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Showing results for tags 'Pinion'.
I have a ring and pinion for "CRD93" The pinion is 16 tooth and the ring is 17 tooth. These make a 3:86 ratio. Some people call it 3:87.....same thing, just depends if you round the 6 up to a 7 when you do the math. The gears are take outs that are in excellent shape with no problems what so ever. Still has the pinion bearing on it to make things a little easier. These are listed on ebay for $80 with $20 shipping but if you buy them off here I will cover the shipping since I wont have ebay fees and they will also be insured either way at my expense. If youre interested text or call TJ 870-362-0013
I went for a ride to my wife's work the day before yesterday and the rear pinion seal finally started puking instead of spitting up. So yesterday I changed the pinion seal on my truck so I thought I would post how to do it for posterity with pictures. The tools required- Hammer, small chisel and punch, 9/16” socket, ¾” Socket, 2 ¼” socket, diagonal side cutting pliers (dykes), small ratchet strap or rope, cleaning solution and safety glasses. Seal SKF 27452 Sleeve kit SKF 99275 1. Locate the rear axle yoke and u joint. Clean first as needed 2. Bend locking tabs back with small chisel or punch to release bolt heads that hold the u-joint caps to the rear yolk. Secure driveline with ratchet strap or rope. Carefully remove caps making sure not to lose the needle bearings from the cups. Maneuver u-joint and collapse drive shaft, move out of the way and secure 3. Remove cotter pin and nut, remove yolk 4. Remove seal housing bolts and remove, drive seal out, clean housing and replace pinion seal (coat seal with oil to prevent burn up on initial drive) On mine I had to install a speedy sleeve as the seal had worn the pinion and would not seal 5. Clean carrier face and remove old gaskets. I made a gasket for mine, if you choose to do this make sure to use gasket shellac on both sides and don’t over tighten. Reinstall and tighten bolts. 6. Reinstall yolk (I oiled outer sleeve and splines to help assist with installation) make sure to "clock" the yolk in the same position as removed to maintain driveline alignment, install nut to 400-500ft lbs ( per page 154 Mack manual dated 1960), install cotter pin. 7. Reinstall drive shaft being careful to not damage u-joint, reinstall caps and bolts, bend locking tabs up to lock bolts. <<Be careful not to over tighten>> 8. Clean up tools, check rear axle fluid level and wash rear axle and frame area if required. Since you are already dirty this would be a good time to flush and refill the rear differential. Drain plug is locate on the bottom of the housing uses a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, plug on rear axel is a 5/8" housing holds about 3.3 gallons so you will need to buy at least 4 gallons of gear oil. I use 85W -140 GL 5 extreme pressure, others use 80W-90 or 85W-90. My opinion- I would rather have the heavier oil as it keeps noise down, same viscosity when cold as the other but not thinned so much in the warm weather. As a side note read the container and make sure what ever you purchase it meets Mack specs.
Hi, I bought a 1976 Mack dm685 truck from the USA last year, I live in nigeria and I have a problem getting parts for my truck, I need the pinion that's within the axle, only problem is the part is extremely scarce here and the few people that have it will once sell the entire axle, which is too expensive, I won't mind buying one from the USA and shipping it back to Nigeria. If anyone has info on how or where I can get this parts ( pinion) i'd really appreciate it.