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41chevy

Hey Freightrain

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Rocknrace has Nostalgia and Heritage gassers plus FED's and Vintage Funnies. They are paying travel costs to those of us with legit nostalgia gassers. Southeast Gassers, Northeast Gassers and the group I'm in Geezer Gassers. They say over 500 vintage gassers.altereds and Front engine fuelers are tentatively registered.. I'm painting my 55 so it will be shiny for the first time since 1969 with the name my wife called it on the side.(til some snowflake asks me to cover it)   I got running the car down pat for a single person gig, been running it solo since 1969 but volunteers are more than welcome

I'll be camping there in my Marmon and a shorty ramp trailer for the car. I'll send you my cel # and Email before the event.

Can't bring my ex M/T Pinto because I can't get the chassis issue certified. It's one of Mickey Thompson built  funnycar chassis build entirely Titanium tube and brackets. The race chassis shop in Mass could not bend the Titanium tubing or NHRA certify the welds to run high 6's . Spent way way too much for a Kaase  Prostock 820c.i. Boss 9 with digital injection stacks. Runs on gas makes 2570 h.p. and looks period for B/FC Nostalgia.  

How did you block fail?

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Cool.    Like I said, the event has prospered some since the earlier events.  Kinda just rat rods making fun runs and some rockabilly bands playing.  I took the wagon and ran, but once I lost I packed up and left because the temperature was really hot that day and I was miserable.


DW42 is quite a nice place now with lots more parking area then before it was "rebuilt".  Though only porta pots for bathrooms, they ran out of money before any other facilities were built.  It is a work in progress.  I still call it my home track, though we don't run there much anymore.

 

As for the motor?  I only got 19 seasons out of that factory block.  Geez.  LOL!!  I haven't pressure checked it yet, there is something wrong with #1, but nothing visual.   I sleeved #4 18 yrs ago when it ate a carb screw and cracked it.  The block is 3/4 filled from back then also.  I put 427 cross bolt caps on it(it was an NOS 1973 428 block service).  I'll fix it up once I have the car running.  It will still be a good piece for sometime later.

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Gee when I blow one it is usually broom and dust pan work. Course I go by the adage pop told me when I started racing at 16  "never back off"

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Well, I tend to make my stuff last.  I'm just a poor bracket racer.  I found water in the oil when I was doing my pretrip after unloading a few months ago.  I put it back in the trailer and brought it home to investigate.  I put head gaskets on it, but one pass and it was missing at 1000 ft mark.  I knew it was more hurt then head gaskets.  All my buddies were all upset.  I told them it lasted 19 years and the valve covers haven't been off in 3 yrs.  It is all still in one piece, so I'm not crying.


The new block was not really in the cards, but I just figured WTH and bought it.  I'm working deals on stuff to upgrade what I can.  The shop doing the work is cutting me slack on lots of stuff and getting things ready ASAP so I can get back out.  Though I've been using them for 30 yrs, so we're good friends.

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Posted (edited)

Going to check line bore on the mains? I've found a found 1 over the years so I now check all surfaces from deck to main line bores.

 

I push my engines but I'm anal over finish, fit dimensions  and final assembly. The 496BBC in my 55 was a GM Performance "Blueprint Series" short block and ProMaxx heads. Block checked out with a .007 mismatch in deck height, rod big ends were all out of round by .002 to .004 no way aceptable for a GMP so called hand assembled unit. ProMaxx heads were acceptable after I fixed the run out on the guide to seats on 9 valves and got anal matching spring pressure exactly with shims. My engines stand up because of the time I spend going over everything 3 and 4 times to make sure nothing is missed. When I do have a failure it generally is caused by something odd. The previous engine in the car grenaded from the distributor shaft failing at the roll pin which took out cam, crank and 3 rods at about 7500 rpm.

Of course I also run more exotic fuels than you do. The 496 runs 18 lbs boost with 10.25 C.R. with 85/15 mix of Alcohol/Benzine, the previous engine was running 35 lbs boost intercooled turbo on 100% alcohol. the Boss 9  is set to run 100% Alcohol through injection or with a 1/2 hour on the laptop 40% nitro.

Edited by 41chevy

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Posted (edited)

The shop I use is overly anal.   That is why I get 19 years from a block.  I had 6 years on this build and when I pulled it apart the bearings looked like I put them in yesterday.  Nothing out of place.  All I've done it change oil every spring(cut filter apart to check for anything extra).  Haven't had to check valve lash for 3 yrs.  I used to check it, but found that it's never out.  I quit checking it.

Yes, this block will get the fine tooth comb.  Everything, everywhere.  My crank/rods are getting magged this week.  New pistons already in.  Will be file fitting stuff this Saturday, plus more block prep. New pistons are within a couple grams of old ones, so no re balancing needed(cost cutting).

