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I now have the new windshield gasket and my new cut glass. I did not put the fenders on yet like I was hoping, so I decided I am going to try to install the windshield.

I asked at the glass shop what it would be for the install and they want more than what I paid for all the cut glass and rear window gasket. So I will give it a try. I have installed flat glass and Chevy windshields so I will take my time and keep my fingers crossed.

What are your all's tips like where to start, where to put sealant etc..

Thanks in advance and I will document the install for posterity.

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I used 3M putty strips cant recall but come in blue box. Put strips around pinch weld area and then press gasket over. Getting glass in is tricky and cant say what is best/easiest way. Lotsa cussing getting last corner in. If I recall I worked outside first then worked around to center strip. Didnt crack or break it so it was successful!!!

I paid local glass shop the $15? for putting in lock strip. Easier for them with the right tools and experience.

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I recall sometime back, (one of Rob's threads) he said the rubber wanted to buck outward and suggested to use several two by fours wedged into the rafters of a garage and overnight when glued dried he got better results.

mike

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I hung my new rubber in the "installed" manner to get it more into shape(by a couple hangers, so it hung in a rectangle shape). It was all bunched up in a box, so it had no shape.

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make sure the rubber is warm,and use lots and lots of patience,dish soap is good to use for lube.

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need some windshield sealant on the pinchweld. Mack never used any originally but with the new shiny paint and clear coat it will leak, trust me!. glue the gasket on and work the center strip in. after that i have used dish soap or even pumice hand cleaner or foamy glass cleane as lube. get yourself a fiberstick( the white ones) from a glass shop. have used a paint stick but the fiberstick is easier. lube it up and slide the glass in fron the side,(twards the center bar) keep pressure on it twards the front and work the gasket around top and bottom with fiberstick, take a break if you have to but it will slide right in. the lockin strip is the bitch part. get yourself the tool to do it and lube that up really well. never put any sealant on glass but make sure you seal gasket to the pinchweld and the gasket to the metal center bar. maybe even alittle more in the center cause it will leak and fill the ashtray full of water, trust me. haha

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Thanks for the info Matt....i'm getting ready for this install myself.

mike

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I was going to reuse the center metal strip (slides into the gasket with three holes) from the old gasket but it is to far gone for reuse so I asked my neighbor who does custom fabrication and sheet metal work to see if he can come up with something. He said it is close to 18 gage sheet metal.

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Matco and Lisle both make the Lock strip install tools cost about 12 or 14 bucks, Saves a ton of time putting in the lock strip after the glass is in.

post-3242-0-44505500-1352391210_thumb.jp

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hey thos tractor : What year chevy windshield, & did u use teh same rubber gasket set? thanks RIck alt ga. 6786130035

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hey thos tractor : What year chevy windshield, & did u use teh same rubber gasket set? thanks RIck alt ga. 6786130035

Sent you a PM caltran

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Sent you a PM caltran

Looks like he wants to give you your answer if it doesn't work out let me know

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Looks like he wants to give you your answer if it doesn't work out let me know

No, we were talking about some other things. He can use some help, start some new threads caltran and post some pics! Don't be afraid, they all want to see your truck apart or not :twothumbsup:

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Read with interest. One question how much 3M Strip-Calk and where applied other than the pinch weld area ?

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I put strings all around my drivers side, after the fact. Mine started leaking after I put new glass/rubber in. I pulled the lock strip out a couple winters ago, put caulk strips around outside and put lock strip back in. Seems dry. Mine does have some rusty issues and the edge is not smooth/flat anymore. Better to put it all around and not need it then find out it leaks.

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You used to be able to buy the tool on the order of those at Cleveland brothers from the one safe source book did the same type of rubber in the old cabs on equipment. 

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I think Lisle made the lock strip i used.   Should be easy to buy anywhere.

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