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Rob

Mack Drive Housings:

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I have a set of Mack drive axles in 3.87 ratio on best I can tell Neway ARD244-6 suspension. It appears the suspensions can be separated and run separately with little work. My question is can a Mack rear rear differential go into the housing that currently has a front rear drive? Never have tried it myself and it may save a bit of trial and error if someone else has does this swap. I'd like to run two separate single drive suspensions out of this current tandem setup in two different trucks.

I can air arc the brackets from a current Mack rear with camelback suspension but that would be a lot of work and cleanup if it can be circumvented using what I have on hand.

 

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I'll be interested to hear the answer...on my 1960 camelback, the housings look the same and it would make sense that they would be interchangeable.

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Does your housing use the 10, or or later style18 bolt, (IIRC) retaining flange? My 58 uses the 10 bolt style so will need to either redrill and tap, or replace if it remains tandem. The 5.05 ratio in it is far too low for what I'll do with the truck. The B-67ST, (1962) uses the later style.

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All I can tell you is those are a heavy and unbalanced thing to manhandle so hopefully someone knows the answer without the labor involved. Changed a bunch of them in years gone by but I was young, dumb, and full then so didn't mind experimenting. Not so much any longer as old age and senility has crept up.....

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Posted (edited)

cleanup

 

Edited by Rob
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No part numbers stamped into the housings?      Paul

 

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28 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

No part numbers stamped into the housings?      Paul

 

Don't really know as not done anything with it since 2012 when the photos were taken. It's out back of the shop and I'll have to machette down the overgrowth to extract it.

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I've never seen any difference in front to back housings, should be fine. 

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21 hours ago, Rob said:

Does your housing use the 10, or or later style18 bolt, (IIRC) retaining flange? My 58 uses the 10 bolt style so will need to either redrill and tap, or replace if it remains tandem. The 5.05 ratio in it is far too low for what I'll do with the truck. The B-67ST, (1962) uses the later style.

You mean where the chunk bolts into the top of the axle housing? I'll have to look at mine to count the bolts.

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I've had several apart at the same time in years gone by but never thought to check the layout pattern for any differences. I've even drilled older housings to accept later carriers but being almost 35 years in the past I'm certain I'm forgetting a few things. The Mack differentials are unbalanced much the same as Rockwell but not bad once you fabricate a jig to support them on a shop crane. 

I'll be looking for part number stampings pretty shortly as when it starts to warm outdoors, I'll want to get busy. Got lots of stuff out back to sort and some to be rid of.

This retirement scenario is not setting to well with me as feeling lazy with no deadlines, schedules, assignments, etc. Going to need to get busy in the shop or find a job.....

Those newer housings are 16 bolt retention and not 18 as the mind slowly continues to engage with trucks.

 

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Went out to the shop and looked at these axles. No problems seen to make two separate single drives out of it. Got a couple sappling trees to cut out of the frame to move it but it's muddy back there as things continue to thaw out. Looked over an old parts R model too and need to figure what I want to keep off of it prior to cutting it up. Planning to incorporate it's rear brakes onto one of the trucks being rid of the rotochambers. It's quite rusty and picked over pretty good. Finally fixed two slow leaking tires on my white R model too. Both were leaking valve stems at the rim mounts. Old rubber I suppose. 

Oh well the start of another day in paradise. Got to do something being unemployed to stay busy right?

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Been digging into this suspension, (books wise) and it's not a bad one to rebuild at all. Parts however look to be heavy.  Need to ascertain the measurements of the hangers being either 5.25", or 5.75" wide, and the bolts the suspension swings on either 1.125", or 1.250". I assume it's the former but will look to measure later today to be certain. All parts are readily available though local suppliers and not really out of sight pricing. Seen a lot of Neway suspension run to the point of destroying itself but not really the case with this one as no bushings are actually worn through and splitting out. There is cracking, but they are all intact that I can see. By the time everything is out of the hot tank, blasted clean, and then repainted Mack red, or green, it should look pretty good.