Of course the shop is not the cheapest, but the motors stay together.  I have friends that complain about the cost(of doing it right).  But will have to build a couple engines a year by cutting corners.  I'm still scratching my head of that even after decades of watching it happen.  Stubborn, bull headed?  Don't know why, but it goes on.

I do get "good guy" deals on stuff and others don't.  Comes from being a good customer/friend for 30 yrs.  Some people don't see the true value.

 

I wouldn't trust any "factory" built motor.  At least not at the power level you are working at.   

Edited by Freightrain

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41 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

All I've done it change oil every spring(cut filter apart to check for anything extra).  

Stupid question. How do you cut a oil filter open and not get debris (metal shavings) in it? I know there must be a way which is why I’m asking. 

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They make a can opener kind of deal.  Spins around the top using a wheel to cut the can open.

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I learned when a "pro" built 440 lost a rod because the builder didn't recheck his torque The nut was in the pan in mint condition. Was one run away from finishing 2nd or 3rd at the  UHRA Super Stock Nationals at N.Y. National Speedway in 1972.  S&K Speeds AMX was running against me the winner of that round would have gone up against  Bob Tascas Super Cobra Jet 1970 Mustang. Would have lost to the AMX any how as it was running 4 tenth quicker all day. Never had anyone do an other engine for me again.

I take the same care on street engines too. My original 392 fuel motor from 1973 had over 100 runs on it and if I resealed it I would run it today.

I do the same ministrations over my trans and rear. The 57 Olds rear has a pair of hams set up to drop in 5:88 and 4:56 built them 35 years ago and still tight tolerances. My 4 speeds I do myself mainly because no one left does the syncro mods I need for shifting. I modify the brass and cones by removing every other tooth, polishing the slides and dogs. Setup works so the clutch is only needed to go fully into gear. I run an ancient Hurst 3 speed shifter on the Super T10 . The old 3 speed shifter has a shorter and narrower gate. i have a homemade spring loaded pull rod for reverse. You physically have to pull the rod and  hold it to compress the spring for reverse. Let go of the rod and you are out of reverse. 

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Few years back, the shop I use worked on a 427 for a fellow.  He just built the motor himself, but had "noises" at start up.   They get it apart and find all the rods were loose.  No one torqued them?  Uh, it was a time bomb.  After going through the whole thing, it was good to go.

I'm stupid anal about procedures and going step by step.  I start over if I think I screwed up.  I'm the same way in the wagon.  I have a routine I follow.  If I get interrupted.  I start over no matter.

The hardest decision is putting the oil pan on a motor.  No easily going back LOL!!

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

Stupid question. How do you cut a oil filter open and not get debris (metal shavings) in it? I know there must be a way which is why I’m asking. 

Found a picture:
Image result for oil filter cutter

Edited by Freightrain
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The dumb thing is...mine is a royal PITA.  It needs to cut the filter about 1/4" higher.  Granted I run a specific race filter and it is much more stout then a run of the mill Fram POS.

I stomp and cuss the whole time I'm using it.  Luckily it is only once a year.  It still gets paint fragments around the edge inside, but you aren't looking at that portion of the filter.  You unwrap the substrate and look in the folds for anything metallic.

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4 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Few years back, the shop I use worked on a 427 for a fellow.  He just built the motor himself, but had "noises" at start up.   They get it apart and find all the rods were loose.  No one torqued them?  Uh, it was a time bomb.  After going through the whole thing, it was good to go.

I'm stupid anal about procedures and going step by step.  I start over if I think I screwed up.  I'm the same way in the wagon.  I have a routine I follow.  If I get interrupted.  I start over no matter.

The hardest decision is putting the oil pan on a motor.  No easily going back LOL!!

Well when I do assembly in my build room or prep on the cars I shut off the phones and lock the doors. I do use a punch list and tick off each step as I go. Was a PIA in the beginning but second nature now. Try to talk with me at race time I shut all them out.Some one was chatting with me at Atco on Sept 7, 1980 and it cost me 127 days in the hospital and a totally destroyed drag bike.

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Ouch.  I'll remember that next month!!!

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Ouch.  I'll remember that next month!!!

 Coming home hurt worse! My wife was in Florida with her mom for a wedding and she specifically said to me: "DON'T RACE THE F'in Bike" before she left.

Had the new one planned out before I left the hospital. :)

Edited by 41chevy

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Posted (edited)
On 8/1/2019 at 9:35 AM, Freightrain said:

Old motor coming out:

 

IMG-20190712-095909956.jpg

 

New parts....

IMG-20190716-145745527.jpg

 

Roughing the bores to size:

IMG-20190729-173506554.jpg

 

Hope to see what the heads look soon.   They went to Fox Lake for a CNC program.  They were around 300 cfm on the intake with just some hand work back in '98 when I bought them.  They say it should be in the 360 cfm range now.

