RobM626 Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 53 minutes ago, fjh said: HA you think you got problems now! Good luck with your new acquisition don't get rid of your old one the vibration issue will be a non issue comparatively speaking! IMO! of coase! Lol I know.. this truck is actually an 08 granite with an mp7. The mileage is reallllyy low. Only 50,000 miles . It’s a volumetric concrete mixer . I some some threads about doing a delete I was looking into otrperformace . Maybe that will alleviate some future headaches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 On 3/28/2018 at 7:11 AM, RobM626 said: The chop starts around 900 when descending. And smoothed out once it returns to idle . The vibration I have is throughout the rpm range I feel it the most around 1000-1100. It’s like a pulse. You can hear/feel it traveling through the transmission too. It’s like Like a wobble . The dash does not shake as bad as it used to since I changed pto, but the mirrors are hard to see clearly out of because of the vibration. the truck does have 30,509 hours . Without a doubt that truck worked. But like I said before, the way it’s behaving isn’t normal. I know things get old and can’t be New forever. But having to replace the clutch so many times I’m such a short time and basically everything else connected in that area. Something just isn’t right down there. I’m determined to get to the bottom of it. After you guys asked me those questions if I was sure it wasn’t normal harmonics I got In a few other RD’s that are similar age and not nearly in the condition of mine and they don’t sound and feel like mine does. That truck used to be a pleasure to drive. Now I get out at the end of the day and I need a bottle of Advil from my head pulsating lol when was the last time you looked at the motor mount pads 30.000 hrs`they could be getting thin` steel to steel will cause all sorts of problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 2 hours ago, carlotpilot said: when was the last time you looked at the motor mount pads 30.000 hrs`they could be getting thin` steel to steel will cause all sorts of problems They’re new. Maybe 9 months old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 3 hours ago, RobM626 said: They’re new. Maybe 9 months old. just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 On 4/11/2018 at 12:10 PM, fjh said: HA you think you got problems now! Good luck with your new acquisition don't get rid of your old one the vibration issue will be a non issue comparatively speaking! IMO! of coase! Andddd it begins! Fuel primer was had a leak so they replaced it and it’s still losing prime. Now they’re saying I need injector cups and injectors. They also found an air leak that they fixed for a grand total of 7,000. And I didn’t even register the truck yet. I hope these repairs will solve the problem and the truck can get to work and make some money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurstscrambler Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 That sucks to hear, do you have any recourse with whoever you purchased the truck from? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 2 hours ago, hurstscrambler said: That sucks to hear, do you have any recourse with whoever you purchased the truck from? Andy I’m in the process of trying to work something out. The guy “assured”us the truck was in “perfect” condition. We’ll see what happens. I hope he’s a stand up guy. And I hope this mack dealer is better than my local dealer at diagnosing and doing repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 13 hours ago, RobM626 said: I’m in the process of trying to work something out. The guy “assured”us the truck was in “perfect” condition. We’ll see what happens. I hope he’s a stand up guy. And I hope this mack dealer is better than my local dealer at diagnosing and doing repairs. We will see how that goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobert62 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 (edited) Was it Susquehanna Motors? I'm guessing they are about 60 miles east of Lamar. Company I worked for bought a bunch of trucks "Macks" and trailers "greatdane" from them over the years. Edited April 14, 2018 by Hobert62 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Unfortunately if the injector cup issue is an on going thing and has been for years on all HP ratings of these engines up to this last ear the change to common rail seems to have changed things (HOWEVER ) the jury is still out on these. so far do good. in our area for the common rail ,WE Will SEE! I am not holding my breath!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 10 hours ago, Hobert62 said: Was it Susquehanna Motors? I'm guessing they are about 60 miles east of Lamar. Company I worked for bought a bunch of trucks "Macks" and trailers "greatdane" from them over the years. The truck is at legacy mack getting the work done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 9 hours ago, fjh said: Unfortunately if the injector cup issue is an on going thing and has been for years on all HP ratings of these engines up to this last ear the change to common rail seems to have changed things (HOWEVER ) the jury is still out on these. so far do good. in our area for the common rail ,WE Will SEE! I am not holding my breath!. I heard the same . They just changed to common rail last year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 On April 11, 2018 at 9:54 AM, RobM626 said: I change the air filter every oil change which is about every 300-400 hours. It’s usually every 3 months. Every time I change them they’re always pretty clean but I do it anyway.the compressor however is original on the truck so I’m gonna just change it. Your wasting your time and money,don't change the air filter until the restriction gage is in the red.