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How To Build Clutch Linkage For B61


ggreen

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i just put a 9 speed eaton and a 350 mack in my b61 ,it has a twin disc pull clutch so arms move in opposite directions now , i know somebody has figured out this before .any help would be appreciated thanks

It will need to be fabricated but a lot simpler to use a cable. Might want to consider using a "hanging pedal from an R model which are easily located.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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It will need to be fabricated but a lot simpler to use a cable. Might want to consider using a "hanging pedal from an R model which are easily located.

Rob

No No No. Rob, don't tell me there is an easier way. :angry:

You mean that (remember right hand drive), My clutch pedal which comes/travels about 14" out of the floor (leaving me 17" to place my leg and I'm 6' 2" tall) and then, still in one piece goes almost to the back of the gearbox, over the top and then down the left hand side of the gearbox to the clutch.

This same pedal that needs almost both feet to hold it down at the traffic lights - don't tell me it can be replaced by "a hanging pedal from an R model". :unsure:

I suppose this new arrangement can also be operated by one foot only?

Don't tell me it can be done - simply. I don't want to know :wacko:

Ah...the younger generation :thumb:

Proud owner of;

1961 Mack B61 prime mover.

1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck

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i just put a 9 speed eaton and a 350 mack in my b61 ,it has a twin disc pull clutch so arms move in opposite directions now , i know somebody has figured out this before .any help would be appreciated thanks

[/quote

ggreen I did it to the flintstone, Pedal through floor... single plate push clutch.... to twin plate pull clutch.

was easy and had a unbelievable ligh pedal using the same pedal and chasis arrangement.

But it just occured to me that you probably have a left hand drive vehicle, as mine was RHD

I have never seen a LHD setup. I imagine it would be mutch the same, juat on the other side.

I cut the front gusset where the rod comes through and made the rod curved.

Then for the rod out of the bell housing i cut an old BPW slack adjuster that are longer than the normal ones

tacked it the splined dog on the shaft, adjusted the travel ect. Not a hard job. Lay under it and figure it out. Easy Mark

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i just put a 9 speed eaton and a 350 mack in my b61 ,it has a twin disc pull clutch so arms move in opposite directions now , i know somebody has figured out this before .any help would be appreciated thanks

[/quote

ggreen I did it to the flintstone, Pedal through floor... single plate push clutch.... to twin plate pull clutch.

was easy and had a unbelievable ligh pedal using the same pedal and chasis arrangement.

But it just occured to me that you probably have a left hand drive vehicle, as mine was RHD

I have never seen a LHD setup. I imagine it would be mutch the same, juat on the other side.

I cut the front gusset where the rod comes through and made the rod curved.

Then for the rod out of the bell housing i cut an old BPW slack adjuster that are longer than the normal ones

tacked it the splined dog on the shaft, adjusted the travel ect. Not a hard job. Lay under it and figure it out. Easy Mark

/quote] thanks everyone, Mark the front gusset you cut is that the gussett on the main spring hanger bolster? i am not clear on what i need to do .thanks very much Gordon

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Gordon It's hard to explain You have to cut away the bracket that holds the pedal assembly on the chassis

To get the operating rod down on more of a angle. A R/R bell housing usualy has two sets of holes

for the shaft. You have to turn the fork upside down as the clutch rod can only work in one direction.

wheni figured it out it was not that hard of a job. worked well for a long time Mark

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Gordon It's hard to explain You have to cut away the bracket that holds the pedal assembly on the chassis

To get the operating rod down on more of a angle. A R/R bell housing usualy has two sets of holes

for the shaft. You have to turn the fork upside down as the clutch rod can only work in one direction.

wheni figured it out it was not that hard of a job. worked well for a long time Mark

Like already said it is hard to exsplain but i have one sitting here i did 25 years ago. I even thought about air at one time but backed out on that.

glenn akers

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Like already said it is hard to exsplain but i have one sitting here i did 25 years ago. I even thought about air at one time but backed out on that.

i took the spring hanger slash clutch bracket off,narrowed it, no problem turning arm down in bellhousing,but they are still opperating in opposite directions , i am still confused thanks gordon

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Ok Gordon A road ranger bell housing should have 2 holes for the clutch shaft

1 bottom hole forks facing up operating lever pull back ward you have a push clutch

2 Top hole forks facing down turn throw out bearing 180 pull operating lever back you have a pull clutch

3 The pedal through floor you only have a certain amount of travel.

4 The pedal box on the chasis you should see 2 holes on the operating lever.Use the back one

5 You wil have to play around with the clutch shaft lever to make it short enough to give maximum pull

as you are governed by the set travel length of the pedal.

6 You have to work out the lengths of the operating levers. Shortest gives maximum travel for set distance.

You should have a operating rod about 12" to 15" long. I had to put a curve in mine to clear the bottom of the pedal box.

it never flexed or bent. I use a bar of bright mild steel 12mm dia threaded at both ends for the clevise.

SEE clear as MUD Mark :wacko:

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Any time that you flip the through out brg 180, you also flip the grease fitting. The best time to address this, is when the clutch is still on the bench. You can try to rig some kind of flex hose, or a better choice is just to drill and tap the opposite side for a grease fitting. I've done it both ways, on the bench is much easier.

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No No No. Rob, don't tell me there is an easier way. :angry:

You mean that (remember right hand drive), My clutch pedal which comes/travels about 14" out of the floor (leaving me 17" to place my leg and I'm 6' 2" tall) and then, still in one piece goes almost to the back of the gearbox, over the top and then down the left hand side of the gearbox to the clutch.

This same pedal that needs almost both feet to hold it down at the traffic lights - don't tell me it can be replaced by "a hanging pedal from an R model". :unsure:

I suppose this new arrangement can also be operated by one foot only?

Don't tell me it can be done - simply. I don't want to know :wacko:

Ah...the younger generation :thumb:

I think Rob is right, cable would be just as easy to rig on either side of the bell housing. Use the pedal and cable from an R, and whatever Ducky used for a brake valve. Get them both off the floor and out of the muck.

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Any time that you flip the through out brg 180, you also flip the grease fitting. The best time to address this, is when the clutch is still on the bench. You can try to rig some kind of flex hose, or a better choice is just to drill and tap the opposite side for a grease fitting. I've done it both ways, on the bench is much easier.

You just have to put a 90 degree fitting on top and buy a grease gun hose. they come in many lengths

an tuck it behind the clutch shaft. and run it down to the usual place on the inspection plate.

Ever tried to do that with it still all bolted together? Not a fun Job.

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Gordon if the bell housing don't have the top holes it will still work but the lever will pull fowards.

you will just have to play around with it. As for an air clutch you got to get it right or you will punish the clutch brake.

Seems like you have done a lot of work already so why not find a proper nodal mount bell housing and keep

the clutch arrangement simple. Just my thoughts Mark

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