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EWB555

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Everything posted by EWB555

  1. I feel your pain on this-I have a 95 e7 400 that I was getting the same codes & engine derate. I was able to make the 3-4 go away by changing the sensor in the side of the pump, the 3-5 ended up being the ECM. If I had it to do all over again I would just bite the bullet and take it to Mack. I blew $500 on a new econovance solonoid trying to fix it myself, then the shop I took it to charged me their labor rate to throw parts at it themselves, they changed the timing sensor in the flywheel housing, rebuilt the actual econovance unit, and ultimately the ECM was the problem. Runs great now, but it was a complete nightmare! I wish you luck whatever you decide to do. ---Also I made the same mistake of thinking the 3-5 code was Jake Brake Solonoid instead of Timing Acutator, guess you cant believe everything you read on the internet.
  2. Thanks! Yes that sensor was replaced early on and was causing the 3-4 Code. The 3-5 was a conbination of the econovance needing rebuilt, which made it go longer between throwing the code, however the problem was not fixed until they swapped out the ECM. I drove the thing myself for the first time today, and wow what a difference in the power, the high flow injectors & new ECM really make the thing very responsive & able to cruise up hills without being in the fuel all the way. All symptoms I had are gone, no smoke & no engine derate. I cant wait to drive it loaded (my dad works the truck during the week, I just ran it to the truck wash today)
  3. Put the truck in the shop finally...they had a hard time and its a long miserable story but it seems the problem was the ECM. They also fixed my exhaust manifold leak & installed new injectors (they put high flow ones in, I'm told they are mild) It was ran on the dyno to verify the repair & that the timing is correct, It put 369HP to the wheels (I was given the printout). The torque number on the printout is crazy high, I think you have to divde by the gear ratio which gives me 1549 ft lbs to the wheels which seems consistant since from what I can find on the internet an E7 454 is rated @1660 to the flywheel. 2 days so far with no derate!
  4. My truck has a 12 speed, and the tag under the deep reduction switch reads "only use with Main in 1st" I'm thinking your truck has a 12 speed to, 5 speed pattern that you can split each gear, for ten, then you put the shifter in 1st and flip the switch on the dash (it will lock the transmission in first) and you have 2 more gears lower then 1st, one with the button in low and one with the button in direct for a total of 12. Make sure the truck is stopped when you flip the swith to go into Lo Lo.-and when you take it out. As far as the power divider goes, it locks all 4 rear wheels in for extra traction off road, it will be on a seperate switch. Mine is on top of the dash, your truck may have an automatic power divider, the 78 mack I drove years ago did not have a switch on the dash, but i was told the power divider was automatic, kind like a limited slip differential. A good rule of thumb is if you have to use the power divider to get there, you probably shouldnt be there. Its best used if you back into a soft spot to dump the load and the truck gets stuck trying to get out, again the truck should be stopped before you lock the power divider. (if your truck has a switch)
  5. Are you sure its set at 400 HP? The only reason I ask is we used to have a LTL with a 400 Cummins & 13 Speed, also had a 78 R Model with a 300 & 6Speed and 20MPH Difference on a pull seems about right to me (Both Tandem Dumps Hauling 65K) You also have to remember that Cummins is 855 Cubic inches and the Mack is 728 (Pretty sure), and if the Cummins is turned up any, the Mack will never run with it. I dont think a transmission swap would have a great enough effect on how it pulls to be worth the time & money. I would have the motor checked to verify current rating.
  6. First truck I ever drove was a 78 R Model with a 300+ and 2 stick 6 Speed. I would say power was good for what it was, especially since it had that tiny intercooler box. This one may do better with the 13 speed, but given that its geared to run 85 I'd say its not going to pull too well. The truck I drove would run 63 @2300. My 1995 E7 400 (when its not in derate mode) runs SIGNIFICANTLY stronger, and its only geared to run 73.
  7. Sorry, I'm not a tech or anything. The one I posted was found on the internet while trying to solve a problem with my truck.
  8. 45-sb2210371.pdfI found a bulliten on Code 3-4 when searching for information on how to fix my truck. Take a look, I think it may apply to your problem. Good Luck!
