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RobM626

Vibration that 2 mechanics and Mack dealer can’t figure out

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The one in the Bronx has been around for years if it is the one with the same chassis machine as Dutchman Diesel.

Either way, with the time and money you have invested to this point having a reputable shop give you their opinion on it can't hurt and you will know exactly where you stand with it.

As for the 2020 thing, I do a lot of County, State and Federal seawall and break water work at their park sites and was told for NYS Metro area contract bidding for government jobs , 2008 and newer equipment is required. Has to do with funding sources among other things.

Edited by 41chevy

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2 hours ago, 41chevy said:

The one in the Bronx has been around for years if it is the one with the same chassis machine as Dutchman Diesel.

Either way, with the time and money you have invested to this point having a reputable shop give you their opinion on it can't hurt and you will know exactly where you stand with it.

As for the 2020 thing, I do a lot of County, State and Federal seawall and break water work at their park sites and was told for NYS Metro area contract bidding for government jobs , 2008 and newer equipment is required. Has to do with funding sources among other things.

Yea I guess your right ... the place I was referred to in the Bronx is textron. I’m gonna find out if they have that beeline machine.

as far as the emissions goes, I heard that city and state work implemented that requirement a while ago. I picked up a couple of nice pieces of equipment for a bargain from guys that could no longer use it doing city and state work. The loader that hit my truck was one of them lol. 90% of my work is subcontracted through Con Edison and is in the 5 boroughs of the city. They havent required us to change yet but like I said I think it’s coming 2020. I dont wanna get stuck with like 5 trucks that I have a decent amount of Money invested in and not be able to use them or sell them because the local market will probably be flooded with them.

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On 8/19/2018 at 6:54 AM, RobM626 said:

 It has to be something with how the clutch and transmission are lining up. It changes constantly throughout the day. The clutch will go a lot softer than usual and when that happens it feels like the power/torque isn’t going to the wheels. The take off from stop also sucks when that happens and the vibration gets worst. Then all of a sudden I’ll be driving and the clutch will get nice and firm again and it feels more torquey and the clunk when I press and release accelerator doesn’t appear as much.

FFS , your clutch is binding , thats why your clutch aint lasting two tenths of SFA as its slipping when it's as soft as a custard tart(hence the shudder etc) 

The couple of lines of info you shared here is pretty important stuff  

 

Is the clutch cable, hydraulic, mechanical or air assist ????

Paul

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That’s exactly what it feels like. Every time I try to explain that to the guys that work on it they don’t get it... the linkage is mechanical. How does it bind? And 5 clutches?

sorry for all the questions but what’s FFS AND SFA?

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How does it bind, I dunno with out looking my self 

It sounds like tbe clutch isnt fully returning when you take your foot off the clutch

Im thinking it is something between the out side of the box and the clutch pedal and maybe as simple as a build  up of dirt and rust on a pivot 

I would completely disassemble all the linkages and make sure all are as free as can be a slide silky smooth

Check all linkage adjustments and make sure nothing is traveling over center

I would imagine there are very definate measurements for each adjustment 

No doubt someone here can help with that info

 

FFS means for fu ks sake and SFA means sweet fu k all

 

Very common day to day speaking in Australia 

 

 

Paul 

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Up until recently when Mack has gone to air assist clutches Macks have mostly used mechanical clutch linkages for decades with no binding problems. But when the frame is weakened by rust binding could become a problem. No point in messing with the clutch linkage until the powertrain has a solid frame to mount too, and a new frame may not be worth it on an 18 year old truck.

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13 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

How does it bind, I dunno with out looking my self 

It sounds like tbe clutch isnt fully returning when you take your foot off the clutch

Im thinking it is something between the out side of the box and the clutch pedal and maybe as simple as a build  up of dirt and rust on a pivot 

I would completely disassemble all the linkages and make sure all are as free as can be a slide silky smooth

Check all linkage adjustments and make sure nothing is traveling over center

I would imagine there are very definate measurements for each adjustment 

No doubt someone here can help with that info

 

FFS means for fu ks sake and SFA means sweet fu k all

 

Very common day to day speaking in Australia 

 

 

Paul 

Thank you ... will be looking into it ASAP. 

