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Matt-just out of curiosity did you ever price out rails from P.G. Adams?

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9 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Matt-just out of curiosity did you ever price out rails from P.G. Adams?

My original plan was to fabricate everything and then mount the body. As I looked at the donor frame, I found that it would slide over the original making the stretch and mounting much easier and quicker.

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9 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

My original plan was to fabricate everything and then mount the body. As I looked at the donor frame, I found that it would slide over the original making the stretch and mounting much easier and quicker.

Freighttrain & myself did something similar.   I can't say for him but I didn't use any type of shims.   Everything pulled together    like it belonged.   I bolted it through 3 of the mack crossmembers then added the fuel tank mounts and some other brackets through the splice as well.        I think my overlap is about 4'

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4 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

Freighttrain & myself did something similar.   I can't say for him but I didn't use any type of shims.   Everything pulled together    like it belonged.   I bolted it through 3 of the mack crossmembers then added the fuel tank mounts and some other brackets through the splice as well.        I think my overlap is about 4'

A couple of years ago I posted a question of the frame stretch, I think Freightrain responded with some pics of his stretch. That and a few other responses confirmed that it was pretty sound to go forward that way. Most of my measurements are close and just need to be tightened up a little. Right now I'm thinking that there's 1/4" difference from inner to outer spacing, that could be made up with two 1/8" shims down the overlap. I still need to finish cleaning both sets of rails and then finalize everything.

My plan is to use the two Mack cross members where the original axle is, then staggered bolts in between. There'll be two more cross members  where the donor axle is. The Mack axle will fit the springs that are in the donor frame. It has a Eaton twospeed under it now that'll be removed. The plus is the body is already mounted and will just need to be remounted. Looks like there'll be about 7' added to the wheelbase.

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34 minutes ago, mattb73lt said:

A couple of years ago I posted a question of the frame stretch, I think Freightrain responded with some pics of his stretch. That and a few other responses confirmed that it was pretty sound to go forward that way. Most of my measurements are close and just need to be tightened up a little. Right now I'm thinking that there's 1/4" difference from inner to outer spacing, that could be made up with two 1/8" shims down the overlap. I still need to finish cleaning both sets of rails and then finalize everything.

My plan is to use the two Mack cross members where the original axle is, then staggered bolts in between. There'll be two more cross members  where the donor axle is. The Mack axle will fit the springs that are in the donor frame. It has a Eaton twospeed under it now that'll be removed. The plus is the body is already mounted and will just need to be remounted. Looks like there'll be about 7' added to the wheelbase.

Matt-what was the donor truck?

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14 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Matt-what was the donor truck?

It was a  Ford L series with a Cat in it that was dead.

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I didn't use the mack rear I used the Rockwell from the freightliner air ride cutoff.   It gave me a much better gear ratio.  My last mack crossmember is at the rear of the doubled frames.  It is about 2' of just freightliner frame  before the first freightliner crossmember.  

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3 minutes ago, Hobert62 said:

I didn't use the mack rear I used the Rockwell from the freightliner air ride cutoff.   It gave me a much better gear ratio.  My last mack crossmember is at the rear of the doubled frames.  It is about 2' of just freightliner frame  before the first freightliner crossmember.  

I've got a 4.62 rear and a double overdrive Triplex going in this one. Nearly the same as I set up in my other B, but with 24.5" rubber going on this one. Cruises nice at 65, with more top end. The Triplex gives good flexibility around town and highway.

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1 minute ago, mattb73lt said:

I've got a 4.62 rear and a double overdrive Triplex going in this one. Nearly the same as I set up in my other B, but with 24.5" rubber going on this one. Cruises nice at 65, with more top end. The Triplex gives good flexibility around town and highway.

Mine was a 4.62 but with a direct duplex it wasn't enough.   The new one is a 4.30 and with the 12r 22.5 will run 63 at 2100 according to my GPS.   I would have like around  a 4 but I only gave $500 for the complete cutoff and figured I'd try it. 

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Nothing like getting things cleaned up and new paint on them! I notice your floor looks old...when you built your new shop, did you reuse the old foundation and floor?

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7 minutes ago, h67st said:

Nothing like getting things cleaned up and new paint on them! I notice your floor looks old...when you built your new shop, did you reuse the old foundation and floor?

It's the original floor with 3/4" plywood layed over it as a work surface. I put it down when I did the other B. I'll probably replace it at some point.

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Well, my text disappeared when I posted those pics. But, it's been two months since I touched this, didn't think I would be that busy. Finally got on it this weekend, finished all the welding and primed the frame. Got the donor frame to the sandblaster and into the shop for primer.

The big score was finding a "Back-Drop" exhaust for the Cummins. It's super nice and once its painted and installed I'll post some pictures.

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Mine was 1" taller then the Mack frame, so I just clamped the top rail and left the bottom be what it was.

Looks good.  I loved mine just after I put the POR15 on it.   Then 6 months later it looked like crap.  Oh well, it's no show winner anyway.

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5 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Mine was 1" taller then the Mack frame, so I just clamped the top rail and left the bottom be what it was.

Same here with my freightliner rails.   My splice is behind my stack brackets and under deck plate so it's hid from outside viewing.  

I used rustoleum red oxide primer and there  profesional grade gloss black.   Figured it would be easy for touchups.  

Edited by Hobert62

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