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Very pleasant activity. And of a kind I really like. Made something like that with a Cruiseliner a few weeks back. With a difference I had the cranck spinned when was installing clutch before acting the starter. I got lucky with the starter after reconnecting jumper cables for a couple of hours. And even could start the engine (on the next day). But got an issue with the clutch not disengaging.

Hope the greasing up you made would help.

You typed "40km". Are you in Canada? Or anywhere else?

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Yup, as said above. Could also be a timing gears issue, oil pump or any other part which is supposed to spin or move when you turn the crank shaft. And you won't be happy to get broken. Actually a END inline 6 is faster to get apart than figuring out on removing a part or another or just picturing the matter in mind. I mean inframe job, the heads and the pan.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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9 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

Check it for what?. 

you might get a better idea of what is binding your engine up.   terry:MackLogo:

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From experience a mouse nest is not needed to have the condition you are describing. As said a valve or two is open at anytime in an engine just sitting. Water and moisture are usually the root cause of a stuck engine, be it gas or diesel. It takes a small amount to do damage to a cylinder liner, piston and rings over years of sitting. How the water/moisture gets into the cylinder is more a concern that what it has done to the cylinder. Most of the time it is though an open intake or exhaust valve. Removing the manifolds would tell that story. Other things that can happen are a leak in the head gasket or a crack in the piston sleeve for these wet sleeve engines. A cracked head is possible as well. I have had all of these issues over the years. An E9 ran great when it was pulled, I did not drain the block and stored it for several years in a temp controlled building. Pulled it down for rebuild recently and one cylinder had about a tablespoon of coolant in it. Liner was rust stained, small pits and under inspection had a 1 1/2" crack in it just above where the piston sat for years. It is hard to get a scope bent around to see the cylinder walls when putting it down the injector hole epecially if the rust is high in the cylinder. My bet is this condition, even if you get it unstuck there maybe ring, sleeve and piston corrosion damage.

For oil filters it is not uncommon to have several oil filters on a truck. The large one with 1" lines is a full flow filter right from the oil pump. The smaller one is normally a bypass filter for other engine functions.

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After I found 3 of the cross reference filter numbers I called it good. You need to find a GOOD parts place. My local napa pretty much refuses to use their books and if they dont want to order you something they will just say it's not available. This is why I mostly deal online. If they dont need to help me I don't need to go there. Find a local big truck shop. They WILL get it for you, if they dont have it.

I'm no expert (far from it in fact) but I'm pretty sure you cant just remove the hoses and plug the ports.

I ordered 4 of these filters off ebay a month ago. They're still being made.

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Screenshot_20201009-180618_eBay.jpg

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They definitely still sell the short and long luberfiner (bypass) oil filter cartridges. I can look at mine to get the right number.

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17 minutes ago, Licensed to kill said:

I can post the dimensions of the filter. 

If you take the filter element out, it should have the number embossed either on the steel sides or on the top of the filter element.

Mine is a luberfiner 500c and takes a 51554 cartridge. 

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On 10/15/2020 at 10:16 PM, Licensed to kill said:

I considered that but one I pull the rocker rails all the valves seem to close and i can open each one manually a bit. I did notice that when I put a straight edge across the valve stems with the rockers off, they are all level except one and that one IS on #1 cylinder. It is about 1/8" lower than the rest. Doesn't necessarily mean anything but could i suppose. I didn't see a valve stuck in the piston with the bore scope either.

^^^^^^^^^My Money's on this being your problem.

But, as has been said. Best to Pull the head & have a Look..

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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37 minutes ago, Hayseed said:

^^^^^^^^^My Money's on this being your problem.

But, as has been said. Best to Pull the head & have a Look..

Sounds logical to me.  That one valve might have something keeping it from closing completely.  1/8" is a mile in an engine.  If it is not closing completely, then you would get the exact symptoms you are describing.  Everything would turn until that piston neared TDC, and then it would hit that valve.

