Popular Post oldspwr Posted September 28, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 28, 2021 Then I started cleaning the rubber pieces. I started with Simple Green but there was some dirt on them that just didn’t want to come off. I would up having to use lacquer thinner and that did the trick... The metal pieces had seen better days also... So I decided to sand blast everything, including the (3) sections of metal, the support bracket and the piece the heater hoses connect to for the heater core (more on that later...) I decided to have them powder coated and a week later I got them back (except the long section, that had to be redone...) There were a few Ideal SS clamps that were used along with some thinner mismatched clamps. I had bought a box of new Ideal SS clamps off of eBay for my Dad’s truck so I had enough left over to make them all match. These clamps used to be made in the USA but unfortunately they’re not anymore. The existing ones had some overspray on them but they clean up really will with a fine wire brush on an electric motor followed with some buffing... Once all the clamps were cleaned I reinstalled everything... That’s it for now! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldspwr Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 When I last left off I had just finished working on the air inlet piping from the air filter to the turbo. I had decided not to install the drag link or pitman arm until the truck was just about ready to be driven because without these items it allowed me to get closer to the motor. But since I was 99% done with everything I decided to install them. After I installed them I realized the drag link between the steering arm and the pitman are was not even close to being parallel with the frame. The pitman arm still had to get pressed on at least another 1/4" but even with that I wasn’t close. I crawled under my Dad’s 361 and that drag link was fairly parallel to the frame but it also had a ‘job’ in it. At that point I remembered that Russ had given me a 1/2" spacer with a Sheppard box. I did have some room between the steering box and the radiator so I decided to install it. Instead of removing everything, I cut the spacer in half and then installed one half at a time. In the meantime I stopped to check out the progress on Paul Polcha’s 761 and his setup looked very similar to mine so I was comfortable with installed the pitman arm on the rest of the way... After I was done moving the steering box, connecting the drag link to the steering arm and adjusting the ball and socket spring end, I slid the steering shaft on. Once I did I realized that all the U joints were very tired and the bearing at the bottom of the fire wall was tight. For some reason I completely forgot about these. Fortunately Napa has the U joints in stock (part number UP861 or Neapco 1-1475)... After I disassembled the shaft I realized the u joint cups were spinning in one of the joint ends (the yellow one) but I was able a better one in my collection... The other bearing I mentioned is located at the bottom of the firewall where the steering shaft goes through. These are the parts that hold it in place... This bearing is held in place with a lock collar and set screw, just like the shafts on my snowmobiles. This bearing is a Fafnir RA100RRB and it comes with the lock collar... I wound up sandblasting all the parts, giving them a coat of black paint and reassembled everything. More to follow... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post oldspwr Posted October 1, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 1, 2021 Once I was done with the steering shaft I moved on to the batteries. Russ had (4) 6V batteries in the truck, (2) in series for 12V and then those (2) in parallel. The pass side batteries were still good but the driver’s side wouldn’t hold a charge. They were probably pretty tired so I decided to replace them with (2) 12V batteries in parallel. When I removed the old batteries I cut a piece of mudflap to line the bottom of the battery box... I also upgraded to 3/8” stud terminal batteries instead of the regular battery terminals. This way the 360, 361 and 761 would all be the same. This truck already had good 2/0 cables so I picked up some new 3/8” hole ends at Napa and a pair of new batteries. I also added a permanent pigtail to connect a Battery Tender... After all was said and done I was finally able to start the truck. Instead of trying to start it in the garage, I had the kids pull me out of the garage with the winch on the 4 wheeler. Maddie ran the winch and Tommy watched both sides. I really had it shoe horned in the garage over the winer... The truck was finally seeing daylight after an extended stay in the garage! Once it was outside the truck started fairly easy after sitting all this time. But I quickly realized that something was up with the oil pressure... For some reason the oil pressure gauge was pegged way past 100. I put the truck back in the garage and tried to figure out what was going on. After much research and a handful of texts to Stan I realized the oil pump that I got from Dave M. was off a NH290 CPL #217. It turns out the 290 had piston coolers and the NHCT270 did not. In the later oil pump, they set the oil pressure up for 120 psi and then further reduced it in the oil cooler with another regulator/plunger/relief valve. After much thought I decided to remove the spring and valve from the original pump and compare it to the new pump. Of course this meant removing the new oil pump from the engine. This was a bit of a chore since I didn’t want to disconnect or drain the power steering lines. But I was able to slide the power steering pump back and pull the oil pump out. For reference, here is a comparison of the two relief valve/plungers and springs... It also turns out that the original retainer cup is 1/4” deeper than the new one. So I decided to use the new plunger (since the reliefs and landings are cut differently) with the original spring and retaining cup. Although the new spring is 1” longer the coil stock is smaller in diameter so there is less pressure. At that point I reinstalled everything and started the truck back up. This time I had 78 psi at cold start up... Much better... So the good news is that I was able to take it for a short ride around my folks neighborhood and the power steering seemed to work very well. The bad news is that it started raining so I pulled it back in the garage. That’s it for now... