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CRACKED EATON REAR


wilbur

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Drill a relief hole at each end of the crack to relieve the stress, Clean it of grease, paint and mung. Vee it out and weld it up with a stitch weld, not a continuous weld. Paul

The axle doctor came by and didn't want to do it. Paul ,do you think a Mig will handle the job or will the oil cause too much porosity.

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Probably be too much porosity with a mig or stick. Hard to get thing really clean, then like Paul said vee it out, then I'd preheat cast before welding and peen it like eddeere said. But I'm guessing after all that work it likely will come back and haunt you so you might want to take Alexg's advice and bite the bullet if this is how you're making a living.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

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low hydrogen rods

buy some crack testing spray stuff if you can clean it up with the grinder spray it on find the end of the crack and drill a hole if you dont drill a hole you most likely never stop the crack !!!! if you cant easily get the spray crack testing stuff once its cleaned up heat it up a little bit and spray diesel it will seep into the cracks and as it evaporates off you can see it coming out of the cracks

http://www.dymarkindustries.com/product-range/inks-and-dyes/flawchek-crack-detection

I would Vee it out and start again and stitch it back together as described above I wouldnt worry about peening it to much work for me

next I would crack test it again

I wold then make a big patch to cover the whole area allowing a fair bit more for each end of the crack and fully weld it on

thats just me though if it has already cracked it isnt strong enough so a patch is gunna help at least in my mind it would

I would have a go at fixing it, it wont cost much and most likely will work fine for many years to come

Paul

and one last thing Im only a farmer so maybe take no notice of me

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A MIG will handle it no problem. The thickness of the steel in the housing is between .187 and .250 thousand thick. Pull the axle and clean , clean it, clean it, clean it. Inside and out where the crack is. If you don't get the oil from the crack area inside the housing the weld heat will suck it into the weld and it will be porous and fail. Clean the paint off the area, dye check to see the full crack. Drill stop holes and vee the crack. Do a small teat weld and adjust the amps the get full penetration. I would peen each weld you do before it cools completely, it relieves the weld stress. Re Dye check and touch up if needed.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I got her fixed today. I made a u shaped groove 1/2in. x 5/16 deep. The axle is 7/16 wall. Filled that up and plated it. I used two plates on top and bottom of the seam weld and filled the center gap. Keeping fingers crossed

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As long as you cleaned it well, stop drilled the crack and stitch welded it you should be fine. The drilled stop holes are pretty important to prevent the crack from reoccurring.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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