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Finally did it. I now own a Mack.


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not ant my bloody fat fingers it was meant to be any oop's

mate your paint job is 1000% on mine I can do mechanical things ok but the panel work well what can I say when I do it it looks like it is done by me big time

and having said that the feeling I get when I do a job is something I cant describe knowing that I have achieved what ever it is I had just done and not paid someone else

I think you should be really proud of the job your doing and thank you for taking us all along with you on the journey so far

Paul

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That card board is less than $10 per sheet can also buy online but shipping would get you. Any upholstery shop would have it comes in a couple ways regular which is 36 x 50 and water proof that is 36 x 48.

I know you have messed with the seats but it would be worth taken them a part and cleaning and sanitizing and just re-stapling them, that is something you can do and is really easy. You may want to re-place the ply wood also, that will make the seats not stink anymore or the truck and help keep the vermin out. Wal-mart sells foam squares for like $2 bucks that will fit the seat tops to protect your "rear" from the rotted out foam and burlap. For about $50 in materials you could have everything less than the headliner redone.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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The kit from Lancaster is pretty nice, but it can be done with patience from board if you have some old material to help with the pattern.

Either way, putting a headliner into an egg shaped cab can be a little tricky.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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The kit from Lancaster is pretty nice, but it can be done with patience from board if you have some old material to help with the pattern.

Either way, putting a headliner into an egg shaped cab can be a little tricky.

are trying to say all B model drivers are egg heads ?????????? :banana::banana::banana:

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yes as everyone else has said are making all the rest of us look slack

do you have ant problems braving up spots with the tin work getting warpped ??

Paul

Ah, I get your drift now. Yes, the passenger door warped when I was welding a patch in. I had no idea that it would happen, so my uncle and I spent a fair amount of time straightening out the mess. He then showed me a trick to welding flat sheet metal: use a water spray bottle to cool it down. Nothing else warped.

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Today's progress:

1. Some of the internals of the doors were in pretty bad shape, so I had to rob a few components from donor doors and MacGyver a few other things to make it all work. The bottom track on one door was beyond saving and the window crank on the other was in need of replacing. In addition to those, some of the tracks that the windows would move up and down in were terrible, too. In one instance, I had a piece of track that fit loosely inside the channel steel, so I built it out a few layers of black duct tape and then glued it in place. I did a similar thing on the bottoms of the glass where they fit into the bottom channel.

Aside from that, I had to do a bunch of running around finding parts and such, so not much else got done. I also had to run to Tractor Supply Co. to find some fasteners, too.

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Quite a bit of progress today:

1. Cleaned up a bunch of bolts and fasteners on the wire wheel, primed all that needed priming and painted all the interior ones.

2. Sanded the fiberglass resin I put down on three brazed patches.

3. Installed five new cab lights. Will take them off tomorrow, but I had to install them to get all the extra holes drilled before we paint the cab next week.

4. Stripped the dash (except for the instrument panel), cleaned, primed, and painted it.

5. Installed the new windshield glass and rubber.

6. Stripped, cleaned, and primed a part of the heating system (the part that is under the heater fan), the metal center strip on the windshield, and the two defroster moldings.

Sorry, no pics today. Too busy. Perhaps tomorrow. BTW, hopefully we will have a warm day or two next week for painting the cab.

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The felt channel that I had to replace the original Mack window channel (inside those to vertical steel channels) is smaller than stock, so it fit too loose in the steel. I turned the felt channel I had upside down and just kept putting layer upon layer of black tape on and over it until it finally fit snug in the steel. Then, to make sure it doesn't move while the window is rolled up or down, I glued it in place, too. After the felt fit snug and was glued, I used a razor blade to trim the excess tape that stuck out.

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