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what a difference a day makes


Ezrider

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this is the gun iv been using for base clears

https://www.mgdistributor.com/product/euro-3200-h-series/

with a 1.4mm tip

on this job i certainly felt like i wanted more paint flow than what i could get with the 1.4 i wonder how it would have gone if i would have tried my other paint gun. 

for primers iv been using this gun with a 1.7

https://www.pbejobbers.com/product-hvlp-spray-gun-17_59267.aspx

 

these are both paint guns iv owned for a very long time. they probably were not the top of the line even when i got them, they were purchased at different times based off the recommendation from the auto body supplyer i bought them from for the project i had at hand when i bought them...lol.

 

haha...lol i just checked your link and its one of the two guns i have already of course not the one i used to spray on this job...lol that was the first one that i bought but i seem to recall having a issue getting a new 1.4 tip for it is why i bought the euro 

 

as far as psi i know they both say 10psi on the tips but i normally adjust my air preasure to my spray pattern with the fan all the way open and the fluid delivery all the way open dial in the air preasure for a football shaped spray patern seems i normally end up closer to 20-25psi at the inlet.

Edited by Ezrider
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9 minutes ago, Rob said:

The collision repair industry USED to be a lot of fun and took a skillset to be proficient at. Anymore it's just replace parts for the most part. Gone are the days of shrink, stretch, massage, etc. and the cost to repair the part less expensive that the replacement.

It can still be fun and rewarding but finding folks to pay for that is a rarity. Tell someone whom wants their 69 Chevelle SS repainted/restored it has possibility of approaching 40K in cost to them and the work can be quite slim. Explain to a farmer than an Imron paint job can cost up to $1500.00 in materials and they'll reference a $26.00 gallon of Rust-Oleum available at the local box store expecting the same quality of materials, etc.

A bit facetious it sounds but not that far off in reality.

I used to purchase the "new guys" one of each in the link and they always worked out well. Don't think I ever had problems getting rebuild kits, tips, needles, or caps for them however. I found them to be very consistent in operation too.

it could have even been that they were out or not in stock at the exact time that i needed them or something like that it was quite a few years ago. i just remember needing a new 1.4mm tip for it and not being able to get it so i bought the euro gun and ever sense then iv just used the transtar with a 1.7 for primers and the euro with a 1.4 tip for base clears. 

 

i noticed watching myself paint in the video my gun handling techniques could use a bit of improvement though, being that its not something i do every day though i guess it shouldn't be surprising. maybe spend a little more time doing dry runs with that in mind before i shoot my next paint job. i guess that is one advantage of recording the video as well how often do you actually get to watch yourself do something and notice things like that....lol

 

iv i had to venture to take a guess just based off the amount of time and materials i had into repainting my truck i bet that paint job would have run upwards of 10k. otherwise it would have been done half assed and they would have painted over vynal stickers and without proper surface prep and had issues down the road like was done when the hood was re-painted prior to my ownership of the truck. 

Edited by Ezrider
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6 hours ago, Ezrider said:

it could have even been that they were out or not in stock at the exact time that i needed them or something like that it was quite a few years ago. i just remember needing a new 1.4mm tip for it and not being able to get it so i bought the euro gun and ever sense then iv just used the transtar with a 1.7 for primers and the euro with a 1.4 tip for base clears. 

 

i noticed watching myself paint in the video my gun handling techniques could use a bit of improvement though, being that its not something i do every day though i guess it shouldn't be surprising. maybe spend a little more time doing dry runs with that in mind before i shoot my next paint job. i guess that is one advantage of recording the video as well how often do you actually get to watch yourself do something and notice things like that....lol

 

iv i had to venture to take a guess just based off the amount of time and materials i had into repainting my truck i bet that paint job would have run upwards of 10k. otherwise it would have been done half assed and they would have painted over vynal stickers and without proper surface prep and had issues down the road like was done when the hood was re-painted prior to my ownership of the truck. 

Point is you thought it out, prepped it properly and most important you did it yourself and you are pleased with it which is the main point. Also you learned experience for the next project. In the spring I'm going to break ground to build 38 houses, done it in my head a zillion times.

