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Can't adjust clutch brake on my AI 350 with an 8LL trans, any pointers?


Super Duty John

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I have zero clutch brake on the 2004 CV713 I just bought, it was a State of PA Turnpike truck and was maintained but it appears the clutch has never been adjusted, ever! Now the adjustment wheel thing is frozen solid and missing teeth! Do I have to drop the trans to get at it and change the clutch ?

The truck had 98,000 miles on it and is fairly tight for a plow truck, very little sign of rust and it looks great. Engine checks out fine except for a possible fuel line leak causing a hard start (that I can't find...) but shifting into 1 or R after getting out is brutal! I've been turning it off and starting in gear to save the gears!

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You can replace the 5/8" adjuster, but if the clutch ring has broken teeth, the clutch will need replaced. If you replace the 5/8 adjuster and the clutch is still frozen, you'll have to replace the clutch.

This is where we are now, we're just going to do both as the clutch is only about 25% at this point.

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adjusting the free play won't get you clutch brake adjustment. you need to establish a clutch brake then adjust the free play

The whole issue is the clutch brake, the free play is Okay.

We were able to adjust the clutch brake to just about to touch, but still nothing. The clutch brake has about [less than] 10% so I'm going to do the whole job.

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First of all is to adj the brake with the free play adjument.You need the brake set first and then adjust the pressure plate to were the free play is about 1 1/2" and if the linkage has not been messed with the clutch sould come up with 1/2" clearance between the throw out brg and the clutch brake disc.If the clutch pedal had had the stop adjusted under the dash then you may have to adjust the pressure plate to fit the free play.But remember after the clutch brake is set the adjusting of the pressure plate will not change the clutch brake setting.

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glenn akers

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On clutches with frozen adjuster rings I soak the ring best I can with wd-40. Spray that stuff into every open hole I can while barring the engine over. I'll start the engine and run it for a short time while pressing the clutch pedal up/down. Usually that will break them loose. If not, I'll try an air hammer to try to move the ring. If none of that will loosen the ring then a new clutch is the only remedy.

There are a ton of answers on how to adjust a clutch. The way I was taught was by a Spicer rep. The most critical setting on a clutch adjustment is the gap between the throw out bearing and clutch brake. A 1/2" is preferred but

no more than 9/16". That is the adjustment you make with the adjuster ring. Next critical adjustment is the clutch brake (external linkage adjustment), when the clutch brake makes contact with the throw out bearing there should be approximately 1/2" clearance (aprox. finger thick) between the clutch pedal and the pedal stop. If both of these dimensions are correct then the free travel should be almost spot on. That is taking into account that everything is in good shape. Make sure before making a clutch adjustment that there is some pedal free travel.

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On clutches with frozen adjuster rings I soak the ring best I can with wd-40. Spray that stuff into every open hole I can while barring the engine over. I'll start the engine and run it for a short time while pressing the clutch pedal up/down. Usually that will break them loose. If not, I'll try an air hammer to try to move the ring. If none of that will loosen the ring then a new clutch is the only remedy.

There are a ton of answers on how to adjust a clutch. The way I was taught was by a Spicer rep. The most critical setting on a clutch adjustment is the gap between the throw out bearing and clutch brake. A 1/2" is preferred but

no more than 9/16". That is the adjustment you make with the adjuster ring. Next critical adjustment is the clutch brake (external linkage adjustment), when the clutch brake makes contact with the throw out bearing there should be approximately 1/2" clearance (aprox. finger thick) between the clutch pedal and the pedal stop. If both of these dimensions are correct then the free travel should be almost spot on. That is taking into account that everything is in good shape. Make sure before making a clutch adjustment that there is some pedal free travel.

Thank you, will do.

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make sure that the clutch brake is not worn down also, end play is critical for the life of the clutch, but the clutch brake is help for the syncronizers.

We ended up putting in a new clutch brake and clutch, I haven't received the bill yet but he said it was just under $2K and he did other work like: new rear brakes and removed the fuel heater next to the saddle tank.

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