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Finally did it. I now own a Mack.


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Nice to see that truck came into the good hands.

Hope you'll have time and opportunity to continue making up it's appireance and show us.

Thank you for posting :twothumbsup:

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Now that it's getting much colder, there is less (no) room inside to work on the truck, so we are readying it to move to our farm. Hopefully we will have the body off tomorrow and by the end of the day it will be in our garage.

Next on the list:

1. Prep the hood. Paint under it, prime the top.

2. Prep and paint the firewall.

3. Prep and prime the doors.

4. Prep and prime the cab.

5. Install new lights on the back of the truck and re-wire from the cab back.

6. Install new directional lights on the fenders and re-wire as needed.

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Well, I didn't quite get done what I wanted to today, but still made progress nonetheless. I used a wire wheel on my grinder to strip the hood down to bare steel. The right side is in rough shape with really bad pitting. The left side is decent. I also had to use a torch on the nuts holding the rear directionals on. No amount of penetrating oil worked. Hopefully I can put some time into it tomorrow.

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may have been old paint incompatible with the new especially since it was not stripped down to bare metal.

How did the wire wheel on the grinder work for stripping paint? I have used them with a drill but never on a grinder, when I stripped/sanded my B I used a da, paint stripper, small spot sand blasting and wire brush on my drill. I saw the heavy duty wire wheels but never tried it. I thought it may damage the sheet metal.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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Wobblin, I think thomastractorsvc has you pointed in the right direction. The paints may not be compatible.

You also have to make sure there is no trace of oils or wax. The paint will react to that also.

Before you paint ,wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth.

You've done such a good job so far it would be a shame to not have the green turn out good also.

Keith 

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We had similar issue and paint guy at Napa said it was the old

Mack lacquer paint reacting with newer single stage urethane .

Recommended completely strip it we used aircraft stripper because it was easy

And panels were in good shape. Good luck with it.

I look forward to reading the thread everyday thanks for posting!

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You guys might be right. I thought it may have been the temperature of the steel, but since I didn't strip under the hoods down to bare metal, it might have been the reaction. The weird thing is most of the new paint stuck and looks pretty good. As it is, I'm not that concerned since it's not going to be seen much, and the fact that the tops are stripped to bare metal, so we will be starting fresh where it counts.

The wire attachment I used on my power drill was straight wire. It wore off grease, dirt, and loose paint pretty well, but it doesn't strip solid paint at all. For that duty, I use my hand-held grinder and a woven wire attachment. It'll strip the glitter off a stripper.

BTW, NAPA priced out the green I'm looking for at over $200 per gallon. Ouch.

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that's why all my stuff is done in tractor colors 50 bucks for a gallon of enamel is more in my price range and it's not to finicky to work with. and I don't have clear coat pealing off after 3 years. .....But I might have to buff and wax it to make it look good.

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that's why all my stuff is done in tractor colors 50 bucks for a gallon of enamel is more in my price range and it's not to finicky to work with. and I don't have clear coat pealing off after 3 years. .....But I might have to buff and wax it to make it look good.

go to sherwin williams check out their industrial enamel they will make any color you want and not charge you both arms and half a leg and it will hold up better than that 200+ a gal .stuff and look as good or better STUCK THIS IN WRONG SLOT OH WELL HE`LL SEE IT

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