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CH 613 A/C BLOW WARMER WHEN DRIVING


msbulldog601

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On 8/25/2019 at 7:34 PM, c-mac said:

clamp off the heater hoses and see if that helps

I have the blower motor back going now I’m going to work on getting the air cool now I’m gonna clamp off the hose and drive it to see what that does... what do you recommend clamping the hoses with 

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That’s consistent to what Cmac and full fuel were suggesting. When you rev the engine(driving) the engine coolant circulation pressure rises forcing hot coolant into your dash core at a faster rate.  

Cheap fix. Change the coolant control valve and make sure it strokes full closed with your dial-dash controller. 

Edited by Mack Technician
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On 8/27/2019 at 3:58 PM, wilbur said:

You need to put a ball valve or some kind of shut off on at least one heater hose.The stock one doesnt completely shut off.

On 8/26/2019 at 4:09 PM, Mack Technician said:

Google “Mack E media”. They sell complete wiring diagrams. $22.00 

 

This is the heater core that I have in my truck I want to make sure I have things hooked up correctly also... Can you help me identify the inlet and outlet on the heater core. Is the inlet(supply) on the heater core is the top port? Also from my understanding about the hoses the hose that comes from the block is the inlet(supply) line that goes to the inlet on the heater core. The way you see the picture is the way is goes it goes into the dash of truck when installed  

F974C287-2994-4424-9440-94715B811F0F.jpeg

Edited by msbulldog601
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Keeping mind here, it’s not about getting better heater core performance. It’s about getting better A/C which means no heater core flow. You can reverse that core and have great heat.

As a general rule you inlet on the lowest point and outlet at the highest point, the dynamic behind displacing air.

Edited by Mack Technician
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I agree with what these guys are telling you regarding the heater shutoff valve. Start with that.

Also, did you charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant? If it is overcharged the higher rpm's can raise pressures too high reducing cooling.

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18 hours ago, steeler said:

I agree with what these guys are telling you regarding the heater shutoff valve. Start with that.

Also, did you charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant? If it is overcharged the higher rpm's can raise pressures too high reducing cooling.

Yes I charged the system with the correct amount of refrigerant my truck which is a CH613 Day Cab requires 3lbs of refrigerant (4 12oz Cans of Refrigerant) is what I used.  

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2 minutes ago, wilbur said:

Your on the money. If you had it apart I would of changed the dryer, but if its working your good. In another month you wont need it anyway.

Lol right that’s the same thing my wife said but I did change the dryer, expansion valve, condenser, evaporator, and Ac lines 

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On 8/27/2019 at 3:58 PM, wilbur said:

You need to put a ball valve or some kind of shut off on at least one heater hose.The stock one doesnt completely shut off.

I’m gonna install this manual ball valve on the same line that the stock water valve is installed on just before it so I won’t have to remove the stock one because of the cable that’s connected to the stock valve. What do you think? 

46A329AB-C4E9-4556-978C-C76802114DB8.jpeg

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On 8/31/2019 at 1:31 PM, Mack Technician said:

Keeping mind here, it’s not about getting better heater core performance. It’s about getting better A/C which means no heater core flow. You can reverse that core and have great heat.

As a general rule you inlet on the lowest point and outlet at the highest point, the dynamic behind displacing air.

I’m gonna install this manual ball valve on the same line that the stock water valve is installed on just before it so I won’t have to remove the stock one because of the cable that’s connected to the stock valve. What do you think? 

D24CC9DA-7D0A-4951-A3EE-C0A02BE7E21E.jpeg

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It’s a cobble, but it will work. There will come a day when the temp starts to swing cold in the morning and hot in the day. Your going to get pretty damn tired of popping your hood twice a day when you could have just replaced the failed controlled water valve and been done right.

Edited by Mack Technician
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8 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

It’s a cobble, but it will work. There will come a day when the temp starts to swing cold in the morning and hot in the day. Your going to get pretty damn tired of popping your hood twice a day when you could have just replaced the failed controlled water valve and been done right.

They dont last. The ball valve will outlast the truck. Just rig the cable to it.

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2 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

It’s a cobble, but it will work. There will come a day when the temp starts to swing cold in the morning and hot in the day. Your going to get pretty damn tired of popping your hood twice a day when you could have just replaced the failed controlled water valve and been done right.

I may go ahead and replace that as well just for that reason and season just turn the the ball valve to the open position but I have some insurance(ball valve) installed when it gets back hot when I’m running the a/c. 

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18 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Hahahaha, that would be awesome. Tell ya what, I’ll apologize and take back my cobble comment if you send me a pic of a successful 1/4 turn valve cable-controlled retrofit. 

I will work on that this winter in the off season.

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I mounted my ball valve to the engine side of the firewall. I took the handle off first and mounted it at a spot with a hole. Then I put the handle back on in the cab side of the firewall. Still have to turn it in and off on a cool morning ... but I don’t have to pop the hood. I just reach down under the dash above the throttle pedal. Works like a charm.


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