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Ezrider

new parts on there way for the jaguar project.

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id love to see some pictures of your dads xke if you find some. 

 

i got my other core 350 torn down today. i was told by the guy that gave me that engine core that it had a bad cyl head, its been sitting around the shop several years now, a bit of bad news is although everything in the bottom end looked great other than 1 cyl that has had water sitting in it this entire time the engine had rusted up enough on that one cyl it wouldn't even spin over all the way till i cleaned it up a bit. as you typically find in the late vortec blocks all the other cyl's looked great could have easily gotten by with a hone re-ring and bearing job. ran a hone threw the cyl that had water in it and its defiantly going to need to be bored oversize to clean up. its also a 2 bolt main block rather than a 4 bolt like i have in the jag. 

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so now knowing that its defiantly got to go to the machine shop to be bored complicates how i might want to biuld the engine. i was planning on just re-ring hone thow a set of flat top pistons in it and new bearings then call it a day. the project i plan on putting that engine in is a 2wd 89 toyota pickup, weighs quite a bit less than the jag and will likely never get traction so wasn't really planning on a high horsepower build. figured id run vortec heads on it and thow the lt4 hot cam in it when i upgrade to a blower specific cam on the jaguar would make way more power than you could really use in a 2800lb rear wheel drive mini truck. 

now at the point that it needs to be bored its really not much more to just go ahead and biuld a 383 thinking maybe i should biuld a forged 9.x:1 383 out of it then when i get ready to put the other project together pull the engine on the jag put the new short block in there and re use the jag short block in the toyota project. but id be giving up a 4 bolt main for a 2 bolt main in the one i want to make more horsepower with if i did that. 

the other option is to just biuld a basic 383-355 out of the 2 bolt main block and when and if the jaguar short block says its had enough re biuld it as a forged 383 and keep the 4 bolt main block with that car. 

ether way the blower setup will get put on the jaguar engine as is for now because the machine shop i normally use tends to be really slow so after i decide how i want to build it and drop the block off it will probably be a couple months after that before i see it again. 

i did video record the engine tear down on the other block hopefully ill get it edited over the next few days here and upload it. 

Edited by Ezrider

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got another little project done on the jag today. its been nice being home this week if i never had to work id get a lot more shit done....lol

 

ever sense i did the engine swap the exhaust has been dumped right after the mufflers in front of the rear axle. it sounded good in town but it was almost as loud inside the car as outside and it droned really bad on the highway. to get the exhaust back up threw the rear cage over the stub axle and down around and out the back was going to be a nightmare esp with a 2.5 inch pipe really not even sure it could be done the factory exhaust was probably near half that size. when i was installing the new fuel pump earlier this week i got the idea of just going under the center of the diff (irs) and then kicking it up and avoid all that no clearance mess. a bit of a compromise as its slightly more likely to drag the exhaust on the ground but considering its under the axle the tires should lift the car up over a bump so not too likely to drag. 

 

of course this seemed so much simpler than it ended up being and i hacked the exhaust off right after the x pipe before i even started mocking things up. mufflers didn't fit where i thought they would fit so had to change where i planned on putting them so had to go back near where they originally were but rather than kicking them out towards the sides kept them straight to each other witch then ment i had to kick the exhaust out to the inlets and then kick it back in after the mufflers. being that i don't have a exhaust tubing bender and mandrel bends are hard to come by locally and crush bent pipes get too mishapen in the radius to cut them apart to make custom bends, i ended up just making a couple miter cuts on the metal chop saw to get it to go where i wanted it too. probably not the best for flow but it will work. for now

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got everything mocked in place held together by bailing wire and duct tape 

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then almost as soon as i started spot welding everything after i had things where i wanted them i ran out of mig gas. so i had to throw roll of some flux core wire in the welder. that was fun but after all the joints were spot welded in a couple places dropped the exhaust back out welded it all up and put it on the car for good. 

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after it was all in place and welded in i did end up hitting the lower sections of pipe with some black header paint as if you were far enough back from the car to be able to see under the car the pipes coming from under the diff looked a little funky but the black header paint made them blend right in. 

 

there is still a nice rumble outback but inside the car is actually quiet now. and no more drone on the highway. inside the car you can actually hear the electric fans on the radiator over the exhaust. and now im going to have to fix that very slight leak on the exhaust manifold you could hardly hear before...lol

ill eventually get a full custom bent exhaust made at a exhaust shop for this car but it was still a nice little few hour project that made the car much nicer to drive on the highway. 

