Big Red Mack Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 I have a 2006 CXN with a 460 hp. It had a complete Inframe at the dealer with a new cam a reman head and the other head reworked. Ever since the repair it will leak oil “sometimes” when the I idle on my 10 hour break. I changed the brake air compressor and the turbo. It still leaks. You can see in the pic it comes out the exhaust manifold, and turbo flange. Took it back to dealer they “ resealed” the lower exhaust studs. They don’t think it’s the rings because the valves aren’t black they looked grayish. Any thoughts? Also it doesn’t pull a hill since the rebuild at all. It actually pulls worse than before the inframe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 (edited) Looks like unburned fuel slobber coming from exhaust manifold joint. Common with winter cold starts regardless of injector health or idling with bad injectors. Usually leaves two black pus spots on you EUP chrome cover. Are you adding oil to the engine? Does your bill include injectors, or did they reuse them? Slobber coming out of one manifold union joint or both? what are you boosting at when in a hard pull(PSI)? Edited October 12, 2018 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 I agree with tech Very common in cold climates ! And if the engine has been Idled for hours on end ! Sometimes you have no choice , how ever Idling is not good for any engine And twice as bad for a diesel of any brand ! specially after a rebuild, it's Called wet stacking! Don't IDLE IT ! Even idling it at 1200 is not loading the engine enough to make the rings seat properly! When I do A rebuild I like to have a loaded trailer out side the building ready too haul Warm it up operating temp, slam it under the trailer and gently work the shit out of the engine for the first several hours !Then put the hammer down ! Even driving a couple of miles to the yard to pu a load is wasting valuable break in time in my mind.We proved this dozens of times with trucks delivered by ground the trucks that had been road delivered to the dealership with nothing on their back would burn oil from the get go! The trucks that hauled two or three trucks stacked to the dealership burned no oil because they had worked for the first 5 thousand miles! The sooner you work em the better break in ! Just sayin! 😁 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 We had some guys who were chronic idlers and would idle the truck to cool it before shutting it off at the house. The slobber would climb up the stem of the exhaust valve, he would shut it off, plug it in, go to bed, temps would go sub-zero, slobber turned to adhesive bubble-gum-pus, bond the exhaust valves solidly to the guides and bend his push tubes upon start up cranking. At the dealership we had a winter law- No shutting off a customers truck (outside) that isn't at full operating temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Red Mack Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) I live in the very hot south USA. Heat index averages 98-102 😅. They changed two injector “sleeves”. Not the injectors though. My manifold pressure gauge reads about 25 psi at 70 mph flat ground loaded, it will rise to 35 psi on a big upgrade climb. Before the major engine work I would have a slight trace of slobber near the waste gate. This seems excessive, however I never have to add oil. It is always in range on the dipstick. I truly think it’s internal because of the lack of power on an incline. As for the break in, I had this rebuilt 18 months ago. And I did bobtail(no trailer) about 250 miles home, but it has seen plenty of weight since. Edited October 13, 2018 by Big Red Mack Adding info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) Test injectors, verify how many bad, replace all if a couple are bad. Also good time to reset overhead on engine, since rebuild, now that your broke in. You have a CCRS engine, they burn through injectors faster than previous vintages. The fuel bangs the tips in multiple hits instead of one burst. Unless something has changed.....and Mack shaped up.....??...Locally sourced injector tips were generally better than remack injectors. Replace all your injector lines, even though they are new, per instruction from Mack. Not sure if you’ve been watching the threads ahead of you.....but folks are still lighting those AC engines up. Your heat index is 98-102 and you engine is capable of taking it to 1,800 if a fuel line fractures. Especially if you sleeping in it, don’t tempt fate, hate to see a brother on the news. good luck!🍀 let us know what fixed it. Edited October 14, 2018 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) Most remack stuff is junk now ! Seems The Volvo people instill no pride in the employees they hire , just a job! Get the injectors rebuilt by a reputable Bosch shop! Edited October 18, 2018 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 I replaced my air compressor two times with in 6 months with mack rebuilds.same thing with both they were pumping oil bad. went with a different supplyer and ask for a Bendix rebuilt and that stopped the oil.This was on a 95 PLN engine.Some more guys has had problems with mack rebuild heads Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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