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Broken (melted) piston ledge x 2 times


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I don't think a heat gun will help you because it is not burning a piston when at idle.If some one is not breaking rings when they install the piston then it maybe a injector or miscalibrated pump.And also forget the valve train as a problem.I would be looking at all six injectors and pull them and check the flow of them as well as same part #.

glenn akers

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Another off the wall thought.. Is there a blockage in the cooling system that is not letting enough water back to the #6 hole???

I remember that the old straight 8 Buicks in Flxible busses would burn #8 if you worked it too hard for too long..

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Brocky

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I don't think a heat gun will help you because it is not burning a piston when at idle.If some one is not breaking rings when they install the piston then it maybe a injector or miscalibrated pump.And also forget the valve train as a problem.I would be looking at all six injectors and pull them and check the flow of them as well as same part #.

I know the engine wont be hot at idle, but if I pull the truck in a grade with a load and then stop and check I believe the hot hole would be some hotter in the time it takes to pull over, tip the hood and do a quick check......maybe not but I don't think the temps would equalize that quick. The pump was rebuilt and flow tested and the nozzles were checked at that time. I have since changed the nozzle in the 6 hole thinking that was at least a possibility of having a bad spray pattern...time will tell I suppose.

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When you pull hard and jump out and check the temp on the manifold all will be about the same because the heat will travel thru the metal fast but try it.I have been doing that test for a long time and it is good to tell you if a injector is dead or not and then you have to let the manifold cool off then start it and let the temp come up with idle.

glenn akers

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  • 4 weeks later...

Three times I have seen either some sort of stop leak in one case and rust, rubber and debris in two other cases pack up in the right rear water galley surrounding the rear portion of the #6 sleeve. I guess because the crap travels downhill and settles around #6 liner. In every one of those cases, there was piston damage( melting) going on. Had to do a thorough cleaning job on that corner while liner was out to correct the problem. It also caused the air compressors to heat up hastening their departure as well. Hope this helps.

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you might also try a ' TEMP STICK" you can get them at a welding supply store diffrent sticks for diffrent temp ranges you could mark the ports with it then run a short distance and see what, if any differance their is.the temp sticks are made of a wax like materal and melt at different temps so this might be easer than trying to hit the ports with a laser temp gun, as soon as you throw the hood you can see if their is a notable differance. just a thought.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, I've been super busy and not on the computer much......sorry I haven't responded to the latest post before this, to be honest I thought this thread died a while ago. I have been using the truck daily but haven't taken the time to check much out, I'll be looking at the temps in various ways and report what I find, as far as the water galley being plugged.....well, if that's the problem I'll most likley find that when the next piston needs to go in. Thanks to all for keeping this going and for all the good advise.

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Check your cooling jet under this piston. It might be bended and not spraying oil under the piston at the right place. There is a tool to adjust it.

That fact was discussed during the last piston replacement, I believe it was determined at that time to be spraying in the right way, The engine is doing fine this year....so far. Its been cool and rainy here most of the spring/summer to date so it really hasn't been put to the test yet.

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