Could be corrosion or rust on the valve stem.  Could have a lump of crap on the valve seat.  You might be able to bring the piston up near (but not too close to) TDC (to keep you from dropping the valve into the cylinder), remove the keeper and spring, and move the valve around by hand to see if you could free-up or dislodge anything.  WARNIING: it can be a bear to get the spring back on, though.  So, be forewarned.  On a gas engine, we would pressurize the cylinder through the spark plug hole to hold the valve closed.  Not sure if you could pressurize this one through the injector hole or not.

I once freed a partially-open valve that had some gunk on the stem by spraying penetrating oil down the stem and tapping the valve lightly with a rubber mallet (with the spring still on it).  It would originally move down easily, but would not come all the way back up.  After a few soaks and taps, it finally came all the way back up.  But, this one had only very minor crud on the stem.  The seat was clean.  It had the same symptoms; the crank would turn until the piston touched that valve, and then it stopped cold.

If you can't do anything from the top, then, like the man said, you have to decide if you want to play in this league.  It ain't cheap.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Forgot to mention there is a whole lot of used parts available for end engines out there  ....... I would certainly try to repair what you got before switching driveline.... that’s only last resort.... but yes your going to have to open your wallet real wide regardless.... search shipping and $$$ good luck.. bob

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12 hours ago, AZB755V8 said:

[quote]Sounds like a lot of talk but maybe that is all you are wanting. [/quote]

Perhaps that is because I want all available information and possibilities before I go tearing into things and spending money unnecessarily.

[quote]If pulling a head is to expensive and so on a Mack is not going to be an inexpensive toy. Stick with a small block Chevy maybe in a 70's car so parts are cheap and the vehicle is EZ to work on. [/quote]

If you read my post that you quoted you will find that I said the cost of the gasket is peanuts if pulling the head is necessary. I don't like doing exploratory surgery looking for cancer before elimination possibilities like the common cold. While it is true that this is my first medium/heavy duty project, I have done several car/pickup projects including body swaps, driveline swaps, some gas to diesel and mix-matching brands as well as manufacturing body panels. Also, having owned several heavy trucks over the years (only have 2 Petes now) I have done my fair share of repair/maintenance on those as well and by comparison, this B61 is a lightweight. NO toys are inexpensive but throwing money at a problem before determining what that problem actually IS just makes it worse IMO. 

[quote]I commented earlier in this post to help but did not think that it would be tuning into a snivel feast.[/quote] 

I appreciated your previous post very much. In fact, I added either a "like" or a "thanks" to it (I don't recall which). It was very well thought out and helpful. However, I was not aware that I was required to take it as gospel and that I was to accept it as the "final word" on the subject. My bad. 

[quote]So replace a piston & liner or two and get the old dog running instead of taking 2 weeks to talk about what you don't want to do.[/quote]

I may do that yet. However, I am exploring several options for this truck and am not ONLY looking at a stock restoration. I am still considering an engine swap, a driveline swap, putting the cab on a whole new chassis, choosing a newer medium duty chassis or a light duty chassis (I have an '03 Dodge dually cummins 6 spd that may become a donor) or just park it as yard art. I also have a 1950's vintage Holmes wrecker that I am considering putting on it or i may leave it as a wheel tractor. A LOT of things have to be considered in choosing which may i want to go and, since there is a lot to consider before choosing a direction, that requires asking for the opinion of others. 

[quote]No one said a Mack was cheap so buck-up or shut-up. We are here for advise but you have to do something with it or it is a big waste of time for everyone.[/quote]

I was never expecting this to be cheap but that does not mean that I am willing to spend money where it is not needed. I didn't realize that you were the spokesman for the entire forum and that you speak for "everyone" but I do see that you are not alone in your view that my participation here as a waste of "everyones" time so I will choose to "shut up". I will find the information I seek elsewhere. Enjoy your projects, I know i will enjoy mine. 

 

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