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 48 minutes ago, MACKS said: Your wasting your time and money,don't change the air filter until the restriction gage is in the red.. The restriction gauge stopped working years ago. I guess I can replace it but I figured the truck is constantly in dirty/dusty environments so might as well take a little extra precaution on preventative maintenance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 20 hours ago, RobM626 said: The restriction gauge stopped working years ago. I guess I can replace it but I figured the truck is constantly in dirty/dusty environments so might as well take a little extra precaution on preventative maintenance According to Mack you do more harm then good by un necessary air filter changes,just passing it along.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 That’s the first for me on more harm than good on an air filter change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post farmer52 Posted April 15, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted April 15, 2018 30 minutes ago, MACKS said: According to Mack you do more harm then good by un necessary air filter changes,just passing it along.. 25 minutes ago, 1965 said: That’s the first for me on more harm than good on an air filter change Filters become more efficient as they "catch" material. The pores get smaller and therefore stop more material. Have a working restriction indicator per MACKS. 3 Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) 48 minutes ago, 1965 said: Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy With dry filter elements no matter the media, engineering data supports the aged filter better at filtration than a new one as referenced. It's why an oiled prefilter is installed onto small engines which operate in usually extreme dusty conditions. I'm citing your power lawn mower for instance. You can do the same on a dump truck but the service interval would be short. Definitely get a filter restriction gauge installed. This is a cheap representation of a "manometer" as all filters are rated at a certain restriction level, (resistance to free airflow) to be considered "plugged", or needing replaced. Edited April 15, 2018 by Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 25 minutes ago, 1965 said: Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy It is just a fact of life...as a filter plugs it becomes more efficient. I am not saying a new/clean filter is harmful. You can change it more often and incur added maintenance expense or use the restriction indicator to let you know when to change the air filer thus optimizing filter life and reducing maintenance cost. Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 I guess it makes sense... the filters definately aren’t cheap. I’ll extend the intervals longer. mack really knows what they’re doing when it comes to those stupid plastic nuts that hold the top of the air cleaner closed on the RD.. I must have to replace those nuts like twice a year. That adds like another $120 to the maintenance cost lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 7 minutes ago, RobM626 said: I guess it makes sense... the filters definately aren’t cheap. I’ll extend the intervals longer. mack really knows what they’re doing when it comes to those stupid plastic nuts that hold the top of the air cleaner closed on the RD.. I must have to replace those nuts like twice a year. That adds like another $120 to the maintenance cost lol Replace them one time with these be done with it. Coat the threads with some type of coating, (Vaseline works well) before you install the nuts. Those are a Donaldson thing, not Mack. Yes, the plastic likes to either twist the nut out, or fracture. The older ones were metal. https://www.mcmaster.com/#=1cfh8zs Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobM626 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Rob said: Replace them one time with these be done with it. Coat the threads with some type of coating, (Vaseline works well) before you install the nuts. Those are a Donaldson thing, not Mack. Yes, the plastic likes to either twist the nut out, or fracture. The older ones were metal. https://www.mcmaster.com/#=1cfh8zs The link brings me to a main page. Which nut should I search for to use for replacement of the plastic nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 On 4/11/2018 at 8:58 AM, RobM626 said: I know right . I’m hoping I’m getting somewhere with fixing this thing. I’m still going back and forth with the shop about the clutch flywheel issue. I really feel like they’re trying to cover something up and don’t wanna drop the tranny again . I just ordered another truck for a different business venture and on the way to New York from Iowa the truck broke down in Pennsylvania. I didn’t even get the truck yet and it’s giving me problems already!!!! I can only imagine the grief that one will cause me! Whadja get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) 6 minutes ago, RobM626 said: The link brings me to a main page. Which nut should I search for to use for replacement of the plastic nuts? Sorry about that. Try this. Look for high stainless cap nuts in your proper thread size. See if this one will take you there: https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi6m6 If not, try this one: https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi5z2 Edited April 16, 2018 by Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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