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05 mack cxn e7 EGR


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I am working on my 05 cxn E7 looking into deleting the egr, now i realize i need to leave the egr valve connected electrically to not produce a fault code. now secondly i have a warped exhaust manifold with broken studs, so couldnt i just use a non egr e7 manifold and tie up the egr valve and leave it connected? has anyone ever done this and where did you source the parts any tips for correction of these issues is appreciated! 

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an e-7 or e-tech manifold will bolt right on, i'm not sure how well it will run because youre turbo is connected to the computer., as well as the output temp sensor in the CAC pipe and the EGR valve and the cross over pipe with the 2 probes in it and the EECU is different, the VGT module is also on-line, and so on... and I believe the cam has different exhaust lobes to accommodate the EGR system. check cam part numbers against an ASET-I to see if the part numbers are the same.  I have only ever built stock mack engines without any funny business...  I see so many posts about doing mod's, that I wish I knew more about mod's... BTW,,, how is the exh. man. warped?   it's 3 pieces and i cant imagine it being warped...  anyway, I expect to learn something on this thread... Jojo

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Build a plate to install under the egr valve ! How ever after several miles /KMs the egr code will come up due to lack of egr flow! On the older engines this didn't effect performance ! I am not sure on the later models if a derate will occur ! the one I did was an 03 - 04 the guy put 1.5 plus Kms on it  with out issue!

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joey mack im assuming it is warped. I am a auto and light diesel tech and this is my personal truck I just started working on, so when i say warped i am basing tha off my light duty diesel and auto experience, it has multiple broken exh. man. studs. 

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gotcha.... the broken studs are common especially if they werent installed and torqued correctly.  You have a giant turbo hangin on 4 studs and the 12 exh. studs have to take up the slack...  the center section of the exhaust manifold can crack. you will need to take it off and look at the back side and in the pocket, since you have an egr engine.  what you have is a ASET C.E.G.R..... ( Application Specific Engine Technology,,, Cooled E.G.R.)  I am very familiar with this engine and it's components.  There is a bunch of us that can guide you...  stay in touch, Jojo

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thanks for the advice! once I get to removing the manifolds I will touch base with you on my findings! a delete is just a thought I had. before spending the 2 grand on a EGR valve. is it common or have you ever seen a valve head break on one of these engines and land in the cooler? btw we are fairly close as well i'm just inside of south Carolina just above Spartanburg.

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EGR issue are common in my experience.. When I see soot outside the EGR shaft, it's time....  Be very careful handeling the cross over pipe with the 2 sensors in it... I just bought one last month from Charlotte Mack.  it was $1600.00...  When you remove the fuel lines number them.  Mack say's one time use....  I dress the ends with 180 emery cloth between my fingers, and i usually succeed.  sometimes they will leak, but at $150.00 each,, its worth a try...  #3 is the hardest one to replace on a complete engine, so, if you think you should... buy one for that hole... they are also installed using a torque conditioning procedure...  no biggie... and the new studs need to be doped before installation. The bottom studs are live and can leak oil, and if you go in too far you can hit the pushrod..  use Mack studs for this part of the repair....  as you need advice,  ask.... 👍 Jojo

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thanks for the advice! once I get to removing the manifolds I will touch base with you on my findings! a delete is just a thought I had. before spending the 2 grand on a EGR valve. is it common or have you ever seen a valve head break on one of these engines and land in the cooler? btw we are fairly close as well i'm just inside of south Carolina just above Spartanburg. also is there a special way to bleed all the air out of this coolant system i have a had a rough time bleeding the air out after i changed the egr valve/ flushed the cooler and a new e-up pump, it holds air and randomly pushes coolant out of the over flow? any thoughts on this ?

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when I dont have a pressure tank that fill's the system, I remove the highest pipe plug from the water manifold assembly and leav it loose, (1 turn in)... you will hear it whine as the air leaves... this is my own way of doing it,   more ides will be posted...   Too bad I'm so busy, i would jump in my service truck and come visit...  Jojo

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