I do break waters, seawalls and quays for 30 years and learn something new on every job.  You are pleased that's all that counts.

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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that heater video has been a popular video' not my most viewed yet but it probably will be, there are a few really good comments but the majority of them are just annoying several down right rude, and the rest are just clueless....lol 

 

one thing i can't seem to wrap my head around is the heater did not operate properly on its advertised fuel source. but yet there is a ton of comments basically suggesting that i am a idiot and should know better that its not going to work on the fuel it was advertised to work on. its like come on really? i mean peanut butter gets recalled if it does not have a food allergy warning stating that it may contain peanuts but someone sells something advertised as the wrong fuel source and everyone is ok with that?

then there is the glow pin argument regarding the fuel type saying it should have a spark plug if its meant for gasoline, i understand where this comment comes from people know that gasoline engines have spark plugs and diesel has glow plugs. but they don't understand how or why each is used or than in the design of the heater it just needs some source of ignition and the fuel is not going to care witch or how its ignited in the application. witch is confirmed by the fact that espar and planar still utilize glow plugs in there gasoline versions. but i get that comment but after about the 20th time of answering it its like RTFM!!!!....lol i bet most of these people would tell you your a liar if you told them a diesel engine does not need glow plugs to run. 

 

i will say it would have been a better video had it been a direct a/b comparison with all specs equal but its not like a really make any money off these video's so i am showing things that i have or need to do ect for other reasons besides making video's so it was ordered for what i planned to use it for rather than ordered to make a comparison video. still answers a lot of questions people may have when choosing to go with a espar or the chineese knock off version. 

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yeah it is a drip system that drips threw a "atomizer" screen to kinda break up the liquid fuel. looking threw the parts lists on planar and espar heaters there gasoline versions use a different part number for the nozzle the controller and i think chamber if i remember right a few other modular replaceable parts but it still uses the same glow pin. i would guess what they do to make it work is they restrict the the fuel outlet down but pulse the pump more frequently, in relation to the fan speed pushing air threw the burner to keep residual pressure the fuel feeding the chamber for more consistent/more atomized fuel but increase the amount of fuel to air in the chamber to create a more consistent stable burn with the gasoline fuel type. but yeah a engine requires a precisely timed ignition event to run, this just requires a ignition source.

but yeah i agree it was mislabeled, and sold as the wrong fuel type still dumbfounded that it seems that no one seems to have a issue with the fact that even happened in the first place. should have never been sold as a gasoline fuel type heater if it does not function as such period. does not matter how or why. 

 

the gasoline version was a different part number for the diesel version so one of two things happened. eater the wrong labels were applied to the wrong unit. or they did a 30 second test it didn't blow up and they said ok we can sell this same unit as a different fuel type. either way absolutely awfull in terms of quality control that something ever be shipped/sold labled as a fuel type that it wont properly operate on. 

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here is the exact listing that i purchased its now listed as no longer available in fact it seems all the gasoline versions that were listed at the time i purchased are now not available i would figure that they figured out there was a issue and pulled them

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JJZTC5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

when it was available there was a drop down menu to slelect what fuel type you wanted when ordering. 

 

carlotpilot here is a link to the video. 

 

 

here is a link to my youtube channel home page as well. i try to put up 4 new video's per month

 

https://www.youtube.com/user/Ezrider92356

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back when i first got my espar for my truck i looked into trying to find a gasoline version for my boat however at that time there was none available at that time. however now there is a gasoline version of the webasto  

https://www.amazon.com/Webasto-Gasoline-Heater-install-9032227A/dp/B01M2ZCWTF

the next link is the pdf specs on that heater

https://www.webasto-comfort.com/fileadmin/webasto__media/webasto-comfort.com/EN_US/Datasheets/909543_ATEvo4055_SpecSheet_lo_res.pdf

as well as the espar https://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-b4-12v-4kw-heater-petrol-gasoline/

planar has a gasoline version of there coolant heater but not there air heater as far as i can find

https://planarheaters.com/product/pre-start-engine-heater-binar-5sgasoline-pu27-12v/

 

so i don't think it was unreasonable to think that it should work as advertised

here is another link to another one of the knock off versions that claims to be gasoline, you can see how there is a drop down to select the fuel type witch is the same as what was on the one that i ordered before it became no longer available

http://drivworld.com/product/277741101

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20 minutes ago, carlotpilot said:

slightly different topic but  related . i remember as a kid riding in a car a plymouth i think that had a gasoline fired heater . anyone know how that would have worked or has anyone ever seen one

vw buses and chevy corvairs had optional gas fired heaters. 

