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Idle surge when setting park brake


E5Farmer

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There was a air recycle  valve on the turbo intake boot on the earlier trucks I Forget the name of it I 'm sure someone here will remember the name of it! It would go into periodic heat mode and would raise the rpm sometimes at stop lights on cold days for what seemed like no reason ! this may be in the mix here to Duno being a deleted unit its anyones guess! In my opinion if performance is not suffering  just live with it!

 

Just something to try!

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50 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Only used for regen when Inlet temps were low?

You would be correct.

When the system is in active regen (not sure if it activates in extended heat mode), the valve recirculates boosted air which causes less scavenging across the piston. Also is a controlled boost leak which makes EGTs higher. 

V

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27 minutes ago, Vmac3 said:

You would be correct.

When the system is in active regen (not sure if it activates in extended heat mode), the valve recirculates boosted air which causes less scavenging across the piston. Also is a controlled boost leak which makes EGTs higher. 

V

From your experience do you think this actually works or is just another expensive gadget Volvo decided to throw on there for a potential money grab? I know the discharge recirculation solenoid valve is usually a problem/leaker. 

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2 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

From your experience do you think this actually works or is just another expensive gadget Volvo decided to throw on there for a potential money grab? I know the discharge recirculation solenoid valve is usually a problem/leaker. 

They had issues with these valves/airlines. They had a bunch or service bulletins to address broken air lines. Back in 2010ish they released a service bulletin to block off the valve if it fails and reprogram the engine ECU. Usually what happens when these things fail is, when a regen is requested the DRV recirculates the boosted air and T1 temps will start to go up and turbo boost pressure will stay low. These failed like everything else that was bolted on these "newer" engines. 

V

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2 minutes ago, Vmac3 said:

They had issues with these valves/airlines. They had a bunch or service bulletins to address broken air lines. Back in 2010ish they released a service bulletin to block off the valve if it fails and reprogram the engine ECU. Usually what happens when these things fail is, when a regen is requested the DRV recirculates the boosted air and T1 temps will start to go up and turbo boost pressure will stay low. These failed like everything else that was bolted on these "newer" engines. 

V

That “failure” sounds like it’s working the way it should be, Interesting/useful information as usual from you. Thanks 

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4 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

They had issues with these valves/airlines. They had a bunch or service bulletins to address broken air lines. Back in 2010ish they released a service bulletin to block off the valve if it fails and reprogram the engine ECU. Usually what happens when these things fail is, when a regen is requested the DRV recirculates the boosted air and T1 temps will start to go up and turbo boost pressure will stay low. These failed like everything else that was bolted on these "newer" engines. 

V

Yup that's why they don't use it anymore more trouble than its worth! I guess!

Edited by fjh
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10 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

You would be correct.

When the system is in active regen (not sure if it activates in extended heat mode), the valve recirculates boosted air which causes less scavenging across the piston. Also is a controlled boost leak which makes EGTs higher. 

V

Ahhhhh, I always wondered how exactly this would make more heat and now that you mention the scavenging it makes a lot of sense!

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3 hours ago, fjh said:

Yup that's why they don't use it anymore more trouble than its worth! I guess!

So now this is all starting to come together after V brought this to sense to me and F said it’s no longer used.  Didn’t some of these MPs have problems with dropping exhaust valves? If so is it safe to say it was the years with the DRV? If that’s correct can we say it was because of the DRV and its less scavenging effect? As we know scavenging helps not only push exhaust gas out but also cool cylinder temps/valves. We know the intake valves always gets cooled with the rush of intake air over it but with a large decrease in scavenging the exhaust valves suffer from any kind of cooling. So over time and many regens later the exhaust valves or seats fail and drop? 

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10 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

So now this is all starting to come together after V brought this to sense to me and F said it’s no longer used.  Didn’t some of these MPs have problems with dropping exhaust valves? If so is it safe to say it was the years with the DRV? If that’s correct can we say it was because of the DRV and its less scavenging effect? As we know scavenging helps not only push exhaust gas out but also cool cylinder temps/valves. We know the intake valves always gets cooled with the rush of intake air over it but with a large decrease in scavenging the exhaust valves suffer from any kind of cooling. So over time and many regens later the exhaust valves or seats fail and drop? 

