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I'm looking at an RD685S as a parts truck for my B-61 projects. A pretty big draw for me is that it has 4 brand new 10.00 20 drive tires and the other 4 are around 80%. I forgot to look if they are radial or biasply  but will check that out. I WAS going to go to 11R22.5's simply because 10.00 20's are so hard to find but I like the looks of the 20" rims much better than  the 22.5 rims. The 22.5's just don't look right, or, at least don't have the look I WANT. So, my question is, if these tires ARE bias like i suspect should that matter on the drives for a truck that will only be used to pull my holiday trailer?. If so why? and since I do NOT want bias steers, I would still go with 22.5's on the steering axle and wondering if that might look goofy or if it would even be noticeable. I know you are not supposed to run bias and radial mix but I guess another question would be what would be the harm running bias drives with radial steers. With any luck those drives will be radials but I'm  t betting on it. BTW, I'm talking Dayton rims here. 

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I'd have no issues running 10/20 on rear even if there bias ply for your application. Good plan though to by a good set of radial steers. Your tires will probably dry rot before they wear out so spending a bunch of money is not worth it. 

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I bought 6 new Toyo 22.5s for my truck 20 yrs ago.  I replaced the steers a few years ago just because they were about 16 yrs old and I was concerned.  They weren't dry rotted, but just "old".  Im still running the rears even though they are 20 yrs old(also not dry rotted).  It cost $1800 20 yrs ago for 6 tires/rims.  The fronts cost me almost $900 to replace.  Sad fact you will never wear them out when only using the truck as a toy.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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2 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I bought 6 new Toyo 22.5s for my truck 20 yrs ago.  I replaced the steers a few years ago just because they were about 16 yrs old and I was concerned.  They weren't dry rotted, but just "old".  Im still running the rears even though they are 20 yrs old(also not dry rotted).  It cost $1800 20 yrs ago for 6 tires/rims.  The fronts cost me almost $900 to replace.  Sad fact you will never wear them out when only using the truck as a toy.

That is true. I have a yard full of toys that I will never be able to wear the tires out onTo clarify, when i said the there are 4 brand new tires, what I really meant was that they are 100% tread. They are likely 20 years old but show zero signs of rot or checking or anything. I keep all my "toys" under a roof so they are not subjected to the sun except when i am running them so that helps a LOT

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I've not seen new 10.00R-20 tires myself in years. I have a virtually new set for my B-673ST, (GoodYear) but thought the size was extinct. My RL-755LST also has 10.00R-20 tires on the steer and they have been protected from the sun but are aged many years. They are in good condition. Have brand new 10.00R-22 steer tires on my 57 B-61, and brand new 10.00-22 drive tires on this one which have never seen direct sunlight.

I never minded radial steer tires and bias on the drives myself. Ran several trucks that way over the years. Never really had problems but as always, always, always, good tire maintenance is paramount for them to last.    

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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20" tires are going to be tube type.  That opens that can of worms about the multi-piece rims.  22.5" tires are going to be tubeless.  That means 1-piece rims.

We've beat that horse to death on here...many times!

I have run 20" bias drivers and 22.5" radial steers too.  No issues.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Changed my split rims to all Daytons on spokes after the first flat on a steer doing a slow motion turn ,the rim had rust &rot issues that you could not see and put all new 22.5 radials on my L model fire truck. I never did like the split rims ,for looks almost the same and safety is the name.

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19 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

That is true. I have a yard full of toys that I will never be able to wear the tires out onTo clarify, when i said the there are 4 brand new tires, what I really meant was that they are 100% tread. They are likely 20 years old but show zero signs of rot or checking or anything. I keep all my "toys" under a roof so they are not subjected to the sun except when i am running them so that helps a LOT

Mine stays inside also beside a couple times a month, thus the reason they are in decent shape after all this time.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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I'm with you on the looks of the 10:00-20, I think the vintage look is cool. The lock rings and tubes are a hassle, but I'm still going to run them on my truck. I agree with others that radial steers/bias drives should be no problem.

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I'm getting ready to order a set of 8 bias ply 8.25-15LPT tires for my drop deck. I've had three radial tires explode from age when the trailer doesn't move anyplace. Once the rubber ages out and dry rots/cracks, moisture starts to working on the steel belts and the result is tire failure.

My 51 A-40 has had two 10.00R-22 tires explode on me inside the shop and that truck never sets outside. Again dry rotted old tires and if one looks at the steel belts, they are crusty. These have never had a nail in them either but are probably 40 years old. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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15 hours ago, Rob said:

I'm getting ready to order a set of 8 bias ply 8.25-15LPT tires for my drop deck. I've had three radial tires explode from age when the trailer doesn't move anyplace. Once the rubber ages out and dry rots/cracks, moisture starts to working on the steel belts and the result is tire failure.

My 51 A-40 has had two 10.00R-22 tires explode on me inside the shop and that truck never sets outside. Again dry rotted old tires and if one looks at the steel belts, they are crusty. These have never had a nail in them either but are probably 40 years old. 

My old float had bias tires when I bought it. Some were really dry cracked I wasn't sure to use them or not. They held up for a long time I eventually replaced them with radials. Those bias are durable tires

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I ordered the eight "Power King" branded tires yesterday. I've already purchased tubes last year so should be good to go. I'm not wanting to run this trailer much and it will continue to set mostly but the tires do need to hold air..... The mix of radials on there are well aged but starting to dry rot on the inside duals also. Open center rims, (Dayton) and I'm not willing to spend the money for both rims and radial tires for this trailer.

I have the "Power King" brand bias tires on both of my pull behind welders, and pull behind air compressor. These have served well and only have low, local miles on them. The machines do reside in the shop so not really in direct sunlight unless on a jobsite.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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