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27 minutes ago, carlotpilot said:

slightly different topic but  related . i remember as a kid riding in a car a plymouth i think that had a gasoline fired heater . anyone know how that would have worked or has anyone ever seen one

Had a few 1960 Corvairs with gas heaters. The had an combustion blower for intake and to push out the exhaust, an injector nozzle, a spark plug and a set of points and coil.Fuel came in from the fuel pump with a 3/16 line. Burner was stainless steel. Got boku heat in less than a minute.

When you come to look at the Packard I'll show you the GM Corvair gas heater in my Valykri

Edited by 41chevy
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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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cool, i don't really have a issue with the plastic case espars are plastic as well. the espar has been good for a long time, there could be a difference in the composite of the plastic between the two but they do seem similar, in-fact id be more worried about a metal case getting dented where if the plastic were to be struck by something it would have more give and bounce back if it where to get hit by something. its a very tough ridged plastic. although the china units seem to be functionally fine. i wouldn't be surprised to see the control boards fail on if used in a high moisture or high vibration environment. also with the casting quality on the aluminum heat exchanges on the china unit that i got i would expect they experience far more cracking/casting failures than the espars. my personal take on it is the china units are ok, they are functional. i think they are great for recreational applications where its just hard to justify the cost of the espar given the amount of use it will get. i personally wouldn't buy a china unit to put in a semi, but then again you can replace the china unit several times for the cost of 1 espar and the espar's are not without there issues ether. mostly just requiring fairly frequent cleaning to keep them operating properly. i would suspect the china units will have that same issue but it may be harder to find service parts for the china units (have not looked yet though however) 

i do buy all my espar parts online as its a pretty substantial cost savings i generally keep a atomizer screen a set of gaskets and a glowpin at the shop. order them on e-bay from the cheapest seller wich is normally shipping from the uk or some other place so takes a few weeks to get them but i do like that i can run to my local thermoking and grab parts for it as well if i needed even though it would be about twice the cost. 

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ill be curious to find out how they work out for you.i obviously don't have the long term experience with the knock off units that i do with the espar. i think my espar has over 3000 hours on it now. witch at the same time makes the cost of the unit more justified considering what 3k hours worth of fuel costs to run the engine let alone wear and tear. tons of people report having great luck with the knock off units. and i do think that the name brands are a bit over priced. 

 

i had planned on buying a second knock off unit myself to put in my boat that has a small forward cabin. i think im going to try to find a used espar for it instead now, the china unit might be ok for the boat as i trailer it so its not like its on the water all the time but the kinda crusty exposed electrical shyed me away from the knock off for that application. 

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31 minutes ago, Rob said:

Watched your king pin replacement video and was quite impressed. Sorry you come out of it looking as if you'd met my wife and said something she took exception to, but glad you survived. Your little press idea there gives me thoughts on a hydraulic pipe bender I no longer use for the purpose so may make a small bench top press from it. It's an older "Blackhawk" unit and works well. I'm thinking with some strap or channel along with possibly some angle, I can repurpose this thing to something useful again. I no longer bend 4" rigid conduits so this press just sets in it's wooden case.

yeah after i finished that job i just stuck some legs back on it and made it a bench top press, it would still be able to be used as a kingpin press if i needed to. i am pretty sure i accually broke the cheek bone in that video...lol a year later theres still a big dent that you can feel in the bone under my eye and to the side of my nose where i got smacked in the face....lol still have some mild pain in that area too and that was almost a year ago. i remember it happened on valentines day  last year cause i went out to dinner with the wife right after that happened. 

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