Not sure valves dropping had anything to do  with it engines with or with out have dropped valves i think they discovered  it was a useless item and there were better ways after all most are equipped with intake heater like many other things  its on a need to know basis  its for them to know and us to find out if we dig deep enough! They aint going to tell ya if they are having a mortality rate on something!  that you discover on your own or when they send out a vague service bulletin delete like they have with this or you see with your own eyes with repeat failures ! And like everything else the programing changes from day to day! The bull gear and injector cup  feasco is a perfect example ! in the real Mack days The fuel line and cam deboggle  of years past they don't like to admit they have problems they like to call them ISSUES! Most of the time things get sorted out The injector cup deal is half better because they got rid of 3 dancing injectors If they had got rid of all 6 and went proper common rail Instead of the dollar store injection they would likley have a none issue! That said everything evolves poor planning on the injector cup front there! From what I have heard Volvo has had issues with cups long before it got involved with Mack even before EGR ! So they compounded the issue when raising injection pressures by letting pluggers remain .,same  single wimpy bolt holding down the injector when two  likley should have been used just a bunch of over sights! trying to keep costs down! Roll the dice We already have this settup lets do this to it It should work! MAYBE! Again Just an opinion Everyone has their own thoughts on these matters !Thinking out loud! 

Oh well to much time on my hands 

just rambling!

woulda shoulda! coulda!

Edited by fjh
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On 3/10/2022 at 5:35 PM, Onyx610 said:

It’s controlled by air, I believe there is a ribbon wire in the tscm that is know for problems and gets replaced. 

Interesting.  So dumb question, What part should I look into replacing or testing?  The TSCM?  I apologize I’m not much of a mechanic but thank you for the help.  

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52 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

no need to apologize.. This what we are here for.. I wont be much help at all because I have been away from M-Drives for 4 years, and the hell of it is..... I was sent to school for M-Drive and became a 'Master Tech' at Mack, but I don't know sh!t about them... aint that funny.... jojo

Book learning is only a small part of it and if you don't have the opportunity to get involved in the actual repair your like me a sidewalk superintendent! The ribbon tape requires you to pull the floor out and the lid off the trans And as Joe mentioned the Guys listed above are the ones you need to listen too! While there you need to be watching for stuff ! There is a stop plate that commonly comes loose/cracks/ breaks ! Need to watch for this !I highly recommend taking it to a reputable dealer for repair! 

 

Just sayin

Edited by fjh
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so true 'F'...  I did a few clutches and lots of programming, but nothing internally. i have had the shift covers off a few times and saw the importance of lifting it 'Straight up'  because of the tone wheels for the speed sensors...  very delicate..  well, I will just watch and hopefully learn from this thread...  :) Jojo

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44 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

so true 'F'...  I did a few clutches and lots of programming, but nothing internally. i have had the shift covers off a few times and saw the importance of lifting it 'Straight up'  because of the tone wheels for the speed sensors...  very delicate..  well, I will just watch and hopefully learn from this thread...  :) Jojo

Well I was hoping it to be something I could do myself.  After catching up on the thread it looks like I might have to bring it in.  

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26 minutes ago, E5Farmer said:

Well I was hoping it to be something I could do myself.  After catching up on the thread it looks like I might have to bring it in.  

I personally wouldn’t even attempt it, I believe the trans has to come out. I’d be curious as to what this issue is. 

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13 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

And like Joey said we are here to help to the best of our ability. We all started somewhere….nobody knows everything and a lot of us learn so much from all skill levels! 

Yup agree 100 percent  As a group here if we don't know it and you can't make some sense  of what we do know ! There are Guys here that came talk people thru most anything However this trans  has quirks! in my opinion ! Take it to a dealer  Chances are its out of your skill set and you may cost your self more than tackling it your self! They SHOULD have the where with all to repair it! There Is always a slim chance its illusive! 

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