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Rob

My 4200 Transtar:

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Nice! Lucky that tree didn't bend the grill up!

Did you have much trouble starting it with that old fuel?

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Yes, grille is not bent at all which was surprising. Truck was very attractive when being run and really pretty quiet in the cab. Wasn't the typical "screamer" Detroit was known for. I remember it being worked like yesterday but I was a lot younger then.....

Really no problems at all getting it to start. New filters with fresh fuel and just a couple sniffs of ether after the oil pressure was 60+psi and she rolled right over. Took a few minutes to pick up the five cylinders ultimately but I think it ran on three for almost 1/2 hour before picking up another. Detroit's liked to stick individual injectors when setting long periods. If this happened in the "71" series, you could have engine runaway. Most "92" series had spring loaded control racks which allow the engine to run with a frozen rack. 

I dumped a quart of "Power Service" into each tank and swished it around pretty good. It continues to smooth out and I have a fresh reman set of injectors, but want to see if these will clean themselves before replacing them.

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For what it's worth, I used to run Power Service and had an injector stick on me near Indiana one time. Dealer down there couldn't get me in but said throw some conditioner in and limp it back home. So I stopped at a truck stop and all they had was Howes. Was the first time I ever used it. I put some in and literally in about 10 to 15 minutes on the Interstate the engine smoothed right out and it was fine. It un-stuck that injector when the Power Service didn't.

Ya, I was going to say....kinda sketchy sometimes starting those old 2 strokes when they have been sitting. I always keep a plate or something close by to choke it, LOL.

That grill looks good. I heard they are hard to find now, so take care of it. They are usually full of stone dings and dents.

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I agree on the Howe's but they didn't have it at the farm store where I was. I've never had good luck with an injector "freeing" itself if sticking when being driven. I've had lazy ones free up with the addition of a gallon of ATF into the tanks, but that was before using any additives. I usually pull them when stuck, submerge in the solvent tank for a few minutes, remove and shake them fairly dry, then play a propane torch from just below the spring to just above the nozzle tip. This always releases them for me. I then submerge in the tank again and work the injector while submerged. Never have had one stick again, (yet). I knew this one had the spring control tubes as there was no shutdown flapper. Kind of a dead giveaway with that clue. I took the set of reman injectors with me just in case I couldn't get it to run along with new rocker cover gaskets.

Only really negative thing was the rear brakes were frozen and would not cage, nor back off. I'm talking severely rusted in place. I took a Sawzall to the slacks on the front rear and had to beat the shoes back from the drums after removing the dust covers. I installed new slacks on the drives and new 30/30 cans on the front rear and the brakes work very well now. I couldn't get the adjuster to budge with a 1/2 impact in the field. After panic stopping a couple of times the brakes are fine now. 

There is a guy in the next town up north wanting that grille bad. He has a nice 4300 series, (Cummins Powered) and his grille isn't as nice as this one. Once I firm up my plans with this truck I may work a swap with him but don't know yet.

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Always ran either Mack branded filters or Fleetguard on the rollbacks many years ago. Never did run any additives but purchased fuel from the same places daily and they turned over a lot of fuel daily. Never did have any problems. Nothing was setting however.

Was into my 12V-71T a couple of weeks ago and noticed an injector on each bank tight. They still moved but were much too tight. Removed them and gave the same treatment mentioned earlier on the 92 series but just reinstalled once loosened. I'm going to drag the engine out shortly and go through them as nearing time to finagle that into a truck. Planning to move two RL-700 series chassis' outside and behind the shop so I can get operable trucks inside to break them apart along with gain some elbow room.  

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Good hearing from you  Rob

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15 minutes ago, GreenGiant2 said:

Good hearing from you  Rob

Thanks, I'm still kicking as is "Momma" with me being the target.

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Thanks for sharing this.

I have always had a soft spot for old binders and for some strange reason my new affliction is 92 series Detroits .

 

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Thanks. I've always liked the Detroit Diesels myself and others say I'm different; wife says "special". It's not difficult to see why this cab was popular as it's very easy to see out of and being aluminum, not all rusted out. It is cracked in a couple of places and I'll tig weld those back together once it's proven sound.

