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Bleeder Screws


Greg Rider

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What part was lost in the translation? I will be happy to make attempt to clarify.

Rob

oh no!..apparently it's worse than we thought-that typhoid fever is nothing to be taken lightly- or-on the other hand, are you perhaps feeling better? You sorta-kinda sound like your old self even!

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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  • 2 months later...

Got 6 of the 8 loose today :banana: !! The top front ones are not moving. I am starting to round off the head but they haven't broke! Didn't use any heat, I just went from 1/4" breaker bar to a 3/8" bar and went SLOW. I think I'm gonna look for one of those bleeder extractor sockets while I'm at work on Monday. May just get a regular extractor socket and put a piece of hard wire in to prevent the crushing effect. Any advice on bleeding the booster? Is it like bleeding the wheel cylinder? I assume engine off is best.

#1 on A-model registry

If I drink because of work, why can't I drink at work?

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Got 6 of the 8 loose today :banana: !! The top front ones are not moving. I am starting to round off the head but they haven't broke! Didn't use any heat, I just went from 1/4" breaker bar to a 3/8" bar and went SLOW. I think I'm gonna look for one of those bleeder extractor sockets while I'm at work on Monday. May just get a regular extractor socket and put a piece of hard wire in to prevent the crushing effect. Any advice on bleeding the booster? Is it like bleeding the wheel cylinder? I assume engine off is best.
The same principle is applied to bleeding the booster as a wheel cylinder. You start bleeding at the master cylinder, then go to the booster, then the wheel cylinders.

This may sound crazy, but when I worked at a garage in the early 70's we were working on the brakes on a 2 ton truck- relined the brakes and rebuilt all the wheel cylinders. We got it all done and all that was left was to bleed the brakes, and we couldn't get a pedal. Bled them again, got a good pedal, let it set a few minutes-pedal would go to the floor. The old timer there said "let me show you boys something". He told us to open ALL the bleeder screws. Then he had us pump the brake pedal until just fluid came out the booster,then closed that bleeder screw. Then to the left front wheel, same thing- right front wheel, same thing. Then did the rear wheels the same way, and no air was in the system. We had a full pedal and it stayed that way.

Just a thought (Paul Van Scott), if nothing else works to get a good pedal.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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Got 6 of the 8 loose today :banana: !! The top front ones are not moving. I am starting to round off the head but they haven't broke! Didn't use any heat, I just went from 1/4" breaker bar to a 3/8" bar and went SLOW. I think I'm gonna look for one of those bleeder extractor sockets while I'm at work on Monday. May just get a regular extractor socket and put a piece of hard wire in to prevent the crushing effect. Any advice on bleeding the booster? Is it like bleeding the wheel cylinder? I assume engine off is best.

Use heat. Get them warm, let them cool, get them warm again, then allow to cool again. Spray with penetrant when they are cooling the last time to where they can be touched without burning skin, then try to loosen. You can also grab with vise grip pliers and while applying twisting force, wrap pliers with hammer. The force and vibration will help to loosen also. I use an air hammer myself but not everyone has that option.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

GOT 'EM!!!!! :thumb: Got the last one tonight with some heatin, beatin, and a Bolt-out socket. I swore that last one was gonna snap. Gonna get new ones on Monday and use anti-seize on 'em.

#1 on A-model registry

If I drink because of work, why can't I drink at work?

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