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15 minutes ago, Maxidyne said:

Up until recently when Mack has gone to air assist clutches Macks have mostly used mechanical clutch linkages for decades with no binding problems. But when the frame is weakened by rust binding could become a problem. No point in messing with the clutch linkage until the powertrain has a solid frame to mount too, and a new frame may not be worth it on an 18 year old truck.

I hate those air assist clutches. They’re so mushy and the take off on the sucks in my opinion at least. I had an air leak on my granite and could not move the truck until I had like 90psi. I know you shouldn’t be driving until your tanks are full but when your pouring concrete and you need to constantly move the truck to pour a trench and your air bag on your drop axel is leaking and takes almost 2 weeks to get a new one, it takes forever to build 90psi.

headache headaches headaches with this truck. It’s a shame all this money in it and I can’t get it running right

 

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1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

Left me wondering about the soft custard tart? Long as the Austrailians don’t nasty it  up with a vegemite-secret-center i’d be eating a few. 

Lol

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On 8/22/2018 at 5:47 AM, RobM626 said:

Thank you ... will be looking into it ASAP. 

 

On 8/22/2018 at 5:32 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

How does it bind, I dunno with out looking my self 

It sounds like tbe clutch isnt fully returning when you take your foot off the clutch

Im thinking it is something between the out side of the box and the clutch pedal and maybe as simple as a build  up of dirt and rust on a pivot 

I would completely disassemble all the linkages and make sure all are as free as can be a slide silky smooth

Check all linkage adjustments and make sure nothing is traveling over center

I would imagine there are very definate measurements for each adjustment 

No doubt someone here can help with that info

 

FFS means for fu ks sake and SFA means sweet fu k all

 

Very common day to day speaking in Australia 

 

 

Paul 

You said the clutch shafts are fairly new But  How old is your Clutch cable ?  If its old replace it!!! At this point if it sounds like a slipping clutch it likely is a slipping clutch In my mind the only  things you haven't changed here are the clutch pedal and the cable Never seen a clutch pedal siezed to the shaft anything is possible I guess ! I have seen clutch cables cause grief And we are Grasping At straws At this point! Also a thought here! Have you tried locking out the power divider? Is there a possibility that there is a striped axle gear and it is grabbing and slipping intermittently! When this post  first started when were focusing on the engine cause it happened all the while the engine ran ? Now we are looking at the frame? and under power? I am Officially confused ! 😣 

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Sounds to me like a marred up input shaft. Shaft gets marred and the clutch catches on it. That's why it's always good practice to shift using your clutch at least once. Your friction discs will jerk and rock on the input shaft. Using the clutch prevents that. Input shaft could also have a slight twist in it. 

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16 minutes ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Sounds to me like a marred up input shaft. Shaft gets marred and the clutch catches on it. That's why it's always good practice to shift using your clutch at least once. Your friction discs will jerk and rock on the input shaft. Using the clutch prevents that. Input shaft could also have a slight twist in it. 

Yup that is a possible  cause how ever you would think after AS many clutches and look sees this unit has under gone  someone would have at least mentioned the shaft had some wear to it, but also knowing the lack of caring ( don't give a shit attitude) a lot  of society has today ! I  guess its possible it has been overlooked! Like I said I'm confused!

On 8/22/2018 at 5:47 AM, RobM626 said:

Thank you ... will be looking into it ASAP. 