 

last of the parts for the supercharger should be here tomorrow according to the tracking. if it does, i may get started on installing that tomorrow afternoon, 

Edited by Ezrider
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got the belt alignment ironed out and then re installed everything, and it had its first test start today. only ran it for a few seconds though as i need to re route my coolant hoses so the radiator wasn't hooked up. lower radiator hose hits the blower pulley, and top hose well would work if the outlet on the thermostat housing was the same size as the old one but the routing wouldn't be very ideal anyway. i think im going to make up some metal radiator hoses tomorrow and then just use a a bit of rubber hose on the ends to make the connections.

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To bad you couldn't flip the thermistat housing 180.

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or if my radiator inlet was on the other side...lol if you flip the thermostat housing around it ends up pointing towards the rear of the engine. i think i might have a clock-able housing in my parts bin somewhere but i don't think it will work with the blower snout. i might have a look tomorrow before i start on the hoses and see. 

still using the jaguar radiator. i planned on upgrading the radiator when i did the engine swap but hooked it up intending just to use it for a few test drives but 2 years later its never got even anywhere even close to running hot so iv never upgraded it. when i eventually get around to doing that my inlets and outlets will be flip flopped put the top inlet on the drivers side and the outlet on the passenger side. because right now both my hoses go to the opposite sides

 

lower hose i think will be simple i think if i just add 6 inches or so to the center it will push the bend in the bottom of the hose out away from the crank pulley. top hose will need to make one bend right out from the thermostat to point it towards the core support.  then go to the core support make a 90 then another 90 into the radiator. i grabbed some small exhaust tubing the same size i need for my radiator hoses today. i think im just gong to chop that up and make a metal hose like you would have on the big truck. it will probably take less time than staring at the wall of hoses at napa trying to pick out things you think might work and then the 10 trips back and forth that follows....lol

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got things buttoned up today fluids full ect, unfortunately all i could do is putt it around. would make 5lbs of boost at around 30% throttle. goose it and it will hit 10psi in the blink of a eye with the over drive pullys on it. i am going to have to order a larger blower pully before i can run it threw its paces. i had boost in mind when i put this engine together but not 10lbs at half throttle...lol iv got the timing set WAY conservative. at about 25 degrees total timing a good dose of octane booster in the tank. even at 25* total timing the throttle response is amazing. if you goose it 1/4 throttle off the line it will spin the tires. even spun them a little rolling in 2nd one time goosing it. cant wait to get the pulley drive ratio down so i can actually give it some throttle and rpm without the boost going higher than i feel comfortable with. 

 

 

 

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You did the hose the way I would have with the pipe. My upper hoses are a plumbing suppliers dream, look in the right side pic of mine.  Mine is a 1 to 6 ratio , about 20 lbs at 1500 rpm  to 50 at 7500. Keep the front wheels up 4 ft in first, bounce down and up about the same in second and bounce down and up about a foot a bit in third. Course the 6:05 locked rear helps quite a bit.  Just don't turn corners with the locked spiders ;)

Mercury Marine 350's run a 90 clocked therm .housing  on most twin apps.

 

Edited by 41chevy

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its 1 1/2 in exaust tubing thats miter cut and welded back together. of course i could only find 1 1/2 inch in exaust tubing in short legths so there is 3 peices to make the upper hose. i could have made it a little prettier by using a few more pie cuts to create more of a radius in the bends, but i still haven't picked up more welding gas yet and tight seal welding thin material with flux core wire is kinda a bitch...lol. im not too worried about my outlets being on opposite sides. at some point ill get a custom or universal radiator to put in it that will solve that problem. 

 

i ordered 2 different top puleys (150 bucks a peice ouch) doing a few calculations and reading some literature on the blower. the blower has a maximum recommended rpm limit of 14k rpm at the blower the pully ratio's i have on it right now would spin it at 16+ at 6k rpm (6k rpm camshaft in the engine) so one blower pulley i ordered should put me at 14k blower rpm at 6k engine rpm with the 7 inch crank pulley. the other one i ordered will be just slightly over driven from the ratio the blower would have originally come with. 

hitting 10 psi at less than half throttle at low rpms with 9.4:1 compression on pump gas with cast pistons makes me a little nervous...lol if i can get it to run 6-7 at wot threw the top end i would be a bit more comfortable. 

 

you got to get some video to post of your Gasser one of these days i gotta see it, sounds like a blast. 

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48 minutes ago, Ezrider said:

its 1 1/2 in exaust tubing thats miter cut and welded back together. of course i could only find 1 1/2 inch in exaust tubing in short legths so there is 3 peices to make the upper hose. i could have made it a little prettier by using a few more pie cuts to create more of a radius in the bends, but i still haven't picked up more welding gas yet and tight seal welding thin material with flux core wire is kinda a bitch...lol. im not too worried about my outlets being on opposite sides. at some point ill get a custom or universal radiator to put in it that will solve that problem. 

