mowerman Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 ya mine is the same way....it sat almost a year one time and still had 75 pounds ,and i actually started it with the 75 and of coarse eather...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 actually now,,,,,after a month or so it drops to around 90,,,but as i mentioned parts were all changed a long time ago...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 hey larry are you saying the electric valves are no longer available????????? i also have the air activated valve push start ...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D2Denny Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 h67st Hope you get your H done by next spring and bring it to the BVH spring show. I'm looking forward to seeing it. I thoroughly enjoyed driving my H. It ran and drove well, the original seat was quite comfortable and with the vent open in front, not at all uncomfortable in warm weather while underway. Not so sure on the driving experience in this G. Its more like large Spam can on a truck frame. Reminds me of the White 1550's of the 60's and 70's. No creature comforts at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 On 10/30/2021 at 5:26 PM, mowerman said: hey larry are you saying the electric valves are no longer available????????? i also have the air activated valve push start ...bob I have a tank with electric valve but when I got the alum tank it had air valve and getting that big valve unscrewed from the alum tank wasn't happening....so I left it alone. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 Oooooooooooo gotcha … bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D2Denny Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 Got a question. Have to pull the radiator on the G and have the core replaced. It only lasted 60 years darn... The cab only tilts about 40 degrees so it isn't coming out from above. Does it come out the front after removing the bumper and the grill. Can anybody confirm this? Thx Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Sorry I can’t help you without looking at it but that’s what it sounds like possibly just remove the grill and pull it up and out good luck partner. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Harbison Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 On 11/5/2021 at 6:09 PM, D2Denny said: Got a question. Have to pull the radiator on the G and have the core replaced. It only lasted 60 years darn... The cab only tilts about 40 degrees so it isn't coming out from above. Does it come out the front after removing the bumper and the grill. Can anybody confirm this? Thx Dennis Those cabs will tilt a full 90 degrees,but id make sure all is working properly before id try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 40 minutes ago, Mike Harbison said: Those cabs will tilt a full 90 degrees,but id make sure all is working properly before id try it. I would also add a "come along" type winch from the bottom rear of the cab to a crossmember so you can go gently after it overcenters and not rely entirely on the hydraulic system. 1 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h67st Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 What you're saying about the one-way jack sounds right...you'd have no way to pull the cab back past the "over center" point if you did take it 90 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 I did that once I put a big chain on the back of the cab to my pickup to hold it while replacing a broken torsion bar I had on my F model.. bob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Harbison Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 16 hours ago, D2Denny said: Radiator only comes out the front. Able to remove it by myself using a pair of ratchet straps. Will need a few other bodies to get it back in though. Will need an upper water inlet neck before going back in. Got an inquiry into Watts on this. Any other suggestions?? 2 1/4" hose inlet, 45 degree angle, 3 1/2 inch bolt spacing I've got 2 G radiators out,ill see if either has the same piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) Possible to fabricate a new one if need be. Some 1/4" plate and a piece of radius tubing. I had to make a thermostat housing for my Galaxie with the blower on it. No one makes one the way I needed it to fit. Edited November 13, 2021 by Freightrain 1 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Oooooooooooo my god your like macgiver … I know that’s not spelled right and no I would not use that gooseneck either… nice going bud… bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D2Denny Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 Larry. Making one is my plan B. Already found the proper size and degree aluminum elbow with a bead rolled in one end. but perhaps Mike will have one. Thanks for looking Mike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 On 11/13/2021 at 9:54 AM, mowerman said: Oooooooooooo my god your like macgiver … I know that’s not spelled right and no I would not use that gooseneck either… nice going bud… bob Bob you should know that in one of my circle of friends that is my name because I can make anything work. Lol. About 10 yrs ago(when I still had dark hair), while on a business trip to Mexico.... I'm in the plant office and a couple workers in the corner point at me and mumble something. Come to find out, while I was dressed in my usual attire of jeans, boots and leather coat they said I looked like Chuck Norris. Lol. Now since I'm old and grey my gf says I look like Sam Elliot when I roll up on my harley(like in the movie Roadhouse). Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 On the early engine and that maybe old enough to have one the oil passage from the cam brg boss in the block up to the top of the head supping oil to the heads for the rockers was a cast passage about 3/4 of a inche in diameter.This casting would crack sometines and leak oil out and the rockers would get dry.I have seen this done with the out side oil supply to oil the rockers.The newer 673 engines had a different casting and i think it was steel pipe coming up. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 Glenn,,, I am currently building my first ENDT 673... Ive built a few E-7's and a bunch of E-tech's of all series'... I will use this post for info, because if I remember right, the push rods do not have oil holes in the ends.. so it makes sense to me, if someone would add an oiling system to keep the top lubed with an extra flow of oil... I may add this to the engine... was there any issues with too much oil being delivered to the heads, and it pushed out of the breather? Thanks Glenn, Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 Not that i remember. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 It must have had a smaller orifice in the valve cover to maintain oil pressure in the engine???? Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 The oil on the valve cover goes thru it and connects to the rocker arms inside.If you remember a Y block ford had the came problems and a out side oil supply was done the same way.The factory oil supply to the top of the block could be seen by removing the side plates on the engine. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 10 hours ago, theakerstwo said: The oil on the valve cover goes thru it and connects to the rocker arms inside.If you remember a Y block ford had the came problems and a out side oil supply was done the same way.The factory oil supply to the top of the block could be seen by removing the side plates on the engine. OK, I understand.. A slow mind in the morning?? 1 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D2Denny Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 Thanks Glenn. That explains it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 The factory procedure for this repair was to remove heads and they supplied a thin metal tube that you would push down in the oil hole in top of block till it bottom out and a tool was inserted into the tube to roll it out and that would seal the crack in the cast oil galley.I was involved in maybe two jobs like that. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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