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Wheel lift toter


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The wheel lift has changed the equation on wreckers, especially heavy truck wreckers! When I was in the towing business in the early 70s we used a sling to prevent damage when cars and light trucks had steel bumpers ! The wheel lift became necessary with the fiberglass front end like corvettes camaro, etc,and then the rubber front front ends on everything including big trucks! The lever arm principle teamster Grrrl mentioned is mostly applicable on a "boom type" wrecker like a Holmes 850 the newer ones have a wheel lift as well, but use the split booms for winching! A short or "shorter" wheelbase wrecker with a wheel lift or  even a boom will actually lift the steering tires with a heavy load! I once hauled a 50s Gmc dump ( road tractor spec chassis) with a 40 series Chevy wrecker to the scrap yard and every time we hit a bump the steering tires would leave the ground! My helper and I had to lean up against the windshield to turn into the scrap yard! Unsafe as hell, but must have been comical  to watch!😁 Think of that fulcrum and lever you learned about in  grade school!

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On 5/24/2017 at 11:10 PM, david wild said:

What method do you use to preplot your holes

With the suspension removed I map all holes-both sides on paper. All hole piloting is done off of the front suspension mounts and squared from that point both sides.

The distance between mounts is normally 52" for axle spacing. So all four front hangers for both axles are marked and holes centered first. Then all other mounting holes can be centered from that central point.  I had to slightly re-ream six holes out of 68 holes on mount up.

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1 minute ago, Hobert62 said:

Is that Pete air ride?

No that's Reyco 102AR. actually Reyco was the first with the low spring air ride I believe. Pretty simple and pretty tough. One big reason I bought this truck was the rear suspension.

I like KW's but I don't care for the 8 bag suspension. Rough ride and more places to leak air.

 

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those reamers are a real labor saver but you have to hold on to the drill sometimes it gets bound up. I always used good tapping fluid. If you can find it Castrol makes this black colored stuff that is the best I have ever used had to power tap 8-32 holes in hard stainless steel for a job I forget how many but it was the right stuff. That is a nice job on that truck.

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  • 2 weeks later...
6 hours ago, thomastractorsvc said:

Coming together

How long does it usally take to put something like this one together? 

Well if I could work on it full time and had all the parts when I needed them I should have been done two weeks ago. But with all of our trucks and trailers and 

outside work on farm trucks getting ready for harvest it's eaten up a fair amount of time.

 

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Looks great! You do beautiful work! Can I ask a question though? Where you spliced the frame I see you left it strait vertical. I have seen all different ways people do it. Any reason you chose that way over the others? I'm just wondering.

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                                           I cut them vertical because that method is how Kenworth says to do it on a frame repair. Their frame service section lists vertical cuts only and six

                                           5/8 bolts equally spaced two inches from weld, three each side. 

 

                                            Truck Shop

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12 hours ago, h67st said:

What do you use to polish the tanks? I've got a couple that I'd like to polish.

First I would sand depending on surface using 320, 400 then 600. I use a DA air sander. Then most people use rouge on a 8 to 10 buffer wheel. This one I'm doing now

I'm short on time so sanded and Mother's mag polish is all it will get for now. Next year I will go back over them when I have more time.

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My tank and wheels where pretty bad and we started with 180 on the DA.  Then worked way up to 600 then 1000 wet by hand and wd40 instead of water.   Then dad started with 10" red buffer wheel and rouge.  Think there is 3 diffrent wheels and types of rouge he uses.      To fast of buffer makes to much heat and makes a mess with the rouge.     I hate doing it.   I'm glad my dad don't mind, because if not for him my stuff wouldn't be done right.  It's alot of work to start with old stuff to make them right.    

Edited by Hobert62
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14 hours ago, thomastractorsvc said:

Can you give some details and snap a couple pictures of the drill and reams set ups used for the frame and how you chuck them?  

I just drill a 5/16" pilot hole with a regular 3/8" electric hand held drill.      Then I use the reamer in a 1/2" hand held electric drill just like a drill bit but works  easier and last longer.  Just squirt a little lube of your choice and that's it.   I have a 1/2 & 5/8 reams good quality worth their price.   I have a 3/4" from ebay and its junk.  image.thumb.jpg.9d06d97181c00842e0e220890bc48745.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.4df83ce9c384037ecf5b0c2cdfdb4815.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Very nice work. Your experience shows. I've seen so many guys with all sorts of voodoo frame splices. I do mine like you with a vertical cut and insert. Every manual I've ever read has said to do it that way.  

I went away from the reamer and use a  rotocut annular cutter. It saves a lot of time. 5/8 hole in 1/2 rail in 45 seconds.  Over the course of 50 holes it really adds up on time savings. 

Cool project and great work! 

 

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2 hours ago, BGarofalo said:

I went away from the reamer and use a  rotocut annular cutter. It saves a lot of time. 5/8 hole in 1/2 rail in 45 seconds.  Over the course of 50 holes it really adds up on time savings.  

 

That's in a mag drill?     I've seen them used.   They do work very nice.  My buddies one is a low profile style.  I think it would prob. fit between a drive tire and the frame rail.  

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  • 5 weeks later...

 

 

How did the hooker turn out?

On the balcony of the Chancellor Inn with her boobs hanging out according to General Hooker, hence the name.

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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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