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Paralell series switch nightmare


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12volt is the only way to go, make sure that the starter has the right number of teeth on it.

The previous owner of my B had the wrong starter gear drive to start out with and made a few bad spots on the starter ring. I cleaned it up and 85% of the time it catches, usually spins out when I have an audience. I will flip it over one day when I have to pull the transmission or it fails to catch.

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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Beatngu, S/P switches are easy to hook up to batteries. You need to 12V batteries, doesn't matter where you locate them. I assume you have a negative ground system. Positive cable from battery #1 goes to starter. Negative cable from #1 goes to negative on S/P switch. Positive cable on battery #2 goes to positive on S/P switch. Negative cable on #2 goes to the starter.

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  • 3 years later...
6 minutes ago, Underdog said:

I converted my F over to 12v negative ground and eliminated the S/P switch(it had a broken stud anyway). It cranked the 24v starter OK with 2 group 31 batteries, but when I upgraded the engine I also put in a 12v starter. Simple and reliable.

After I bought the 12 volt starter for mine a local garage owner told me my 24 volt probably would have been fine.   He was working on a local farm truck one time that was negative ground 12volt and it had a 24 volt starter on it for nobody new how long.     

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1 hour ago, Hobert62 said:

After I bought the 12 volt starter for mine a local garage owner told me my 24 volt probably would have been fine.   He was working on a local farm truck one time that was negative ground 12volt and it had a 24 volt starter on it for nobody new how long.     

  Using a 12 volt or 24 volt starter they will both perform identically, but the 12V motor would draw twice as much current from its 12V supply compared to the 24V motor on a 24V supply. Same as a 6 volt starter has a higher draw than a 12 volt unit.   

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