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Are loose R model doors very easily rebuilt or tightened up?  I've seen some trucks that the door just shakes in its frame as you drive down the road.  I didn't know how hard it was to remove this slop in the hinges and/or related assemblies.  That is one thing I like about old Pete's with their piano hinged doors... they do seem to be less prone to slop.  Any thoughts?  Thanks!

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most times it found it was the striker or door latch not adjusted right. but if left to rattle over the years the hinges needed to be replaced due to the slop in them....the later style latch was a better design in my opinion.

 

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Every RD we have at work the doors rattle in the jambs I have tried everything to adjust the rattle out it I have learned to just turn up the radio so I cant hear it they all have the newer style latch.

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I'm going through this right now with the 78 I drive at work.  Replaced the cab side latch and it was quiet for a day and then the rattle came back, just not as bad.  The door side mechanism is missing one screw, but the other two are tight so I don't think there's much movement there.  I used the paint line from the old latch to line up the new one and the door closes tight and is a little tough to open at times, but I still get a rattle.

 

Theres no radio in this truck either!

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I hate rattles, but been living with them for 15 yrs with my truck.  My drivers door closes too tight to rattle.  The passenger door just clicks closed with no effort, so it has a rattle on rough roads.  I think it is something in the seal groove that is sticking out and touching the door as it moves.  My rubber seals are long gone, and need replaced.  I would hope new rubber would tighten things up.

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When I rebuilt my cab I replaced the rubber seal around the door with rubberized foam 

Seals better and no rattles

Also when I replaced the carpet panels on the lower door they press on the gusset in the lower corners of the door opening

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I think they went to a cheaper hollow door gasket some I saw that were original was a solid closed cell rubber they hold the door and the door edge does not cut through them. I replaced the one on the passenger door with this type of foam rubber and it works much better just cant find the stuff in a long enough length to do it in one solid run.

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30 minutes ago, C609T said:

What year did they change to the new style latch ? 

Around 1979.

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On 12/12/2017 at 1:58 PM, ranchhopper said:

I think they went to a cheaper hollow door gasket some I saw that were original was a solid closed cell rubber they hold the door and the door edge does not cut through them. I replaced the one on the passenger door with this type of foam rubber and it works much better just cant find the stuff in a long enough length to do it in one solid run.

Try McMaster-Carr,Kevin. I bought  door seals for  a Peterbilt  bunk,for a fraction  of what Paccar wanted. Bulk lengths too. Al

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7 hours ago, 57 bcr said:

Try McMaster-Carr,Kevin. I bought  door seals for  a Peterbilt  bunk,for a fraction  of what Paccar wanted. Bulk lengths too. Al

What do you search for?   They have so much stuff and I have so little patience I usually can't find it there 

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8 hours ago, 57 bcr said:

Try McMaster-Carr,Kevin. I bought  door seals for  a Peterbilt  bunk,for a fraction  of what Paccar wanted. Bulk lengths too. Al

I tried them hard to match up size but I did find some closed cell solid rubber gasket material that worked great couldn't get it in the right length had to add to it.

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