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On 6/1/2020 at 10:19 PM, Isac said:

I’ll go ahead and change the air compressor then and see what happens

 

I have a 2000 RD688 with a 427, before I did anything I put exhaust and compression gas detctor on the  Reservoir and showed nothing so I changed my air compressor installed a new waterpump, the housing behind the pump, thermostat, various hoses, flushed all places I could get a hose into. I Still have the problem. 

Edited by Pulling my hair out
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On 6/1/2020 at 10:19 PM, Isac said:

I’ll go ahead and change the air compressor then and see what happens

 

 

7 minutes ago, Pulling my hair out said:

Before I did anything I put exhaust and compression gas detctor on the  Reservoir and showed nothing so I changed my air compressor installed a new waterpump, the housing behind the pump, thermostat, various hoses, flushed all places I could get a hose into. I Still have the problem. 

 

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since its an RD, i bet it works in the dirt, and there is a mess between the CAC and the radiator, as well as a clogged radiator, that may need to be boiled.  or just buy a new radiator..  did you change the water pump housing because it was cavitated?  was the coolant mostly water? when you pulled the thermostat was it hard to get apart and broke when it was apart?  I bet you have a viscous fan clutch,,, is it weak?  here's a crazy 'Q' has some done a valve adjustment right before it ran hot?   it's an E-Tech, so there isnt a whole lot of outside issues that can raise engine temp..  Pretty basic engine..  jojo

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11 hours ago, h67st said:

I'm with Joey...make sure both the air side and inside of the radiator are clean. He's got some good ideas about the water pump, tstat, etc.

Yup do the simple stuff first rad cap also!

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On 7/16/2022 at 8:30 PM, Joey Mack said:

since its an RD, i bet it works in the dirt, and there is a mess between the CAC and the radiator, as well as a clogged radiator, that may need to be boiled.  or just buy a new radiator..  did you change the water pump housing because it was cavitated?  was the coolant mostly water? when you pulled the thermostat was it hard to get apart and broke when it was apart?  I bet you have a viscous fan clutch,,, is it weak?  here's a crazy 'Q' has some done a valve adjustment right before it ran hot?   it's an E-Tech, so there isnt a whole lot of outside issues that can raise engine temp..  Pretty basic engine..  jojo

Truck had no thermostat when purchased and under heavy load on steep grade out of quarry never went over °160, so we put a thermostat in with waterpump, a housing, air compressor...never overheated. There is a new cam kit in the truck by previous owner 

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have you tried to test the coolant for exhaust gasses?    The last 2  times that , I saw this, it was cracked heads...  sorry...  not trying build a mountain... jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
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Make sure you replace the small line that goes from the coolant tank to radiator/upper radiator hose elbow. This line can collapse and cause issues like air pockets and only being able to fill with 2-3 gallons of coolant rather than the 10+ gallons required. The 2000-2001 year model ETECHs had issues with engine blocks not washed out correctly and the sand from where the engine blocks were cast would settle at the back right corner of the engine block and block  coolant to the air compressor. Almost always you would find the paint cooked off the head of the air compressor due to it overheating.  Twice in one day we had 2 trucks towed in where this happened and the air compressor head gasket blew and pushed coolant back through the fresh air intake pipe which goes around the back of engine and into the back of the intake manifold. Coolant got forced into the #6 cylinder and hydro-locked the engine and bent the #6 connecting rod so bad we had to cut if in half with a torch. Mack came out with a new coolant fitting for the back of the block then later instructed us to run a new air compressor coolant line around the back of the engine and into the water manifold to totally get away from the core sand issues . 

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