smorse54

Wayne, there is a bank of electric over air solenoids on the right side frame rail by the front of the fifth wheel.These run the power divider, the lockers, air ride dump valve, fifth wheel slider. You buy another solenoid unit and add to the existing bank.There is an electrical plug for the solnoids, can't recall which locations are for PTO, but your dealer can tell you.Add a switch in the dash and plug it into PTO harness in dash.Run air line from solenoid to PTO. Myself I would just put in an air switch and save alot of time and money if I were running truck myself.I set up trucks with PTO drven blowers for pnuematic tanks at work and set them up as described so the ECM controls the engine speed when PTO is engaged to prevent drivers from overspeeding blowers.But as stated, if your'e using it yourself save the hassle. Steve

I purchased a used left side door for my RWS. This door came off a firetruck and had the tag on it. Anyone who wants this tag can PM me with their address and I will send it free of charge. It is CF611F1812. Didn't want to throw it out if someone wants it. I stripped and primed the door a year ago,but remember it was from a fire dept. in PA.,just don't recall the name. Steve

Yes, you have to pull the cover off the rear compound. Rob is refering to the main shift cover that has the forks that shift the main . In some chassis ther is not enough clearance to remove that cover. But,yes you have to remove the rear cover if you plan on taking rear section off as ther are 2 bolts in there for the rear case. These are both at the top where you can easily see and remove them. I haven,t forgot trying to get pics of the holding fixture. Steve

I have casually looked for 2 days, cannot find kit. must be loaned out. If you take top cover of rear section you will see what you have to do.Maybe someone else on here can help with pics. sorry, Steve

Hi, if you need to replace/inspect clutch go ahead and pull complete trans. But if this is only problem it is easier to make or borrow a fixture .if you remove the top cover from the compound section you will see the bearing retainer for the rear of the mainshaft. This is held on by 7/16' bolts. remove the top left bolt. You want to make a bracket that is attachted thru this bolt hole and extends rearward and goes into the sliding clutch of the syncro. If the syncro is held forward that in turn holds the 3 countershafts so the cover can be removed without the shafts falling out.I can take pictures tomorrow of the fixture and post after work. Steve

Yes, it's a very common problem on these.You don't have to remove the whole trans. to replace the clutch packs.There are tools available to hold the countershafts in place to remove the back section. Or you can make your own. Should have a manual before doing this. Steve

I think watts has them in several colors for around $40. Steve

Most take a 5-170X. Steve

I've built several RW and CH gliders in the mid 80's and early 90's. These were of course mechanical E-6 engines so not much electrical to hook up. I would choose an existing truck and order exhaust, motor mounts, CMCAC piping using that serial number.With the components ready to install I would figure on 40 hours labor.Now we are buying complete gliders . We have 3 2012 and 1 2013 Freightliners with 1999 model year 12.7 Detroits. We got sick of the particulat filters, the ARD heads and double turbo Cat nonsense. So far these have been super(only 40K miles). Good luck and I know your'e doing the right thing. Steve

It sounds like the turn signal switch to me. The tractor turn signals and brake lights go thru the turn signal switch. Good luck, Steve

Pawel, some trucks have sliding fifth wheels to distribute the weight of the loaded trailer onto the tractor. Here in NY State the front axle is allowed 12,000 pounds, the tandems 34,000 pounds and the position of the fifth wheel determines where the load goes. The further ahead, the more weght to steer axle.Trial and error tells you where it belongs. Good luck, Steve

Don, that wasn't Walt Cherry's truck from Alden, was it. I'm trying to figuire out where I've seen it, looks familiar. Good luck with it. If you need any parts let me know, Ive always got something going on. Steve

Looks good Don. I like that winter package on the air cleaner. Did you find the KW locally?You'll have it looking like new . Steve

Hi, Phil Young at Global Truck Parts will have it all.603-239-7008. Quick and reasonable. Steve

Hope you have a wonderful day Mike! And lots more to follow! Steve

Pawel, glad we could help out. The sleeper that was on my truck was a 60" Able. This had 6 mounts as does Ray's. I have sold this and have a 42" Able That came as factory on a 1989 Superliner. The 36" and 42" use only 4 mounting brackets, and yes there are lefts and rights.On the Superliner 2 (like Ray's) the front brackets also attach to the muffler brackets/stands. Mack used a rubber insulator where the bolted together there.My truck has a 2 valve E-6 350 engine. Steve

Ray, I see you took off your exhaust stacks like you thought you might. Doesn't look bad. I'm sure it will be slipperier with less wind drag. Talk to you soon, Steve

Sorry, try this.

Here's thse pics I promised.These are 5 1/2 inches high, 7 inches at the bottom, and 3 inches wide at top.

I've got mine off, I'll take a couple of pics today and post them tonight.Steve

Hi,had the same transmission in a 1979 RWL770LST. Did the same thing, never was able to make it smooth. Finally replaced it with an RTO14613 Fuller after 500K miles of being pissed.The dealers said it was normal. Good luck,Steve

Phil, I recieved the muffler brackets UPS today. Exactly what I wanted. Thanks, Steve

Phil, those muffler mounting brackets on this cab are the ones I spoke with you about for my RWS. Are these for sale? I need 2 sets for dual exhaust.Please let me know. Thanks, Steve

Rob, I have the manuals at work. I can have Mark fax you a copy of the plumbing schematic tomorrow. Steve

Hi, the exhaust is .024, the intake is .016. Make sure you use timing marks either on flywheel or on vibration damper.This depends on whether it's mechanical or electronic, early E-7 s were either way. As for the Jake I believe .080 is the proper clearance for that. you may want to check wiyh a dealer for that spec after you determine the specific engine model.Good luck, steve