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Winner winner chicken dinner, you've done well Thats a pretty high standard you set, should be proud of the results Thanks for sharing with us Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 Haha I would have been afraid to change those oil pump parts I would have just changed the pump lol also CB radio I still run one most days I travel 530 miles and hear absolutely nothing… bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 Oooooooooooo wait I was thinking you hadda keep dropping the pan I guess Cummins is on the side correct????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldspwr Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Thanks for everyones comments, I appreciate them!!! When we last left off I resolved the oil pressure issue I had. One of the things I noticed with this truck was that it was very difficult to drive smoothly. In other words when leaving from a dead stop, it seemed as if you either gave it too much throttle or not enough, and when you had it moving it was surging. I met Dave Crump at Macungie and he explained that my problem was common to the earlier Cummins PT pumps. This was the pump that was originally on the engine... After a few more discussions I sent him my PT pump and he wound up sending me back a later AFC style pump. He set it up for an NH280 which was the highest horsepower non piston cooled Cummins (I believe...) And this is the later style pump he sent me... To install the newer pump I had to pipe in an additional fuel return line and use a short extension to feed the fuel line that runs to the rear of the block. I also had to relocate the air intake that went from the air intake manifold to the air compressor since it now interfered with the tach drive cable. While waiting to get the pump back I also replaced all the fuel lines with new push to lock lines... And I also drained the fuel tanks and cleaned the fittings and valves... Once all of the lines were on as well as the new pump, I filled and reinstalled a new fuel filter and topped off the injection pump. I really struggled with getting the truck to run and had no throttle response as well. Turns out I still had a ton of air in the system. To help bleed all the air out, I took an old fuel cap that had a busted lead plug in it, drilled and tapped if to 1/4" NPT and installed an air compressor fitting. I then removed the pipe plug from the top of the PT pump and used a valve I put together to air the trucks up... More to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post oldspwr Posted October 12, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 12, 2021 Then I cracked the valve, just enough to apply a few PSI if air pressure to the tank. Once the fuel started running out of the top of the PT pump, I shut the air off and reinstalled the pipe plug. The truck then started right up with no issues! Once I was confident my air bound issue was solved, I took the truck for another few test rides and realized I had another problem. At idle or just off idle the truck was very difficult to steer, as if the steering was bound or the power steering wasn’t working. At first I thought 500 rpm was too low of idle setting so I made a tool to adjust the idle with a brass fitting and an old screwdriver. In the meantime a friend of mine also have me the screwdriver tool he made years ago... I turned the idle up to 650 and it didn’t help at all. After talking to Stan A was well as the guys on the JustOldTrucks message board (especially Tony B.), I realized my issue may be the power steering pump. If you remember correctly I had bought a pump off of eBay to replace the original one I had. The only difference between the 2 was that the new one was rated at 1250psi and the original one was rated at 1500psi. At that time all I thought I had to do was replace the spring in the valve to increase the pressure from 1250 to 1500. So at that point I thought I had either a pressure or flow problem... I know this part will get in the weeds a bit, but I figured I would share it here just in case it might help someone else. For reference, the correct part number for the pump was V20F 1P8P 38C 6F 11, where the 8 means in ‘1P8P’ means 8gpm at 1200rpm. That correlates to 3.33gpm at 500rpm (idle). According to Sheppard’s literature, the minimum flow for their 592 steering box is 5.7gpm. But more than likely, the flow ratings given in the Sheppard specs are for the flow control valve setting not the minimum pump output at idle. At this point I started doing some research on what Vickers pumps were used on other Brockways. A few guys on FB went out of their way to get the numbers off of their pumps and I was able to put this list together... V20F 1P8P 3C 6F 11 - This appears to be the correct number for a pump on an 855 Cummins. V20F 1P9P 3C 6F 11L - This appears to be the correct number for a pump on a 671 Detroit. Left hand So it looks like the Detroit has one more gpm at 1200 rpm (8 verses 9) and is left hand rotation. Regardless, Joe D had a parts 671 Detroit motor and let me borrow the pump off of it. I removed the valve and spring from this pump and cleaned it up. At that point it dawned on me that when I swapped the valve over from the pump I bought on eBay, I used the wrong valve body. The valve body and the orifice are slightly different. In fact the 1500psi valve has ‘15’ penciled on it with a scribe. So in reality I only had 1250psi of pressure when I needed 1500psi... I was able to remove the pump from the back of the oil pump without disconnecting the lines. I was also able to remove and replace the flow control valve and spring without losing too much oil. A half hour later I was able to drive the truck out of the garage, and easily turn the steering wheel with only one hand!!! The following weekend Russ called and asked if he could stop by and visit. Once I hung up the phone I pulled the truck out of the garage and warmed it up. Right after Russ showed up we went for short ride around Daleville... I did take the truck to our Harford show and put a few miles on it driving it locally. Tommy and I also took it for a nice ride, right before the snow we got last week... And that wraps things up for now!!! