins. I have some extended life antifreeze made by peek will that work?

Antifreeze sold for Class 8 use will normally have the additive already in it. Up at our dealership, we use Houghton Security red antifreeze that already has the nitrite SCA (supplement coolant additive) in it for all shop jobs.

By far, this link gives the best information on not only what your coolant needs to have, but WHY.

I had a customer last year looking for the same item for several trucks. Some we had in stock, but others we were told, after a three-week wait, was that they could do it only if the customer wanted to pay $$$$$$$$$$ for tooling setup to make that one part.

IIRC, the customer ended up taking a picture of the data plate and had a sign shop make new ones for him.

Have you checked with your local dealer to see if they are still available?

http://www.uphs.org/4023move.html

Great link.

For anyone wondering if the newer trucks can hold up to this kind of load, check page 25 of the newest Bulldog Magazine.

We have an abandoned set of these up here just waiting for a good home:

A guy ordered them last year and never picked them up. One of these days we'll find somebody that wants to pimp their ride with these chrome bad boys.

for a quick fix weld a long bolt to it, cut the head of the bolt off and it will hold just fine. The straps are pricy from mack. I am making 4 straps for the b model for just about the same cost of 1 from a dealer.

The RW straps, assuming the examples I just looked up on a couple of 1985 RW models with 96gal and 112gal tanks, actually have two possible straps that can fit according to my cross reference. Fitment-wise, I am showing an 8MB330AM4 to be the most likely original equipment with an 8MB357M2 to be a possible replacement based on an internal reference. Some trucks, however, used an 8MB330AM3 instead.

Take these part numbers to your local dealer and have him price them out. It is likely that they would have both in stock as they are both current production parts allowing you to check for any differences. Your dealer can also run your VIN to determine which is correct. Based on my limited research, you should be able to get straps with no problems whatsoever.

FYI - Normally the same strap is used for both sides, if this helps as well.

Good luck with it!

ya could also go to a local dealer & give them a VIN # & get the factory specs on the truck

I just tried running the vin to get the information but it comes up as invalid.

If you still need the information, please double check the vin and post a corrected one. I can then look for you.

I saw a row of Glider Kits when I was in Macungie last week. I'm sure you can order a Glider this year without any trouble. I also saw some Granite and R cabs in crates.

We got a CX glider kit in for one of our customers at the beginning of December. We have had no trouble whatsoever ordering them.

You cant wear that motor out, its bulletproof. We only keep 2 parts instock for Midliners, the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and thats it. Parts are hard to look up and every time we order something it comes in wrong. The interior cab parts are kind cheap and flimsy but over all I would buy it if the price was right. They seem to last forever.

Up in our neck of the woods we still have many customers that run Midliners. While our parts stock is lower than in the past, we still carry a few hundred numbers. On top of this, some of our customers who have Midliner parts on their shelves will occasionally feed us their stock lists. If we don't have it, sometimes we can get it back from them. We get a few dozen calls per week for Midliners, some as far away as Texas.

The biggest key to looking up Midliner parts is to use the old books instead of the computer. Even when a VRI does exist, it is better to take the build date and info and hit the book so you can get the correct revision listing. This is especially critical with any engine or driveline parts.