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Wow, bet that wasn't a fun job. Damn rodents. Are you going to drop the headliner? 

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Headliner and back panel(s) were removed shortly after the photos were taken. The rear panel didn't have near as much inside as the front of the truck and areas mentioned prior. However, they did still have some nesting. There was no sound insulation, and very little foam left in the roof. What did remain had been chewed up and used in nestings. 

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On 1/22/2019 at 9:28 PM, Bullheaded said:

Pour PURE peppermint oil in everywhere. It will make it smell nice inside as a side benefit.

 

I use it in the travel trailer and vehicles when they sit unused. Seems to work?

I use peppermint oil also, seems to work well on the Dumptruck and car very well. Just gotta keep the little A holes out of the garage now

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To kill any smell of an active infestation, and drive anything alive out immediately, I set an electric double boiler or coffee urn that will boil in the cab with a 50/50 mix of Clorox and distilled water. Boil a gallon of this solution in a closed compartment and nothing lives. Don't use straight bleach as it's strong enough to destroy fabric and threading holding fabric together. If you run the defroster on recycle setting it will also kill anything that has set up in the HVAC system too.

Smells pretty clean when done also.

 

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Started this truck at 21 degrees this afternoon and it's not been running in near a week. I cranked about 20 seconds to build heat,  gave it a break about 10 seconds, then another crank cycle of about 10 seconds and it fired off. Couldn't let off the throttle however as the governor hunts terrible and it would die till I held high idle about 45 seconds then started to back off. The engine hunted and rolled but grew increasingly stable so I backed it out of the building. I then gave my R-612 about 15 minutes of electricity from the immersion heater via my 3kw inverter generator and it too fired right off. That 300+ engine was the hardest starting thing till I retimed the engine correctly a few years ago, (thanks Glenn) and now fires very easily.

As per the days of old, it ran about 15 minutes and stalled from lack of fuel..... Dammit!!! Old habits sure die hard sometimes.

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I then gave my R-612 about 15 minutes of electricity from the immersion heater via my 3kw inverter generator and it too fired right off. That 300+ engine was the hardest starting thing till I retimed the engine correctly a few years ago, (thanks Glenn) and now fires very easily.


What did you do?

I have an E6 350 that is very hard to start

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7 hours ago, Quickfarms said:

 


What did you do?

I have an E6 350 that is very hard to start

Retimed the engine by removing the delivery valve from the pump and watching very closely for spill port timing. Mine was way retarded. The injection pump was a reman unit but apparently not installed correctly. It starts pretty easily now. This is a mechanical two valve engine.

Low compression can also cause hard starting if the engine is tired. I have one like that in a mower. If under 50 degrees it doesn't start easily, but doesn't use any oil. Compression is way down in that engine and I wouldn't be surprised if it has worn/broken rings. 

Edited by Rob

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On 1/24/2019 at 6:55 PM, Rob said:

Started this truck at 21 degrees this afternoon and it's not been running in near a week. I cranked about 20 seconds to build heat,  gave it a break about 10 seconds, then another crank cycle of about 10 seconds and it fired off. Couldn't let off the throttle however as the governor hunts terrible and it would die till I held high idle about 45 seconds then started to back off. The engine hunted and rolled but grew increasingly stable so I backed it out of the building. 

Sounds like buffer screw not set properly. It shouldn’t do that. If it cranked that cold without help it shouldn’t hunt that bad.

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21 hours ago, Rob said:

I agree and have not touched the governor yet. It's on the agenda but haven't gotten there yet. The starting aid screw, and the buffer screw are both just about backed fully out of the housing so someone was in to it that didn't know what they were doing. I now have a service manual for the proper procedure and will get it done in the near future.

I was pretty pleased it started so easily as I really thought ether was in the future for it when initially starting out.

I really enjoy driving this truck as that sound is just not common any longer. Sick bastard I am but I'd rather listen to antique engines than the garbage they pass as music these days.

Thanks,

 

When I worked on them regular; we always backed starting aid screw out. Main thing was setting the air gap, & giving the rack a little step up in its adjustment, backing the idle screw out you can feel the step up.

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