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Showing results for tags 'rear axle'.
I have a set of Rockwell rear ends I know they are 4;30 ratio but I would like to know how heavy they are rated there are 2 sets of # on the tag the first is A21 3200P1420 the next is AVC88067408 can any tell me anything about these.Thanks Alex
Hey guys im new to the site and im looking for a rear Aluminum top loading Center section (acutally looking for 2 matching ones) gear ratio im kinda open on. But i can always chage it later on. Also dont need the whole housing just the center itself. Dont need power devider or anything like that. Thanks Kyle
I went for a ride to my wife's work the day before yesterday and the rear pinion seal finally started puking instead of spitting up. So yesterday I changed the pinion seal on my truck so I thought I would post how to do it for posterity with pictures. The tools required- Hammer, small chisel and punch, 9/16” socket, ¾” Socket, 2 ¼” socket, diagonal side cutting pliers (dykes), small ratchet strap or rope, cleaning solution and safety glasses. Seal SKF 27452 Sleeve kit SKF 99275 1. Locate the rear axle yoke and u joint. Clean first as needed 2. Bend locking tabs back with small chisel or punch to release bolt heads that hold the u-joint caps to the rear yolk. Secure driveline with ratchet strap or rope. Carefully remove caps making sure not to lose the needle bearings from the cups. Maneuver u-joint and collapse drive shaft, move out of the way and secure 3. Remove cotter pin and nut, remove yolk 4. Remove seal housing bolts and remove, drive seal out, clean housing and replace pinion seal (coat seal with oil to prevent burn up on initial drive) On mine I had to install a speedy sleeve as the seal had worn the pinion and would not seal 5. Clean carrier face and remove old gaskets. I made a gasket for mine, if you choose to do this make sure to use gasket shellac on both sides and don’t over tighten. Reinstall and tighten bolts. 6. Reinstall yolk (I oiled outer sleeve and splines to help assist with installation) make sure to "clock" the yolk in the same position as removed to maintain driveline alignment, install nut to 400-500ft lbs ( per page 154 Mack manual dated 1960), install cotter pin. 7. Reinstall drive shaft being careful to not damage u-joint, reinstall caps and bolts, bend locking tabs up to lock bolts. <<Be careful not to over tighten>> 8. Clean up tools, check rear axle fluid level and wash rear axle and frame area if required. Since you are already dirty this would be a good time to flush and refill the rear differential. Drain plug is locate on the bottom of the housing uses a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, plug on rear axel is a 5/8" housing holds about 3.3 gallons so you will need to buy at least 4 gallons of gear oil. I use 85W -140 GL 5 extreme pressure, others use 80W-90 or 85W-90. My opinion- I would rather have the heavier oil as it keeps noise down, same viscosity when cold as the other but not thinned so much in the warm weather. As a side note read the container and make sure what ever you purchase it meets Mack specs.