  9. Well, here is some good news. I fixed Code 34 by replacing the engine position sensor (easily screws in the side of the pump) -Mack had given me the wrong part as I suspected. Bad news is it still smokes and still derates, and still spits out code 35 for the Jake Solonoid output 1. Kris, I have tried beating on the old econovance however that did not make a difference. Oil pressure is good, and I really hope its not an internal problem. I did read that a sticking Jake solonoid can cause the engine to smoke. My Jake works fine for the most part (it doesnt come on full in the morning until the engine gets warm) , and the smoke clears up when you go down the road and get the engine warm. Who knows at this point. I'm glad I fixed a code, however it sucks the code wasnt causing any of my symptoms.
  10. Thanks! I figure eventually I'll be able to talk it out myself!
  11. Here's a little more info I figured out yesterday. Before the derate the code is 34 (Engine Position Sensor) After the truck goes into Derate mode it spits out code 35 (Jake Solonoid output 1) Is the engine position sensor on this truck on the front of the flywheel housing below the starter? Had the wife pick up the part from Mack and I can find nothing that looks like what they gave me, so I'm thinking they gave me a sensor for a newer model. (it has an 0-Ring and looks like a Crank Sensor for a car) The sensor on the flywheel housing of my truck appears to be a screw in type, and looks exactly like the speed sensor I replaced on the back of the transmission a few months ago. I appreciate anyones help or Input! (I know I've been talking to myself last 4 posts, but hey at least the process is documented!)
  12. Anybody? I've looked all over the internet can can find very little information about these codes. Would really appreciate some help, I feel like I'm finally close to fixing this thing.
  13. Ok do def wasted $500 bucks, engine still smokes and derates. On the positive side I found the engine malfunction light, the bulb socket had fallen out of the indicator and I kept noticing a light shining under the dash when I drive the truck in the dark. The truck flashed Code 3-4 the first several times I hit the cruise button, however today it only flashed 3-5, according to what I can find the first code is engine position sensor, and the second is jake brake output 1. Can anyone tell me what to check/replace to fix this issue? I'm hoping this could be the key to all my problems.
  14. Well, I hope it works the same for me. My Jake doesnt quit working when it goes into Derate mode, just the cruise control quits. With your truck being a 98 i'm pretty sure the fuel delivery system is different, the newer ones have the individual injector pumps, where mine is the single pump with electronic control (looks the same as the mechanical but with an electrical connector in the back instead of a throttle linkage) If it didnt take care of the derate, I'm definately going to bite the bullet and put the truck in the shop.
  15. So my transmission has 2 of these inversion valves bolted together on the side. The outer one was leaking air out the end of it, I believe its the exhaust, so I replaced it. Aired the truck up, backed it out, shut it off, no leaks, thought I was good to go, then today I pulled it in. and the new valve is doing the exact same thing. I would guess something is backfeeding through the valve causing it to leak. Also someone has color coded the airlines with zip ties, so I know I put the line back in the correct place (unless they coded them wrong previously)
  16. Well, Took the $500 gamble. I've been thinking it could be the econovance solonoid, and between the mechanic saying the timing is off, and the posts i've read about the econovance I mean the "Skipping and blue smoke" post I could have written about my truck. Installed the new one today, I too could not find any screens in the old or new one. It still smokes like hell when you start it, but clears up as soon as you go down the road. At like 1400 RPM of part throttle this thing pumps out smoke and feels like its missing, it clears when you mash it, and as long at the water temp is around 180 it doesnt do it at all. So if i leave the house, drive an hour to the quarry, then sit for 30 min to get loaded, water temp falls back, and the think smokes like hell at part throttle, but again clears up if you hammer it. I'm praying the econovance fixed the derate problem, however it certainly did not fix the smoke isse, which doesnt leave me too hopeful. I drove it for about 30 minutes, and it did not derate, but sometimes it lasts an hour. I figured I might have blew $500 so I shouldnt ride around and waste fuel, we'll see what happens this week.
  17. Its "First Gear" I bought it off one of our internal websites a few years ago, think I paid $25 bucks or so. (I work for Shell Lubricants Selling Pennzoil/Quaker State & Shell Rotella to installers) Grew up around trucks, first one I ever drove was a 78 R Model Dump, 300 6 Speed. I learned real quick the Mack was a more reliable truck then the LTL 's my Dad had. When I decided this year I wanted to buy a truck of my own to work on the side, budget dictated an older truck, the thought of anything but a Mack scared the Hell out of me!
  18. The Pennzoil Wrecker reminded me of the Pennzoil Tractor Trailer I have on my desk, Technically its the first Mack I ever owned. The Quaker State truck is a Freightliner.