 

Edited by fjh

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On 8/23/2018 at 11:28 AM, fjh said:

 

You said the clutch shafts are fairly new But  How old is your Clutch cable ?  If its old replace it!!! At this point if it sounds like a slipping clutch it likely is a slipping clutch In my mind the only  things you haven't changed here are the clutch pedal and the cable Never seen a clutch pedal siezed to the shaft anything is possible I guess ! I have seen clutch cables cause grief And we are Grasping At straws At this point! Also a thought here! Have you tried locking out the power divider? Is there a possibility that there is a striped axle gear and it is grabbing and slipping intermittently! When this post  first started when were focusing on the engine cause it happened all the while the engine ran ? Now we are looking at the frame? and under power? I am Officially confused ! 😣 

Clutch cable is original, was never changed.

i tried locking out power divider because rears croased my mind too. When I do it I feel more power but i still have the clutch issues.unless the slipping axel gear is messing up my clutches. When the post first started. The vibration was my issue and I always felt like it was somewhere between the flywheel and the transmission. The weird thing is is that every time they pull the tranny and put it back on all of the symptoms disappear  for like a week or so then come back all at the same time., which made me think it was all related. The problems even change throughout the whole day. It will change according to the load in carrying, the distribution of the load. Sometimes when I start the truck in the morning after not using it a couple days it drives better then goes back to the same thing after driving an hour or so... I’ve never felt or experienced anything like this with any other truck I’ve driven. It’s so crazy 

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On 8/23/2018 at 11:45 AM, Dirtymilkman said:

Sounds to me like a marred up input shaft. Shaft gets marred and the clutch catches on it. That's why it's always good practice to shift using your clutch at least once. Your friction discs will jerk and rock on the input shaft. Using the clutch prevents that. Input shaft could also have a slight twist in it. 

I changed an input shaft on the old transmission and it didn’t make a difference. It was t even damaged. And now this input shaft is new on a reman transmission. I had it sent back to the rebuilder and he check the whole transmission out and said it was fine. I even saw it and to my eyes it didn’t look like anything was wrong.

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So what's happened to this here jigger ?

Did yah get the truck sorted yet ?

 

Paul

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On 10/22/2018 at 4:57 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

So what's happened to this here jigger ?

Did yah get the truck sorted yet ?

 

Paul

I went in to a shop explained that I felt like clutch was binding. He “adjusted it”. I left and it felt 10times worst... so I went back to the shop that last did the work and he took me under the truck and showed me the cable was completely destroyed. And the guy the adjusted clutch screwed it even worst. I put a new cable in . It feels a lot better but I think this clutch is shot now... I really don’t have money for another clutch job. Gonna ride it out and see what happens... u were right about the binding though... thank you for that

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That's great news that it is fixed by the sounds of it 

 

Its a shame it has taken so long and so much money was thrown at it before it was sorted, but none of this matters now as the truck is going again

 

Paul 

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Butt

 

iz it fixed

can we close the book on this problem

n can the jury B now dissmissed

LOL

cya

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2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

That's great news that it is fixed by the sounds of it 

 

Its a shame it has taken so long and so much money was thrown at it before it was sorted, but none of this matters now as the truck is going again

 

Paul 

Doesn't sound like it's fixed to me,I would love to drive this truck to see/feel what your experiencing,..

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54 minutes ago, MACKS said:

Doesn't sound like it's fixed to me,I would love to drive this truck to see/feel what your experiencing,..

Yea me too! Where r u located lol?

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55 minutes ago, Swishy said:

Butt

 

iz it fixed

can we close the book on this problem

n can the jury B now dissmissed

LOL

cya

It’s not “fixed” but i gotta deal with it for now...I don’t know where else to look. Jury can take a sabbatical lol

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3 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

That's great news that it is fixed by the sounds of it 

 

Its a shame it has taken so long and so much money was thrown at it before it was sorted, but none of this matters now as the truck is going again

 

Paul 

It feels a lot better than it did with a broken clutch cable but I think I’m gonna have to do a clutch job... AGAIN...I’m bringing the truck in for a 3 axel alignment sometime in next couple weeks. I’m gonna talk to owner at shop and see if he’ll warranty the clutch for me. Worth a shot. We’ll see... he knows what I went thru with this truck. 

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