 

i ordered 2 different top puleys (150 bucks a peice ouch) doing a few calculations and reading some literature on the blower. the blower has a maximum recommended rpm limit of 14k rpm at the blower the pully ratio's i have on it right now would spin it at 16+ at 6k rpm (6k rpm camshaft in the engine) so one blower pulley i ordered should put me at 14k blower rpm at 6k engine rpm with the 7 inch crank pulley. the other one i ordered will be just slightly over driven from the ratio the blower would have originally come with. 

hitting 10 psi at less than half throttle at low rpms with 9.4:1 compression on pump gas with cast pistons makes me a little nervous...lol if i can get it to run 6-7 at wot threw the top end i would be a bit more comfortable. 

 

you got to get some video to post of your Gasser one of these days i gotta see it, sounds like a blast. 

With my BSC/GMC blower it'll run up to 17500 max but it also has separate oil system for the case bearings. Your set up looks perfect for the street.

 Probably get video Oct 20 at the S.E. Gassers meet in Aiken SC as long at the storm didn't ruin the track.  I'll swap in a set of 4:88's for the 1/4. Mine is a 1/8 car. 

Mine is a brutal car to run 2455 lbs ,no sound deadening, seam sealer most panels are lightened, lexan glass glass nose, doors trunk and rear bumper,  swiss cheese chassis, 5 gals of fuel and the lighted Optima battery I could get.

Edited by 41chevy
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i look forward to seeing that. 

 

im guessing my car should be around 3800 lbs maybe 3750 

 its a very heavy car for its size. defiantly a street car build. if i was going for a drag race car the build would be completely different. i want a fun street car that might go to the drag strip a couple nights a year on non competition days when i started the project. i figured 500-550 hp would be around my target number. really pretty easy to hit that number these days even N/A and probably for about the same money that iv got in this engine now. but i wanted to blow it for the throttle response and the huge torque cure you get on a supercharged engine.

 

there was a "gasser" for sale here locally a few years ago. i had seen it around a bit but never really looked it over very close. i think it was a 56-57 chevy 2dr hard top. they had a straight axle under the front according to the ad it had a bone stock tired 350 in it and i think a th350 trans if i remember right and a old tired paint job on it. they wanted reasonable money for it tho and from a distance looked solid. basically it was a car that was made to look the part of a Gasser a long time ago but never really was a Gasser. i was pretty tempted but never went and looked it over close, to many other projects on my plate already. maybe if i get to the point where i have more money and mostly more time i will build a actual drag car and building a Gasser would probably be within my top 2-3 choices. 

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19 hours ago, Ezrider said:

i look forward to seeing that. 

 

im guessing my car should be around 3800 lbs maybe 3750 

 its a very heavy car for its size. defiantly a street car build. if i was going for a drag race car the build would be completely different. i want a fun street car that might go to the drag strip a couple nights a year on non competition days when i started the project. i figured 500-550 hp would be around my target number. really pretty easy to hit that number these days even N/A and probably for about the same money that iv got in this engine now. but i wanted to blow it for the throttle response and the huge torque cure you get on a supercharged engine.

 

there was a "gasser" for sale here locally a few years ago. i had seen it around a bit but never really looked it over very close. i think it was a 56-57 chevy 2dr hard top. they had a straight axle under the front according to the ad it had a bone stock tired 350 in it and i think a th350 trans if i remember right and a old tired paint job on it. they wanted reasonable money for it tho and from a distance looked solid. basically it was a car that was made to look the part of a Gasser a long time ago but never really was a Gasser. i was pretty tempted but never went and looked it over close, to many other projects on my plate already. maybe if i get to the point where i have more money and mostly more time i will build a actual drag car and building a Gasser would probably be within my top 2-3 choices. 

 My wife and I were putting a 64 Nova together  for her before she died. You might think about it in the future for you top 3 project. I'm never going to touch it. Narrowed 12 bolt posi 3:89,  Speedway gasser clip,with Possies super slide springs, Speedway dropped tube axle withDoug Nash 5 speed ,504 c.i. Cadillac (65 pounds heavier the SBC) dynoed at 619h.p.720 torque on a single 900 cfm Holly 3 barrel carb with Boogieman Heads set to flow heads flow 402 cfm on the intake side and 278 cfm on the exhaust, both at .080 lift, can take up to 1.02 in ch lift. Need tin work on interior and the mini tubs welded in, drive shaft loop and fuel cell... paint if you need it.