  19. So I read an older post on here, titled "Skipping & Blue Smoke" and the symptoms the guy describes seem to fit my truck perfect, and its a 94 so same electronics. The only difference is he stated the "electronic malfunction light" came on, when the engine derated and for the life of me I cannont find the light in my truck, and I am told the computer has no codes (but maybe the derate doesnt set a hard code) The reccommendation is to remove the screens from the econovance & if that does not fix the problem replace the selonoid. Is there a way to test the selonoid? Owner in the post states he tapped the ecovance selonoid with a screwdriver and the smoke cleared up, so he knew it was the econovance selonoid. Anyone know a more reliable way to make the diagnosis? Those selonoids are pretty pricy. As always I appreciate anyones input!
  20. First of all thanks for the reply! I will have to look at the truck to see which line looks new, as that work was performed 2 owners ago (Guy I bought it from didnt have it long at all). Looked at the invoice and did the math, they charged for 3 feet of hose so it should be easy to figure out, (unless they just charge for 3) I doubt it was the line from the oil filter to the pressure gauge as that is leaking now, so the econovance oil line is definately a possibility. I called the one owner who had the work done at Mack , and he said its a new pump, and the truck did not smoke like that when he had it, the reason he took it to Mack is it used to shut off on him going down the road. He sold the truck to the guy I bought it from right after he got it back from Mack, The guy I bought the truck from says its smoked since he owned it, so maybe the timing was never set correctly in the pump. Why do you suggest bumping the timing up 1.5 from the factory setting?
  21. Had the computer scanned today-No fault Codes Found. Mechanic thinks its a timing issue, since when it smokes it misses slightly. However he recommended I take it to Mack. Last thing I want to do is pay dealer labor rate, anyone have an idea what could cause my issues and not set a code? When he said timing, the first thing I thought about was the econovance.
  22. 1995_Mack_Repair_Sheet_2_of_31.pdf Ok so I've posted on this before however I didn't provide all the information as I had come to the conclusion the 2 issues were unrelated, but now I'm re -thinking.1995_Mack_Repair_Sheet_3_of_31.pdf The truck is a 95 E7 400 VMAC I I believe (Pump looks just like the mechanical ones however electronically controlled) My issues are as follows: Smoke-Truck Smokes a ton at start up, let it idle for a few and clears up. Take off to leave and engine smokes more, and feels like its missing, shift one or two gears and it clears up pretty quick, stops missing as well. Runs fine (that is until derate mode kicks in, I'll get to that in a minute) If I arrive on a job somewhere and idle for more then a minute or two, truck smokes again when I take off, then clears up pretty quick. When going down the road, the truck smokes very little its only on initial startup and after idle. -When the truck smokes its definatelty an excessive amount, not normal for sure, Derate-Truck will run strong for about an hour in the mornining (Puts out 34 psi of boost on a pull) then the computer cuts it back and will not allow more then 24 which really kills the pulling power loaded. If I shut the truck off and restart, it goes back to full power, it may last 2 miles, or up to ten or so. Again I though the smoke was unrelated as when the truck goes into derate you are going down the road and it is not smoking. I have replaced the speed sensor in an attempt to fix the derate, however it did not correct the problem, and the speedometer still acts up every now and then. I have only owned this truck since june, and it has been having these problems since i bought it (knew about the smoke when I bought the truck and adjusted offer accordingly) I have reciepts from the local Mack dealer that I have attached showing work done to the truck before I purchased, it had one injector replaced and the pump was either replaced or rebuilt. I was beginning to think the problem was in the pump, or injectors however I realized this work was only performed 40,000 miles ago. Does anyone have an idea, I was thinking maybe the econovance is acting up?
  23. I cant offer any information on the gear ratio, but my truck has a 12 Speed and I love it! Drive like a 5 speed when empty or on a downhill, or split every gear on a pull (or if you like to shift gears)
  24. Good to know, so maybe I dont have another thing on the list to fix.
  25. I cheked the Yolk bolt it was tight. There was no metal on the old sensor but the seal is leaking so there was trans grease on it. Speedo still acts up from time to time, however trip odometer has never been right, reads about 5 miles for every 50, could it just be the speedometer itself? Its really not a major concern, unless its whats causing the engine to derate-in that case it is a major concern. I havent changed anymore parts to fix the derate, as the speed sensor made the most sence due to the speedo acting up, I need to have the computer scanned before "throwing another part at it" The other observation I made is that it seems to go into derate faster when on the highway, I can run 30-50 MPH roads and it seems to go much longer before cutting the power back. Which to me makes me think its still speed sensor related.
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