How's the engine doing?? I'm leaving in the early morning on the 20th for Rocknrace at your home track. Send you my road phone number  during the week. When Fedex and and UPS deliver on Monday and Wednesday the major thrash starts. Finihed this morning up grading fuel system to 1.312 i.d. lines and fittings and a 1200 gpa pump. Ordered an Ididit Prolite steering column 5.8 pounds instead of the  27+ pound OEM one. Replacement  set of every piece of glass  in th55 hardtop with Armortech  lexan, shaves 105 + pounds off, and my  rocker cover check valves and puke tank  so I can finish my pulse Evac system. pick up a few h.p. but I'll rev up about 10 to 15% quicker. The pulse system  uses the header primary tubes to pull 10 to14 inches of vacuum in the crankcase to cut rotary resistance. Should all things combined kick close to .5 off my et and get around a bit over  140 through the lights.  Like to see low 9's to high 8's and top as close to 145 as possible sine total weight should be really close to 2340lbs.  Not to shabby for a 55 Bel Air hardtop. 

She's it's been a gasser since pop built it into a D/Gasser in 1962 and I converted into a MP car  in 1969 it's has a long hard career. I'm hanging it up as a race car at the end of 2020. That will make 51 years I've raced that car. .

Edited by 41chevy
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Washed the block Sat, ready for assembly this week. Waiting on cam.  Going to be close to have ready for Dyno by weekend of 24th.  I want to bring it home by labor weekend so I can have it ready for Sept 7th race.  Time will tell.

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1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Washed the block Sat, ready for assembly this week. Waiting on cam.  Going to be close to have ready for Dyno by weekend of 24th.  I want to bring it home by labor weekend so I can have it ready for Sept 7th race.  Time will tell.

The 23rd is opening day and first of the nostalgia fuelers running and altereds, Sat the 24th is nostalgia supercharged gassers and funnies. Three nostalgia gasser groups there and Geezer Gassers wants the blown cars limited to 9.5 /135. hope the Eastern and Southern assoc's don't let that happen. I'll get bumped because I won't pedal, it all  out for my cars

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Posted (edited)

I was planning on getting there on Saturday.

I have a truck club function at local KW dealer open house on the 23rd, but not sure I'll make it?  Depends on motor situation, I may need to take day off and work on it?  Dyno it?  Playing it by ear, as I want to come and hang with you on Saturday(if it doesn't screw up my dyno time--if that comes about).  I'm just playing along with shop schedule and what they can get done.  They're working real hard at getting it together so I can make the race on Sept 7th.

I have race on the 24th, but not thinking it will be done and in the car by then.


What's your travel plans like coming into town?  Where are you coming from?  VA?  ME?

Edited by Freightrain

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Coming from Va with my Ram 5500 with a camper slid in and a borrowed 25' enclosed trailer trying to leave Wednesday early am. Camping at the event starting Thursday noon. Plan on leaving to return to Va on Tuesday with a stop over to see Ohio George.

I am not please with time and speed limitations imposed by the people running the event. 9.50 and 135 for all  vintage gassers, 150 for vintage FED's and Funnies. With 278 pounds gone I can get into the very low 9's. Mostly glass and rubber  gaskets but 32 pounds on the steering column alone. Didn't think it weighed that much. Car scaled in at 2357 with 5 gallons of methanhol in it. Going to get the name lettered up Friday in Silver leaf  "Lazy Bitch 2".  That's what my wife christened it as years ago.

Edited by 41chevy

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Ok.  Guessing you'll come across 76 from the East.  DW42 is very easy to get to, as you come across Rt 76 and onto Rt 42 it's on the right side of the road.  Can't miss it.  I've got a rut worn in the road from my trips over there.  I joke with Karen about not worrying about falling asleep at the wheel... the ol truck knows the way home LOL!

I'm about 15 minutes south of Akron(rt 76), so didn't know if you had time to swing by and check out the toys.  I'm just directly east of Akron Canton airport(off rt 77)

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14 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Ok.  Guessing you'll come across 76 from the East.  DW42 is very easy to get to, as you come across Rt 76 and onto Rt 42 it's on the right side of the road.  Can't miss it.  I've got a rut worn in the road from my trips over there.  I joke with Karen about not worrying about falling asleep at the wheel... the ol truck knows the way home LOL!

I'm about 15 minutes south of Akron(rt 76), so didn't know if you had time to swing by and check out the toys.  I'm just directly east of Akron Canton airport(off rt 77)

I can do that! The Rocknrace  and Geezer Gassers are changing rules for the vintage FEDs,  Altereds and gassers I may not  be ABLE to run along with about 40 other cars or they may limit us to a 100 mph or less for 1/2 track.  If they do I'll just take the pick up and slide in hit the swap meet, go see you, Ohio George in Dayton and than head to Erie Pa to visit some friends. 

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