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AZB755V8

AB injection timing light J37077

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Looking for a Kent-Moore or OTC J-37077 injector pump timing AB light. For timing P7100 pumps.

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Best price I saw was $355 for it.

I also was looking at the one that clamps on the #1 injector line and uses a timing strobe timing light gun. It's about $460 though. I have set point/ dual points on many gas engines with feeler gages to the spec., remember dwell meters to, double checked with a timing light gun to find I was off a degree or two. I can also check timing at specific RPM's, You and I know static timing can't do that and what we are doing to these engines can really effect performance.

I think the clamp on with strobe light is the way to go and it can be used on anything with a mechanical injector pump. Just cant bring myself to part with $460 at the moment. An adapter box is from the UK and about $190 and use a standard strobe timing gun but no RPM readout still with a good gun it's about $260 total.

Still looking... anyone got what I need?

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Apex Tool has them for $430

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I have used both type of timing lights and still have the clamp on from snapon.I used it many times on checking the timing advance on cat engine but it is off from the cat meter.As long as you know how for off it is its ok for charting the curve on a cat.

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Need a high pressure timer to do it right. 😏 Runs off port closer. Take spring out of the number 1 delivery valve and the fuel will flow. When port closer is reached the fuel bead (flow) will stop.

It's very accurate but expensive to own. It comes in very handy if you play with fuel pump timing for truck pulling. 👍😬

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Need a high pressure timer to do it right. Runs off port closer. Take spring out of the number 1 delivery valve and the fuel will flow. When port closer is reached the fuel bead (flow) will stop.

It's very accurate but expensive to own. It comes in very handy if you play with fuel pump timing for truck pulling.

Isn't that the old air and tube in a jar way of doing it? Can do it with air or fuel pumping in to supply port. It's about 5 bucks in parts or an I not understanding?

Is that the accurate way of doing it?

From Glenn, how far off are the clamp on lights? I am looking for accuracy here. Sorry just have questions on what to get.

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I usually take needle valve out of #1 and use hand primer. Been doing mine that way for years didn't know you can do it on inline.

Old timer that showed me how to do it all ways did it that way once in will he would check with timing light and it was real close.

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I remember them being 2 degrees off from a cat meter but that could be variable from light to light.

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You can take the delivery valve out and use hand primer.Full throdle and no stop and just as the flow stops is starting of injection.You can do that on a Robert Bosch as well as on a ambac.On a Robert Bosch you going to need a special tool to take the holding nut off.What some one was talking about id the electric hi/pressure fuel pump that will pump fuel past the deleivery valve keeping you from removing it.This is not need when you can remove the valve.

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What I have to do is take out the delivery valve and do the static timing to get a baseline. I know how to do that and until now was the only way I set timing. Just bought a Kent-Moore J-33300 timing tool (clamp on) on Ebay for $200, about as cheap as I have found. I will then see how far off it reads and just adjust the timing difference in going forward. That way I can adjust timing without the mess of pulling pump valve apart every time. Thanks Guys for the help.

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which ever way you go I would not want my engine to be any more advanced than 5 degrees above specs.

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What I have to do is take out the delivery valve and do the static timing to get a baseline. I know how to do that and until now was the only way I set timing. Just bought a Kent-Moore J-33300 timing tool (clamp on) on Ebay for $200, about as cheap as I have found. I will then see how far off it reads and just adjust the timing difference in going forward. That way I can adjust timing without the mess of pulling pump valve apart every time. Thanks Guys for the help.

Have to let us know difference between flow timed and what it is when running and how much that changes with higher RPMs

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With higher rpm under load.Thats the way it should be checked but again it hard to stay under the hood going down the road.

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Hay Albert,

You what to hang on the frame rail with the timing gun pointed at the balancer while I'm going down the track hooked to the sled? You still have a old hood we could cut a hole in? That will put a good load on her for a few seconds. Oh crap forgot no passengers per the pulling rules... LOL

Maybe a good use for a GoPRo camera and timing light rigged up under the hood??? Glenn got a solution just had to think about it for a minute.

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Its not the rpm as much as how much the helix is turned on the plunger and that is only done by holding the load on it so the plunger goes into full fuel.

I my self would like to know how much advance comes into it in full fuel.

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Yea I got old hood come and get it?

Just curious how much it changes when you rev it up

I have a V pump on the 866 and have old plungers. On that pump there is a retard notch on the plungers for easer starting. If the rack is in full fuel it goes to this notch and retards the timing. Is it the same on your V pump or different plungers for pulling? Don't know if the notch was used on the E9. I will see if there is a notch on my inline but have not heard anyone talk about it. I have a few old plungers to take a photo if needed.

I have never needed to touch the throttle to start any of my V8's. They just fire up almost instantly.

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Do you think you get different reading setting timing with throttle in idle opposed to wide open? i'll have to try it have to put pump on motor for other truck this week.

Never heard of retard notch. mine usually starts right up except when its cold out.

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With higher rpm under load.Thats the way it should be checked but again it hard to stay under the hood going down the road.

Its not the rpm as much as how much the helix is turned on the plunger and that is only done by holding the load on it so the plunger goes into full fuel.

I my self would like to know how much advance comes into it in full fuel.

If you had access to a Chassis dyno could you do your tests

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If you had access to a Chassis dyno could you do your tests

Not many of those big dyno's out this side of the country. Bet it would be some $$ to get one for a few hours to test and tune. Most (all) shops don't what someone messing up a big buck piece of equipment to play around with big HP. I don't blame them ether. Last dyno my truck was on was to small and quit reading at 1100HP, don't know it it hurt the dyno but they did not test it further.

If you got one in mind I will put it to work??

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Not many of those big dyno's out this side of the country. Bet it would be some $$ to get one for a few hours to test and tune. Most (all) shops don't what someone messing up a big buck piece of equipment to play around with big HP. I don't blame them ether. Last dyno my truck was on was to small and quit reading at 1100HP, don't know it it hurt the dyno but they did not test it further.

If you got one in mind I will put it to work??

Just curious; there were couple places around memphis that had them; but didn't think about how things have changed over the years; insurance & all other you mentioned; have to be a buddy deal; thought you could get showing of full fuel before you had all hp to the ground with one; just to get timing reading not to see how much hp you have

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I am only guess here guys so don't go all out listen to me.I don't know how much difference there is in timing and I could be all wrong.

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I am only guess here guys so don't go all out listen to me.I don't know how much difference there is in timing and I could be all wrong.

You brought up some good ideals i'm know master at this either . This is how we all learn together.

The right timing for desired rpm range can make a big difference.

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That is what this forum is about having an issue and collectively finding a solution. There are different ways of thinking about timing but even if we find it off to Mack spec, how did they time theses engine in the first place? I was told that the optimum timing for and E9 was 19 Degrees but is that static or dynamic readings? Valve cover states 13 degrees.

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