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carlotpilot

440 chrysler

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12 hours ago, keg1 said:

I just got my 78 Dodge pickup with 440 state inspected last Friday first time in six years and went to drive it to work on Tuesday and motor came apart. Haven't had time to look at it but pieces are sticking through the oil pan.

ouch  someding wong

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Rod bolts are a notorious weakness on non Hi-Po big blocks. I personally always replace when I get an older 383 or 440. Non H-Po Chrysler went down in rod bolt shank diameter for some reason and than knurled it to fit the bolt hole in the rods.

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Pulled motor out today. Took pan off, a pushrod, some lifter pieces, other small pieces and about a 3 inch chunk of cam fell out. The block is also vented like the pan. I think a 2 pack of jb weld and I'll be good to go.

Edited by keg1
Added more

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After the JB Weld, you can smooth out the job with a gallon of All Metal....

all metal.jpg

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add a couple sticks of silver solder for the cam

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17 hours ago, carlotpilot said:

add a couple sticks of silver solder for the cam

I'd Fire up the old stick welder and burn  the cam back together.  If you can get to it, keep it in the block so its held straight by the bearings.  

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Ohhhh, geez.  That's BAD news.   Nothing much worse then when the motor gods lets you see the rotating assembly from the OUTSIDE of the engine.

 

My local shop dynoed a motor just a month or so back.  Big Hemi motor built by someone else.   They fired it up, made some baseline pulls.  BAM!!!, rod came out the oil pan.  They did a little looking and seems the assembler didn't get around to torquing all the rods?   OOOHHH man.  All the shop could do is wheel all the broken parts back to the guys pickup truck.

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have not had time to mess with mine anymore maybe in a day or two i`ll get back into it

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23 hours ago, keg1 said:

Pulled motor out today. Took pan off, a pushrod, some lifter pieces, other small pieces and about a 3 inch chunk of cam fell out. The block is also vented like the pan. I think a 2 pack of jb weld and I'll be good to go.

you don`t suppose you had a similar oil problem?

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I never really did much with tearing into engines mainly because I don't know what I'm doing. Not that it matters but is there a way to know what went wrong first, cam broke and then rod broke or other way around?

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2 hours ago, keg1 said:

I never really did much with tearing into engines mainly because I don't know what I'm doing. Not that it matters but is there a way to know what went wrong first, cam broke and then rod broke or other way around?

Lay a bet the rod left first and the cam ran after it.Look at the rod bolts for bending or shearing. Mopar cams as a rule do not fail by breaking on their own.  I can probably dig out a good short block 440 TNT engine, if I go home to look. Haven't been there since my wife died, should see if it's still o.k. .

Edited by 41chevy

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Ok thanks just curious as to what might have happened

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On 6/11/2018 at 1:20 PM, Freightrain said:

Ohhhh, geez.  That's BAD news.   Nothing much worse then when the motor gods lets you see the rotating assembly from the OUTSIDE of the engine.

 

My local shop dynoed a motor just a month or so back.  Big Hemi motor built by someone else.   They fired it up, made some baseline pulls.  BAM!!!, rod came out the oil pan.  They did a little looking and seems the assembler didn't get around to torquing all the rods?   OOOHHH man.  All the shop could do is wheel all the broken parts back to the guys pickup truck.

The motor gods got tired of being in the dark inside that engine and just wanted a window to peek out of. 

Truck Shop

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2 hours ago, keg1 said:

Ok thanks just curious as to what might have happened

This is a 440 that was destroyed  by the rod breaking mid point, the piece on the crank spun around and broke the cam in 3 pieces. Look at the last photo, the rod and wrist pin  are still on the crank but not in their original cylinder.

2v2JTqBt5xAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

2v2JTqBWLxAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

2v2JTqBjgxAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

2v2JTqB7rxAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

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                                The B/RB blocks and cranks were pretty good but it is a engine that needs a set of Eagle Rods if your going to run one a little hard. At least a set of ARP rod bolts then have the

                                 housing bores checked on the rods.

 

                                 Truck Shop 

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2 hours ago, Truck Shop said:

                                The B/RB blocks and cranks were pretty good but it is a engine that needs a set of Eagle Rods if your going to run one a little hard. At least a set of ARP rod bolts then have the

                                 housing bores checked on the rods.

 

                                 Truck Shop 

 That was a stock 1979 440, 150,000 plus miles given a 200 h.p. NOX shot to kill it.

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                                  Ah Ha! Laughing gas. How many shots of NOX had that engine been exposed to before it went poof? Probably several. 😉

 

                                  Truck Shop

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55 minutes ago, Truck Shop said:

                                  Ah Ha! Laughing gas. How many shots of NOX had that engine been exposed to before it went poof? Probably several. 😉

 

                                  Truck Shop

Every time it went up against a BOWTYIE! 

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2 hours ago, Truck Shop said:

                                  Ah Ha! Laughing gas. How many shots of NOX had that engine been exposed to before it went poof? Probably several. 😉

 

                                  Truck Shop

Only one 12.8 lb full bottle at the point of valve float,  burned up two Continental  radials and burned two big holes in the asphalt.

Edited by 41chevy
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