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phase 1 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 On 10/1/2021 at 10:41 AM, oldspwr said: When I last left off I had just finished working on the air inlet piping from the air filter to the turbo. I had decided not to install the drag link or pitman arm until the truck was just about ready to be driven because without these items it allowed me to get closer to the motor. But since I was 99% done with everything I decided to install them. After I installed them I realized the drag link between the steering arm and the pitman are was not even close to being parallel with the frame. The pitman arm still had to get pressed on at least another 1/4" but even with that I wasn’t close. I crawled under my Dad’s 361 and that drag link was fairly parallel to the frame but it also had a ‘job’ in it. At that point I remembered that Russ had given me a 1/2" spacer with a Sheppard box. I did have some room between the steering box and the radiator so I decided to install it. Instead of removing everything, I cut the spacer in half and then installed one half at a time. In the meantime I stopped to check out the progress on Paul Polcha’s 761 and his setup looked very similar to mine so I was comfortable with installed the pitman arm on the rest of the way... After I was done moving the steering box, connecting the drag link to the steering arm and adjusting the ball and socket spring end, I slid the steering shaft on. Once I did I realized that all the U joints were very tired and the bearing at the bottom of the fire wall was tight. For some reason I completely forgot about these. Fortunately Napa has the U joints in stock (part number UP861 or Neapco 1-1475)... After I disassembled the shaft I realized the u joint cups were spinning in one of the joint ends (the yellow one) but I was able a better one in my collection... The other bearing I mentioned is located at the bottom of the firewall where the steering shaft goes through. These are the parts that hold it in place... This bearing is held in place with a lock collar and set screw, just like the shafts on my snowmobiles. This bearing is a Fafnir RA100RRB and it comes with the lock collar... I wound up sandblasting all the parts, giving them a coat of black paint and reassembled everything. More to follow... The lock collar should be tightened in the direction of rotation. But the steering shaft rotates both ways! So how do you tighten it? At the RPMs of a steering shaft it probably doesn't matter! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldspwr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 The lock ring just holds the inner race of the bearing in place. There is a set screw that tightens up against the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Man you been busy… nice work thanks for sharing.. cool video.. bob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 8 hours ago, oldspwr said: The lock ring just holds the inner race of the bearing in place. There is a set screw that tightens up against the shaft. I know on the round hay baler last year I re raced the rollers and the new bearings turned up and the collar was almost egg shaped on the inside, the bearing had a similar egg shaped shoulder and depending which way the bearing was going to rotate I was meant to rotate the collar the opposite way and lock it to the shaft Well it all got to much for my brain so I just center punched the shaft and loctited them on there I'm not sure when bearing design changed from 2 grub screws to this collar business to hold the bearing in place but to my way of thinking it has made the show a lot more unreliable Great work on the truck How soon to the end of Brockway using their own cab was this truck, I know little about Brockways so have no idea of dates at all Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phase 1 Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) 15 hours ago, oldspwr said: The lock ring just holds the inner race of the bearing in place. There is a set screw that tightens up against the shaft. If the lock ring is not tightened in the correct direction, the inner race can back off leaving it loose on the shaft. Of course, that cannot be done when the shaft turns both ways. There are bearings with an extended race that have 2 set screws in the race that would work in an application of turning both ways. On a steering shaft I don't think the eccentric type will be a problem. Edited October 14, 2021 by Phase 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 So whats the reason behind this style of collar ?? Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phase 1 Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 From what I have found, the lock collar type costs more and takes longer to assemble in production, but it is stronger. The one piece assembly will move out of place easier. Plus it is said that when the screws are tightened in the one piece, they will jack the race out of round. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldspwr Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 On 10/13/2021 at 3:10 PM, mrsmackpaul said: How soon to the end of Brockway using their own cab was this truck, I know little about Brockways so have no idea of dates at all Paul I will follow up a little later on Brockway cabs, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 Tom, A topic on Brockway cabs will be interesting.. When did the Brockway design engineering department combine with the Mack one??? I know Brockway used the F model cab long before they used the R model cab.. And Mack only used the Huskiteer cab in Australia.. Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 From what I remember it was around late 1975 … I think brockway looked real badass with both cabs… I remember de Francisco produce Salem mass hadda lot of the newer cab brockways they were real nice … I do remember they were very loud I think they were Detroit’s not sure too many years ago .. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpgeneration Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 17 hours ago, mowerman said: From what I remember it was around late 1975 … I think brockway looked real badass with both cabs… I remember de Francisco produce Salem mass hadda lot of the newer cab brockways they were real nice … I do remember they were very loud I think they were Detroit’s not sure too many years ago .. bob 318 Detroits with Riker mufflers if you could call them mufflers, you could see right thru them..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 haha,,,,ok i guess you remember them...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 i moved west in 1980 i dont know what thier running these days,,,,according to google thier still there...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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