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new injection pump out of timing

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I have a 93 mack ch613 350 e6 no electronics, put a new injection pump on today. when pulled old pump, there is no key way in

the gear, put in pump on tdc 1. but is out of time when crank motor just a lot of white smoke. how do I time the pump to the motor?

bosch inline 6 pump

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With a A-B timing lite or low pressure time it buy removing the delivery valve . Best to have someone who has done this before set your timing. Most dealerships can make road call to your place to set timing.

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ok, after reading enough, figured out I put in the pump TDC not advanced, I looked at the valve covers but nothing readable there, Does anyone no what the advance on motor should be set to?

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I am going to give it a shot myself first, if I cant get it by Monday Ill call mack, dont have a lot of faith in them after having my truck up there a couple of times for different issues. Just was wanting,

what I need to advance it to. I do have a very talented mech helping when needed. And I am sure we can do this.

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See if you can contact Ballard Mack in Massachusetts, I have had good luck with them, ask them to see if they can fax or email you the couple pages you need.

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Those pumps need to be done by mack. If it was an old truck they could be a little off but any truck '85 or newer needs to be done by a dealer or someone who knows what they are doing by high pressure or you will burn a piston up when you put a load on it.

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would send pic but cant figure how to upload in bmt

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If anyone knows what I should timing specs on 1993 350 E6 should be I could get this done

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Hit more reply options and click attatch files

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I will talk to you like you don't know how so lets go. First to make sure your on # 1 cylinder pull rear Valve cover. Rotate the engine CW from the front until the exhaust valve on # 6 just closes and then the intake just starts to open. That is valve over lap and # 1 cyl is at top dead center.Back the engine up a few inches and you will see scribed degree marks in out side of the damper wheel at the engine timing pointer. You should back up past the marker a little and then put a fine mark on the 20 degree mark on the wheel.Now turn slow CW until the 20 aligns with the engine pointer stamped pump and not valve set.If you go past that always turn CCW enough to were your past then come back down to 20 going CW.Your thru turning the engine.Now take the plug out of the governor housing that is below the fuel shut off lever and there will be a tab or spad sticking out enough to see thru the hole in the housing. If the pump is in time it will be in the center of the hole. If not then pull the front cover off were you see 4 bolts in a slotted gear.Best to remove them if its out of time very much.You need a to turn the pump CW until you see the tab in the hole of the governor housing until you have it in the center and. You need a A B timing light to do it right but if your just wanting to get it running to get some were to get it done right then align the tab in the middle of the gobernor housing and install the 4 bolts in the front gear. You may have to remover the gear in front to get it were the bolts will go in. good luck. This is timeing procedure for a E 6. If it is a E 7 it is different but.

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ok heres how we did it, got every thing to tdc, got injection pump set to 1 removed gear from pump then backed off engine 20 degrees, ran but was blowing white smoke repeated adding 8 degrees more started and ran smooth a little white smoke as warmed then seems to run great..

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Are you using the split timing pointer and using the pump side instead valve set?And I cant tell you how important it is to get the tap or pointer inside of the governor housing hole in the center. Best with a A/B timing light.Look at the engine timing pointer on the front and make sure its not bent.

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What was the problem in the beginning reason pump was off, I may have missed something.

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started with a miss, felt and sounded like injectors, pulled them and had rebuilt, still had miss, determined it was number 2 pulled injector had it checked, also at that time checked

engine to make sure no valves were leaking, the fuel line on #2 had a little ding where it went into the injector so replaced line, still had the miss, still number 2, when loosing lines,

all spit fuel from the pump number 2 had to almost take line off pump to get fuel to come out. called local diesel shop but they couldn't look at it until monday or tuesday next week,

and rebuild would be between 800-2000 found a place that had the pump for 1600 and over nighted it. did make sure pointer was centered in hole. but with no key on gear didn;t

think and when tighting nut on pump it turned, and oops got out of time, do have a manual, but gave numbers between 19-30 degrees, pointer doesn't look bent but my old dog has

over a million on her and has been into a few times.

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That is the basics so start to check for low fuel pressure and sucking air. Both can cause white smoke.

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