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2002 Mack rd


cfd511

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  • 2 weeks later...

The backspacing is paramount to his question. Different chassis/axle combinations will require a rim with adequate offset to preclude digging the tires into the frame or suspension members. To rule out trial and error you need to measure the distance from the hub face to the frame or anything the tire could impact during wheel cut or cornering. From there you use the measurements of the actual diameter and width of the inflated tire to be run and check for clearance while the wheels are turned lock to lock. This is easy to do with a yard stick or straight edge, and a tape measure from the wheel hub.

Those large tires get kinda expensive to tear them up by rubbing.....  

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Seen that plenty when folks turn the spindle stop bolts in to decrease the turn radius. Most don't know the proper way to do it either. 

Edited by Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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6 minutes ago, JoeH said:

What is the proper way to do it? 😀  My 95 rd688s steers like the Titanic, we have adjusted it to get about as much out of the 315s as we can reasonably get.

Twisting the bolts in is the easy part. You then need to adjust internal relief valves in the steering gear to bypass hi pressure when against steering lock otherwise high temperature hydraulic fluid and shortened component life are the result. Aged/abused sealing rings internal to the steering gear although still working will require much greater steering effort from the driver as a result.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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