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Flat rate for egr and cooler


Noroots8

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They were quoting me like +3000 when we thought that was the problem but it wasn’t. They were telling me they had to take the turbo off and a lot of times the bolts break bla bla bla. 95% of the shops out there are a much of crooks that change parts on our expense and don’t even know if that part is the problem. It’s is a pricey job though

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Turbo has to come off along with all the plumbing to it.  requires a kit to seal it back on don't remember if that comes with the EGR Cooler kit or not.  The cooler kit is expensive.  coolant plumbing and egr plumbing has to come off.  requires parts to seal them back on.   You can do it yourself before lunch once you've done it once and you have the parts and you don't break or have to fight with turbo bolts.  If they replaced the cooler 3000 is fair unless if you don't want to do it for the 1000 labor on the table.  I think there is about 2000 worth of parts to change it.   If they didn't change the cooler 3000 is ridiculous.   If they didn't change it i believe they should have or could have tested it both visually and with tools for leaks before it is removed.   

I saw a post on here where a member changed the cooler by lifting the front of the engine to clear the frame rail.  I believe he said it went well.   That would eliminate the  unfastening of the turbo and plumbing.  I suspect the fan blade would have to be removed.  The blade on the viscous fan is kind of a pain to remove and install.   Not sure which is easier.   If turbo bolts could not be made to turn I would look into that option.  

 

Edited by jwmcgregor
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20 hours ago, fjh said:

The raising of the engine works well. And saves time and take broken turbo bolts out of the equation.

Interesting. So are we talking flopping the fan blade forward away from the fan drive, or removing coolant tank, fan ring and fan?

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2 hours ago, steeler said:

Interesting. So are we talking flopping the fan blade forward away from the fan drive, or removing coolant tank, fan ring and fan?

Should have mentioned ! ( MP8 )This method has been tried and worked for us so far on GU chassis none of the above needs removing just the turbo drain and a few hose clamps and brackets beneath the turbo! lifting the engine high enough for the cooler to clear the frame and shock bracket and bottom of the turbo!As for a CX/CH  haven't done or seen it done so can't say will post more when its tried As mentioned lots of shit in the way fan shroud coolant tank bla bla bla ! so time will tell if we get to try another chassis will post !Others here have obviously tried it I guess it must work for those as well not sure !

 

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I believe before you go to all the trouble to raise the engine high enough to remove the egr cooler that you can remove the egr valve without breaking bolts or stripping threads in the manifold. If that happens (which happens a lot)then you might as well remove the turbo and so forth. 

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On 1/30/2019 at 11:13 PM, turckster said:

I believe before you go to all the trouble to raise the engine high enough to remove the egr cooler that you can remove the egr valve without breaking bolts or stripping threads in the manifold. If that happens (which happens a lot)then you might as well remove the turbo and so forth. 

Yes, if I'm doing a valve and cooler, I'm going to go ahead and pull the turbo.

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Quite honestly its not that much trouble in this model of truck to raise the engine  But I agree ,if you have an idea your  going to have to  replace the u pipe or going anywhere near that EGR valve we all know what that leads too! By all means go the long way around ! Just offering up an alternate method that can work under the right circumstances! its worth a go! you can save (your self), your boss, /your customer / time and money thrown at labor and parts in some situations !

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