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wilbur

Tie Rod Ends

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Mack wants 70$ for Eaton 817018 And I can get Automann for 41$. Are the Eatons worth that much more money.?   Thanks

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They may be same thing but how would any one know.Me and my self never try to cut corners on front end related parts.There is so much knock off parts out there that i am afraid to take a chance.I remenber working at the freightliner dealer and ever once in a while you would get a recall on tie rod ends that they would replace because of a hardness problem.

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Eaton makes truck parts. The other company makes parts for Auto's, Mann! Do you want truck parts or car parts?

Never heard of automann.  Stuff like that I buy through my dealer. I don't care about price hunting on safety. I care about not wrecking.

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I have used "AutoMann" branded parts for over 15 years without a single fault. As good and many times better than conventional and recognized brand names. Compare one of their wheel end kits, or "S" cam rebuild kits with brand name and you"ll find no difference in appearance. I cant vouch for longevity as I've never had anything come back for premature failure or wear. Their aluminum wheels run as true as any other also.

Not bragging them up, but I cannot run them down either. My service from them has been very good. 

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Had a fatal accident here years back caused by a tie rod end on a Semi, he ran over a 4 wheel and killed the occupants. They parked the wreckage of the semi at our dealership pending arrival of insurance and DOT inspectors. In the end liability was hanging on faulty part or faulty maintenance/inspection. I'd never go cheap. Every day the front axle of that vehicle decides your fate.   

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This is my Durango at the Pilot truck stop just inside the Indiana state line on I-74 8200 miles after replacing the upper and lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, and front shocks. All parts are "Moog" brand except the shocks which were Monroe. I'd just come off the interstate running a steady 70 mph and pulled into a parking spot for a bottle of water. Upon backing out of that spot, I stepped on the brake pedal to slow from reverse to shift into drive, heard a clunk, and the left front set down on the pavement. Lower ball joint separated taking the shock absorber and left 1/2 shaft with it. The control are laid into the shock hard, and the 1/2 shaft had the joint pulled apart. Nobody hurt but I was almost 200 miles from home. I hitched a ride with a former coworker, grabbed ole "Krusty" and car trailer, carved out a skid shoe from a 6X6 timber to set the lower control arm into and set off on the retrieval. Long day it was.

Name brand doesn't seem to mean much any longer although you can sure pay for it.

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It would appear Rob  Has an angel following him around! Can you Even imagine the out come had that happened  @ 70 miles an hour! You should be buying lottery tickets bro!

I have seen Brand spankin new OEM Steering parts go bad in  6 months as  Glenn mentioned !  I  think  Shit  happpens  sometimes I  guess!  ! I had  none Related part failure once Replaced a timing chain on a 79  400 ford once 1  month prior to holiday ! packed up the wife and kids and headed for Idaho stayed in Emmit  for a week or so on the way back climbing a hill in BC here Just out side Revelstoke And THE DAM THING QUIT that shininey new jobber timming chain Broke ! I got  to keep it  no warrenty ! I swore off buying jobber stuff for a while after that how ever this shit happens even to OEM Stuff too !

Edited by fjh

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Thanks guys I ended up buying the Eatons and they are made in USA.   Thanks again.

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That's the easy part getting them suckers out of the tube is a u no what..lol..

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Wasnt bad at all and mine been in there 20 yrs. It just took a little heat and im not a strong guy. Plus being 69 doesnt help much.

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Some of those adjusting sleeves can be really difficult but heat always helps. If they're too bad I just replace them but usually lubricant, and spreader chisel driven into the gap and the correct adjuster wrench gets them loose.

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I'm wondering what was found "confusing" in my above post showing my Durango setting on the front suspension after the ball joint separated? The point was that it really doesn't matter who's name is on the package, it can still fail as it's a manufactured part. The good thing is nobody was hurt and the vendor covered both the destroyed parts and labor charges to rectify the failure. They even credited my account for $100.00 for the time spent to retrieve the vehicle. That part was their initiative, not mine.

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gotta say I rarely ever use heat on tie rod ends, maybe for a second to get them to break loose, then let it cool and use free all or blaster. ruined too many tie rod tubes by pullin the threads out by heating them. usually this day and age its easier to just buy a tube and ends

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1 hour ago, Maddog13407 said:

gotta say I rarely ever use heat on tie rod ends, maybe for a second to get them to break loose, then let it cool and use free all or blaster. ruined too many tie rod tubes by pullin the threads out by heating them. usually this day and age its easier to just buy a tube and ends

Yup. Heat to get them to release is usually all that's needed and lubricant will take care of the rest. Big secret is the correct adjuster wrench to use; it's not vice grips or channel locks.

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usually screw the nut back on and put and end wrench on that and the all to turn them out and in

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Once on the truck I use a pipe wrench to adjust Toe.

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On 12/19/2019 at 5:13 PM, Rob said:

I'm wondering what was found "confusing" in my above post showing my Durango setting on the front suspension after the ball joint separated? 

That’s what my Dodge did. Only I was picking up pet food and turning backwards out of a park spot. It was the left front. 

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1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

That’s what my Dodge did. Only I was picking up pet food and turning backwards out of a park spot. It was the left front. 

It's strange that I know a couple other parties that have had similar experiences with their Dodge suspension. Across their line front ends were known to be weak but I grease every 5K with an oil change. This must be related to the upward thrust on the ball joint of applying brake force while rolling backward? Frustrating all the same.

Thanks,

 

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Posted (edited)

An automotive instructor from the tech school said that would be deadly on the highway, but it seldom happens there. He nailed it on the head, usually slow, side torquing, turns. I wouldn’t doubt the caster/braking theory.

Edited by Mack Technician

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Shop 2001 f150 had similar instances with tie rods.  They would fall apart backing out of parking spot.  Not going down the road.  It happened twice!

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