Midwest Farms Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 (edited) New to the forum! I just bought a 98 Mack Midliner 24' box truck last week and am trying to work the bugs out. We use it for hauling floor tile-it works great with the 5,500# Maxon liftgate! It's a great driving/running truck with 140k on it-still getting used to the turning radius with the rear tandem down but otherwise great. This of course has the Renault engine. The main issue is a startup. It will crank but not start unless you tap the accelerator a few times while cranking. Once started it will stumble and buck for 5-10 seconds then cleans up. It blows white smoke (fuel) while cranking until it reaches standard idle. Power is fine, or as good as 210 hp with a 6 speed can be! No coolant loss or oil consumption. I'm anticipating the answer is in the fuel rack or a sensor. I can live with it for now but anticipate as the temps drop, I won't be able to get it to light in the winter months. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks all! Edited August 22, 2016 by Midwest Farms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midwest Farms Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm ok with some general places to start. Fuel filters are new. I haven't checked the fuel check valve but uncertain if it would exhibit these symptoms. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kscarbel2 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 From a distance, I'm guessing you have a bad injector. If your local Mack dealer has some experienced Mid-Liner technicians (old hands), you should take it to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
br549 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I remember that on some of the midliner truck around that year model they had a timming advance that worked off of oil pressure that advance the timming and they would be hard to start and smoke white smoke, I can't remember for sure, I will check on it when I get to work tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 (edited) If it has timing control try unplugging it the orings sometimes give grief if it stays smoky with the timing unplugged you either got to repair the solenoid or unplug it totally and set the timing to 16 or so deg btdc its quite an involved process drain the coolant remove the cover pop the gear lose from the pump and reset the motor to 16 and put the gear back on the pump Edited August 23, 2016 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midwest Farms Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks for the quick replies. I'm hopeful it's not an injector. I'll unplug the timing control off the injector pump tomorrow morning and determine if that makes a difference. Appreciate the help! Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midwest Farms Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Thanks BR549 and FJH, you appear to both be spot on. It appears to be the solenoid or an oil antidrain back valve (check value) at minimum. The truck will run rough until the oil pressure picks up. On a cold motor, it takes about 4-5 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to move and it smooths out right as the oil pressure gauge begins to move. I'm speculating this 4-5 seconds is how long it takes the sump to pump oil to the injection pump. Oil pressure is good otherwise. Also, if trying to restart the truck after sitting for 30 minutes, it fires right up. So if I understand this correctly, the issue may be the solenoid failing to shuttle due to no oil pressure at startup to actuate it. Is there an oil anti-drain valve or check value that could be causing this issue? If I'm headed in the wrong direction on this one, feel free to call me out. Thanks again for the help. We are a new small business and this forum is a huge help in keeping things moving! Also, are there any online manuals for these motors or do I need to contact Mack to buy a manual? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Solenoid Valve won't be cheap if you can live with it do so you could trynew orings on the valve if you can find some .these are dandy little engines and worth keeping running. Edited August 24, 2016 by fjh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midwest Farms Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 New solenoid is $500! I may live with it unless it fails to start in the colder months. Thanks again for the input. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Is the engine in the mackidliner cs200p a wet sleeve or dry sleeve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 19 hours ago, Neo said: Is the engine in the mackidliner cs200p a wet sleeve or dry sleeve Never worked on one but the 1988 Mack Midliner brochure indicates it is a wet sleeve. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 On 4/25/2017 at 5:05 AM, j hancock said: Never worked on one but the 1988 Mack Midliner brochure indicates it is a wet sleeve. Wet Sleeve for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Thanks much ...... I've read the wet sleeve engine are better than dry sleeves most of the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselmcnastyton Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 Hey guys! Does anyone Have a part number and or a picture for the solenoid I have a 96MS 250 P at smokes on start up and a friend told me that Oil was not draining through the block properly or a check valve. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 White smoke can mean you have air getting in your fuel system If this is the case it usually disappears in a few minutes If so the air leak is in your return side Also could be as simple as worn parts letting oil settle when not running and getting burnt off in the first few minutes I doubt it's a restriction in the motor or there would be oil everywhere when running Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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