The tandem set is originally out of a "Cruiseliner" but I don't remember the year. 1979, and 1982 comes to mind but I'm not certain, nor are there any tags which are long gone.

 

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Posted (edited)

If you are bored....this is my current project at work.  4 axis retrofit.  Removing 25 yr old AB stuff for new Centroid.  Everything is about 1/3 the size.  Got all the main hardware installed...now it is wiring.  Lots and lots of wiring.

IMG_20180312_095305274.jpg

IMG_20180314_151058506.jpg

 

In about 4 hours we had it gutted and all the motors off.   On day four all the new motors are on, cables pulled.  Now it is tedious work.


About two years ago I put a complete 4 axis Centroid on our old gear machine.   Took about 8 months of random working on it.  A executive decision was made that "I" was going to retrofit the big mill.   Gee,...glad everyone things I'm that good.  I told them approx 2 weeks to complete.   I'm hoping close to that.

Edited by Freightrain
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Yup. Newer components and IEC stuff is much smaller. However that being said, you are not going to get the newer to outlast the dated Allen-Bradley by any means. I've worked with a lot of it. The wiring really isn't difficult with a good point to point print. I'm almost color blind so never relied upon that at all but knowing how to ring wires and follow an engineering drawing, then t/s it's incorrectness is where it all lies. Never have retrofitted machine tools myself but have worked  plenty in drives being both AC, and DC.

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Rob you better pace yourself.   If your digging into this many projects this soon from retirement you gonna have the man gods upset with you.    Make sure you include enough procrastination time to keep them happy.    

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Posted (edited)

cleanup

 

 

 

 

Edited by Rob

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For sure on the longevity of this new Chinese stuff.  But it was $150k cheaper and that makes the owner much happier!

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These rears are 3.65 ratio, not 3.87 as I was told as per the pad stampings. Didn't get them cleaned up as planned as worked on a hydraulic pumping system most of the day. Noticeable change in temperature outside too going from 55 degrees yesterday, to 41 today. 

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8 minutes ago, Rob said:

These rears are 3.65 ratio, not 3.87 as I was told as per the pad stampings. Didn't get them cleaned up as planned as worked on a hydraulic pumping system most of the day. Noticeable change in temperature outside too going from 55 degrees yesterday, to 41 today. 

3.65's will be a real runner!   terry:thumb:

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2 minutes ago, terry said:

3.65's will be a real runner!   terry:thumb:

I've been seriously considering an automatic which is direct and not an overdriven trans. My wife says she would drive one if it were an automatic. This ratio would still give good road speed.

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rob what are you doing with that cut off?

Edit: I just saw you are going to try and make 2 air ride set ups out of the tandem. If that does not go as planned I might be interested in it minus the diffs

 

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Hi Trent. I run across these from time to time and next one I see I'll get in touch. Pretty certain this will fit the bill for my needs now as planned. Any particular brand of cutoff you are looking for? Are you specific on Mack rears or are vendor axles alright?

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Pissing around with this cutoff tonight and everything is going to be "heat and beat" to get it apart. 3/4" impact doesn't want to budge some fasteners till they snap off. Not enough room for my 1" impact wrench but some torch work for clearance will be the ticket here. The slider 5th wheel looks to be a swap from another truck as it's a real cobble job. Very rough torch cuts to clear encumbrances while mounting. 5th wheel looks to have good jaws so may keep it if the air system works. I was playing with the suspension a bit tonight and the air valve reacts immediately to changes in height. Probably been sitting too long to be counted on as dependable but it really surprises me it actually still works.

Took a knotted wire wheel on a disc grinder to the front differential to clean the pad. They are 3.65 gears unless the gearsets themselves have been changed as they are stamped in the normal place:

20180316_191142_resized.thumb.jpg.057d959dbde86260830e92e929f8c54d.jpg

 

No luck with finding numbers on the back side of the rear rear housing identifying the suspension. Pretty crusty in places so the search will continue.

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