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All painted and back in but it's dark so no picture with it mounted, just painted

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Is the boot that goes over the ball available?

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Also removed the floor mat and padding because the padding was wet.

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Lots of surface rust from some open holes in the roof and a big dent at the back corner of the AC unit. All caulked for now

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On 12/24/2019 at 10:23 PM, Quickfarms said:

Pulled the headliner down and there is nothing obvious

Except a bad roof repair

What should the air horn valve look like? This does not look correct
 

On my H model the valve threads right into the bottom of the horn. Yours looks like a dual horn setup.

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I got the jake brake to work this weekend. The first issue I found was that there were no wires going to the throttle position switch

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After jumping around the switch I still had nothing. So I connected the solenoid wire directly to the battery and they worked. After separating the solenoids and playing with them a few times they were each working a working better . I wonder if it was sticky from not being used for who know how long.

Today the dash switch was working, still with a jumper around the throttle position switch, there is a couple second delay and then the jake brake tries to kill the engine.

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Typical delay, especially at idle.  It takes oil pressure to actuate the Pistons.  Usually first hit on mine takes a few seconds longer then from then on when the system has been fully filled with oil.

It will kill the engine at idle, thus the throttle and clutch switches.

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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On 12/23/2019 at 4:54 PM, Quickfarms said:

It's still leaking in the rain

Any ideas on where to look, I don't see where it is leaking, I just have water on the floor

Are the gaskets for the small lights available

 

first look to see if its leaking at the roof vent or A/C unit. My 77 western had a roof mount AC unit and I ended up having to replace the whole roof sheet metal because of the rust issues it caused.  if no signs of water from the roof I would suspect the rain rail has rusted out someplace and water is running down the A pillar. I have also seen water get in thru the cowl vent and fire wall with all the cables and such that run thru the wall and dont have properly sized grommets. Driver side kick vent is also suspect as it had s rubber seal when the vent is closed

 

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In the photo there is a large cotter pin circled in yellow on the left side. Remove this pin and it runs through the center of a large flat trough. Use a large screwdriver or suitable tool and untread this adjuster plug. The end will pull from the ball stud in the pitman arm attached to the steering gear. The other yellow circle on the right is just a large tie rod end. Remove the cotter pin, loosen the castleated nut till three or four threads remain, and smack the arm this end mounts to with a four pound sledge and it will drop free.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Quickfarms said:

Monday I am going to call garrison to see if they will rebuild the valve since they are local.

How hard is it to rebuild one of these or should I take it to a shop to have it done?

Either have Garrison rebuild your's if they still offer the service, or a new unit. I never had long term success with a reman unit when they were available. It wears internally through use and is not readily rebuildable on a bench. I'm not speaking from direct experience but what I was told years ago.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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If you get a solid hit on the round part of the arm(around the stud) you don't have to hit the nut/stud.  The shock on the arm will dislodge the taper.  Might take a few whacks.

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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That's the way I've always done it and you won't damage anything. Four pound sledge usually makes it a "One Smack" affair.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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The draglink end is still stuck on the pitman arm and has not budged. I smacked the side with the 4lb and nothing. I then flipped the castle nut and hit it repeatedly and still nothing. I even tried some heat and that did is make the grease smoke

Any ideas?

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The good news is I was able to unscrew the control valve by hand after removing the clamp

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This afternoon the control valve was delivered to garrison for rebuild or remanufacure.

They said almost all the parts are still available. If the valve is leaking through the spool they said usually the bore cannot be honed and must be replaced

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Rarely do they fall off easily, unless they have been off "recently".  I see the flat spot on the top edge, try deeper around the center, and work around the side that is accessible.  It will come, just need to get that one lucky hit.  I went through this when I swapped on the air steering parts to my truck.  After 50 years, things get stuck pretty tight.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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