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11:00R 24, Tire Wobble


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I finally bit the bullet and bought 4 new 11:00R x 24 Sumitomo's for my B model.  On my way home I could see in my mirror the right side had a fare amount of "wobble" and my son who was following me confirmed.  Took it back to dealer and his HD truck guy spends a lot of time on it and it is not much better.  I jack it up and say it is at least 3/4" off.

Now tire guy says.."you know you have to put at least 100 miles on them before they "seat in".  Anyone have an opinion on this.  Mechanic also says I have wrong spacer on it but I say..had no problem with old caps??? Same spacer!  So  what's changed?

 

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I suppose anything is possible ….. these days it’s hard enough to get kids to do anything,,,,,, never mind skilled labor And yes I consider anyone working with split rims and  spoke wheels  skilled …  like somebody said anyone with gray hair could probably do it ha ha… bob

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9 hours ago, 70mackMB said:

Where did he graduate (top of his class) from New England Tractor Trailer School?

Bob had he ever seen a Dayton wheel before?    .....Hippy 

Yes Hippy I'm sure  he has.  This shop advertises .."light commercial" but everytime I'm in there (I've bought 12 tires from him in last two months) I always see a 24", 22.5 or a 24.5 leaning against the building and plenty of skid steer/ back hoe rubber.

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19 minutes ago, mowerman said:

I suppose anything is possible ….. these days it’s hard enough to get kids to do anything,,,,,, never mind skilled labor And yes I consider anyone working with split rims and  spoke wheels  skilled …  like somebody said anyone with gray hair could probably do it ha ha… bob

10-4 Bob on the gray hair!

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22 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Anyone have an opinion on this. 

Yep I do... The Tyre Fitter has NFI what He's doing..:idunno:

 

Go to the 11.00 mark here & Watch..

 

 

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"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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Hayseed posted a video that pretty much shows you how to get a Dayton to turn as true as disc type wheels.  If that was followed , the only way it won't run "true"  is if the spider is missing the flange where the inside rim rides on.  (they sometimes get damaged from a wheel spun that wasn't tight for some reason)  That part he's doing with the hammer (checking run out)  some guys refer to as indicating .  I think you were just unlucky enough to get a lousy guy putting your tires on.  I'd suspect going back there, you'll just get blown off with anyone's advise from here (lol)  

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It shouldn't really matter if the inside of the spider is worn or spacer is a tad bit out of shape the outside wheel should be able to run true pretty easily 

I haven't had many dramas over the years, if any trying to get them run true 

Some times I gotta back the nuts off to pull it up a bit on one side, but all in all I  never felt it was to difficult 

 

Paul

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another skill that has been forgotten. budd wheels easy. daytons take time to be done right. no way can a dayton be done with air gun only. 3/4drive ratchet  and block of wood (or spray can works-it's high enough). criss-cross by hand the tightening sequence . have seen tire casing that were out of round also. on a good day have been able to get the daytons 1/8th  true. using a tall spray can, the spinning tire will show how far out of true the wheel is. good hand tight then finally tightening with air gun. 

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Thx guys for the comments.   Never heard the "no impact gun" rule as stated in Swishy's post. this guy was  using a 1" gun!  And I've always been of the belief when you tighten a "high" clamp you then spin as close as you can to the opposite clamp.  This guy would tighten a "high" clamp and then proceed to go around to the next spoke.  My fault-I'm saying "his job" and he is correcting his mistake not on my dime.  I should have jumped in and said..."what about  trying this".....

Hayseed...."couple of Bee's Dicks"??  More like .".Elephant Dick"🤣

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This has been an interesting thread. I have VERY little experience with daytons, the only ones i have had were 17.5" with he three spokes that branched to two nuts each with a bridge. I HATED them. Never had any problem getting them to run true but had nothing but problems getting the bridge to come off. However, I always put them on with an impact and used the impact to true them up so that may have contributed to the bridges getting so wedged on there that it was a real bear to get them off. 

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1 minute ago, Licensed to kill said:

This has been an interesting thread. I have VERY little experience with daytons, the only ones i have had were 17.5" with he three spokes that branched to two nuts each with a bridge. I HATED them. Never had any problem getting them to run true but had nothing but problems getting the bridge to come off. However, I always put them on with an impact and used the impact to true them up so that may have contributed to the bridges getting so wedged on there that it was a real bear to get them off. 

Webb wheel's very good hub's

Ed

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