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2005 CX 470 ETEC pushing coolant


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15 hours ago, fjh said:

If you measured  where Joe said to measure there you WANT to See 24 or better for a 470 hp engine Just sayin! You can MAYBE get away with less on a lower HP engine but not highly recommended  ! And 002 thou definitely wont cut it! .002 between liners is OK under the same head As long as the lowest is 24  or better!

ALSO note !  Have you pulled the injectors? Were there any with carbon on the bottom of the bore where they seal ? We have ran across them where the injector COULD NOT be removed from the head  even with a porta power they were so clogged with carbon! And there are instances where the compression can get by the injector sleeve ! Seen it happen.

 

Just sayin

0024” the lowest on a head and 0028” the highest on the other head though 002” between liners. But yes there is a injector with a heavy carbon build up I haven’t seen before though came out with minimum fuss, but this wouldn’t create a pressure build up through the water galleries though.

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A bit late to this, missed up till now

Last year I had a similar on another make and model, would only pressurize after it was warm and only when I backed off to idle after running 

Thought it was pretty much everything that has been mentioned here and tried most of the same 

Turned out be none of it, it was the heater tap, I  could pressurize the cooling system and it never leaked when hot or cold

I think the seal around the heater tap shaft was letting air in as the water must of been under a slight vacuum while slowing down to idle at say a inter section

This big gulp of air then got a bit trapped around the temp sender (making the sender sit in steam and reading over heating) before moving to the radiator and expanding forcing the coolant out and over flowing 

 

I never had enough brains to work all this out, lucky for me that some one younger and better thinking than me told me about such a problem 

Dunno if this is any help or not

 

Paul

 

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1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

A bit late to this, missed up till now

Last year I had a similar on another make and model, would only pressurize after it was warm and only when I backed off to idle after running 

Thought it was pretty much everything that has been mentioned here and tried most of the same 

Turned out be none of it, it was the heater tap, I  could pressurize the cooling system and it never leaked when hot or cold

I think the seal around the heater tap shaft was letting air in as the water must of been under a slight vacuum while slowing down to idle at say a inter section

This big gulp of air then got a bit trapped around the temp sender (making the sender sit in steam and reading over heating) before moving to the radiator and expanding forcing the coolant out and over flowing 

 

I never had enough brains to work all this out, lucky for me that some one younger and better thinking than me told me about such a problem 

Dunno if this is any help or not

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, mine has another tap just out of the block which I turned off.

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Was thinking if you hadn't pulled the motor apart you could maybe put the coolant system under vacuum with a tap and see if it holds vacuum 

 

I realize it's to late now but just for future reference for someone else might read this one day it could be of some help maybe

 

Paul

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  • 1 month later...

I didnt look back at all posts, however,,,  when you had the heads off, did you bolt the liners down and rotate the engine and check the liners for cracks,? the first 4 inches is where the water jacket is.  Best of luck to you, jojo

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I also didn't read back thru the whole thing how ever your  compressor could be suspect if you havent checked  it yet! We just had a customer with a coolant push problem on a  3406E the compressor was over heating  warped the head ! I thought back to a Mack issue their was a TSB years back for compressor elbow being obstructed by casting sand! The Cat The (Coolant line )  had collapsed and it over heated it !  You might check this as well!

 

Just sayin

Edited by fjh
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yes sir.. the 'Stand' pipe update for the compressor head.  we removed the steel tube and nut's with the rubber ferrels in them and replaced it with a #6 JIC stand pipe that went about 3" into the block, in the case casting sand was still not flushed out, the end of the pipe would be above the sand sediment.   and we made a short hose to the compressor and replaced the fitting in the compressor head...   jojo

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  • 6 months later...

Hey Guys sorry its been so long but had to rebuild a C15 and put it back into my cab over Kenworth so I could keep working. Thanks JoJo and FJH but i had some time this weekend to go back to the 470 and as I was turning it over there was pitting from electrolysis showing so JOJO you were correct. They all need pulling and replacing but I think im going to get rid of the old girl and let someone else deal with the it. Thanks everyone once again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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