slpwlker Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Sleepy we tried that as well no luck. The starter was replaced 2 years ago, but will try again tomorrow. How is our truck doing? IOU want to pull in the shop when back in Florida let me know.truck is doing good.No problem or complaints other then a few leaks that seem to be gettign worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Let me know if you need some time in the shop to check it out. The door is pen for you when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbigrig Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 No our 93 "MH"'s were E7-300's but I don't see where that would make a difference? We had 2 '85 "MH"'s with EM6-300's and 2 '87 "MH"'s with E6-300's and they all had the boxes on them like yours. Ron If I am not mistaken the '89 MH we had powered with an E9 had a series parallel switch located on the tower as well. The alternator was a 12 volt alternator with both 12V and 24V inputs to a funky regulator on the Alt. I'm pretty sure the batteries were wired in parallel (12V) up to the series parallel switch. If I remember correctly the series parallel switch would use the right and left 12V battery banks as normal 12V operation for gauges etc. It would take the 2 banks and put them in series to make 24V for starting only. The series parallel switch was used to accommodate the 24V starter if I'm not mistaken? This was only for E9 engines. I know the CL's with E9's were a complete 12V set up. If I got this wrong remind me what it was.....I know I will remember this correctly by tomorrow night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Thanks well we installed the new parts......... And no starting from the key bridged the solenoid again and it fires wright up. Dropped it off today at my friend at high power diesel. Get all done get her DOT ready so we can start working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpwlker Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 High power that a name I haven't heard in a long time. Thought they only made Cummins roll.Heard alot of good from them never dealt with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy5487 Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Well it has to be your key switch or the wire between the two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 I replaced the key switch for a new one, so it has to be a connection issue between the switch and the solenoid. I have the professionals look at it. The owner at high power loves old Mack's and is old school mechanic and knows mack well. When it comes to electrical issues I'm lost and don't want the truck go up in smoke. This way I get it done along with some other stuff and get to work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy5487 Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Im with ya out of working on anything i hate working on electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Try a 77 u- model with positive ground hit the horn one head light would come on side lights would go off on high beam' back up alarm CB AMFM . Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Mack Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 (edited) Hi Marcel been away and just seen your post... my MH613 is a 93, E9, 12v... the 24v start is an option if ordered.. take a look at how the batteries are linked together. starter solenoid is mounted on shift tower, usually wrapped in a rubber sheath... dumbass in my option... two other areas for bad wires are... 1. multi pin plug behind the rats nest of hoses in left front wheel well, good to clean it out anyway as it serves many systems 2. where hose and wire bundle passes over left front steering box, the half round support edge can pinch/rub wires..undo the tie-wrap and clean this area too I had similar problems... found the +ve #4 wire power supply from solenoid to fuse panel had rubbed and corroded, also same for wire from ign switch to solenoid, same area hope the pics make sense. BC Mack Edited November 9, 2017 by BC Mack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 Heh thanks will take a look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Well here a update, electrical issue regarding not starting resolved cause faulty ground wire, also got two rear axle shock replaced, four cab shocks replaced, idle issues resolved and working on the a/c at this moment. Than we will get fresh oil and filters and get fluids in the axles replaced. When all done she will go to the paint shop. I'm thinking to paint the chassis fire truck red and don't know yet on the cab. I'm thinking white top maybe black bottom. ( like to have opinion please) also I hope some one can get me the correct parts NR for the cab marker( bullit style) lights and the square mack air horn. Keep you posted on my mission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel67 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Like to follow this design, however chassis red and the cab stripped red. Like opinions please. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Baffin blue! Good to hear you are getting the "bugs" worked out. Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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