Edited by 41chevy
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that sounds like a sweet car as well. i need to get my projects i already have done before i take on a new one. if you still have it when im ready to start a new project i might have to get ahold of you. 

 

actually speaking of driveshaft loop. that's another thing i need to get done before spring on the jag. last car i ran with slicks on the drag strip was a 5.0 mustang and i had a off the shelf bolt on driveshaft loop on it. i seem to remember it being kinda flimsy but they never questioned it at the track. if memory serves it was only like 1/8 inch think maybe 1 inch wide steal. obviously no one makes a off the shelf drive shaft loop for the jaguar project. is there any considerations on construction/design of the driveshaft loop i should take into consideration when i make one

Edited by Ezrider

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 I like it to make mine (not buy the crappy ones, it's my ass on the line) of 1/8"  thick by 3" wide full loop 360 degrees, gusseted flanges to bolt through floor to top plate. IF the front joint fails a 360 will stop the shaft from beating up the trans tunnel even though it's main job is to stop the shaft from going it to the ground. I use Chromium Molybdenum steel with a minimum of 9% Chromium and 2% Moly. Same to work as mild steel same weight but much stronger and the strength is uniform. CroMo is also rust and corrosion resistant. You can MIG it with  75/25 gas with no issues at all. Weld it up than heat the weld area  to dark orange and let cool, that will unstress the weld.

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On 10/20/2018 at 7:51 PM, Ezrider said:

thanks for the tips, that is going to hopfully be a soon project. want to get it ready to hopfully put a time down on a drag strip next spring. 

i got the smaller of the two pullys i bought on it today and got the boost down to 7 psi, really want it more like 5 psi for street driving on 91 octane. still got the timing at 25* total and lots of octane booster in it seems happy so far, my secondary's were way off bumped probably another 10-15 jet sizes up in the secondary and another 4 in the primarys. i think i went up 2 or 4 in the primary's and 7 in the secondary's as well as blocked off the secondary power valve before i ever bolted the carb on the blower.  its got a little bit of a surge in the secondarys and the a/f ratio swings almost 1 whole number with the surge does stabilize out eventually though, i think the blower is creating enough air volocity in the carbs its pulling the  secondary's open faster than the fuel can keep up being there is no accelerator pump on the secondary's. went quite a bit heavier on the secondary spring and that helped quite a bit.  got it to where everything stays nice and rich even on the leaner parts of the swing. would stay between 11.5-12.5. still got some more fiddling to do to try to get it dialed in. 

 

it does good burnouts for distance in 2nd gear now though.....lol

that's bad-ass!

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beautiful car for sure,,,,enjoy it....bob

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2 hours ago, 1965 said:

When was this picture taken; blower cars probably pretty rare then?

That was summer of 1966 at West Hampton Raceway on Long Island New York. Blowers were not really rare on the east coast.  After the SS/X cars hit the scene in 1964 4/71 and 6/71 blowers got the be the hot item. Than again I was it the thick of Motorsports. Up till 1980's we had 4 drag strips, three oval tracks and Bridge Hampton road track. Bill Thomas World Performance, Jack Merkel Racing engines, Baldwin Motion, Speedwin Automotive, S&K Speed who sponsored Tommy Ivo in the late 60's,  Plainview Fords Islander 427 Mustangs, Vitar Racing Automatics and Tobias Modifieds. All on an island 30 miles wide and 100 miles long.  

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that jag is pretty sweet certainly a bit of a mad max vibe going on. 

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15 hours ago, Ezrider said:

that jag is pretty sweet certainly a bit of a mad max vibe going on. 

Notice the rear mags use the factory Jag knock offs?

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i haddn't actually noticed that. i would have thought that would have a straight axle under it. 

 

i actually did some work on getting a proper driveshaft for my jag today. well pulled the one out that i made myself out of the old driveshaft a different yolk on one end welding the slip yolk solid and cutting it to length and then added a sae yolk on one end to get the trans slip yolk on, it worked but  it had a little bit of vibration over 75-80 and i was a bit afraid that it wouldn't hold up to launching with traction. 

found that the actual flange on the rear end was sae even though the u joint was metric, so we were able to find a flange that mates right up and will be a much larger u joint, having the new driveshaft built with some big non grease able u joints. hopefully should have the new driveshaft back in a couple days. 

 

still have a goal of getting it to the drag strip for its first pass in the spring. scaled the car a while back it came in at 3720. engine should make about 400 na running 7 lbs of boost on it could me making as much as about 600 hp. so it could possibly run as fast as very low 11's 

Edited by Ezrider
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