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smorse54

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Everything posted by smorse54

  1. Take some 3" or 4" channel iron and make a bracket that goes under the pan and up both sides (like a U only with square corners). Make the legs long enough so it clears the boottom of the pan. Just use a bottle jack centered under it to raise the engine. Place it as far rearward as you can. If you have any older Macks with the ESI Plus pan make the legs longer so it will work on them also. Hope you can follow me. Steve
  2. The 59 has a 285, you can see the tip turbine fan. The '57 has Neway ARD suspension. I'm buying the "59 and stretching it and putting in a set of Eaton DS/RS 402 rears on Pete airleaf. Just got to break the news to the little lady.
  3. This and close to 20 others have been listed on this sight since Sept.25. Not a single response. I listed this an hour ago on Ebay and already it got noticed!
  4. I just went and bought a 42" Alumibunk off an R model. This has dual exhaust cutouts with brackets in the cutouts to mount pipes.Was told it was a 36" Able ,but when I got there realized it was not. It is in nice shape, the paint is even decent, so I bought it hoping somebody may have an interest in it. If this tickles you drop me a PM on this site and we"ll talk about it. Won't have pictures til next weekend when I go get it. Thanks,Steve
  5. Sean, you can install any Eaton Fuller.Just make sure you get a bell housing for a Mack.These have the mounting pads on the sides. I got the ones I installed from Camerotas in Conn. They were able to supply the correct shift lever, bell housing and the correct shift cover position. They seemed very eager to take the Mack cores also. I would give them a call. I,m sure I have spelled thier name wrong, but you can look them up. Good luck, Steve
  6. Hi, It sounds to me like it needs to be timed.Did you check after pump was installed? The timing tool screws into the side of the pump where the timing event sensor is. Thanks, Steve
  7. Rob,I have the invoice in front of me from Hunter Pete. These rails for the 388 I just did were 3243.77 each for a total of 6487.54. These are 5/16 or metric equiv..Quite pricey for total blanks. Just something for a guide when you call PG Adams. Thanks, Steve
  8. Rob, who is PG Adams? Is that the place in Vermont that makes frame rails? Thanks, Steve
  9. Rob ,I checked out the frame rails this afternoon. The 359 has 1/4" rails 10 3/8" high. My 379 has 5/16" by 10 1/2" rails.The 379 rails are about 25 feet from front to back, about a 240" wheelbase. The 359 has a steering box mounted to the rear of front spring, 379 is at front of frame. Looks like nothing would really match in the front as far as that goes. Probably better off finding 359 rails, lots less work. Thanks,Steve
  10. hi, we have 3 2006 Visions with T310 transmissions. These were all 3 trouble with syncros and lo-range drive gears.All were purchased new and all 3 were rebuilt and rebuilt again until warranty ran out and we replaced them with Eaton Fuller 16210C. End of trouble.Steve
  11. Rob,I'll check and compare these rails with a 359 tomorrow. One of our o/o's has a 1984 359 with a steel frame. I'll compare this to my 379 rails and see if they are close. I'll let you know,Steve
  12. Rob, I have a 1994 Pete 379 extended hood I'm parting out. This had a63" sleeper, not sure of wheelbase,will measure tomorrow.It has a single frame, no damage or accident. It has Air track suspension. I just reframed a 2010 388 Pete with blanks from Paccar, believe me these are total blanks, not a hole or anything. All the Macks I've done had the rails drilled for the ftont spring hangers and cab mounts, not these Peterbilt rails.thanks,Steve
  13. I just replaced the 3 steel air tanks on my superliner 1 with aluminum tanks. The right side tank was in very good condition, must have been recently replaced. Rather than throw this in the steel dumpster I would be willing to give this to anyone willing to pick it up or pay UPS from 14066.If you have an old Superliner you know these are 10" in dia. by 22" long and all three tanks are the same. so will fit any position. Any body intetrested just PM me. Thanks,Steve
  14. These are quite rare. The only ones I've ever seen belonged to Tobin's First Prize Meats. In the early 70's these trucks could be seen often between Rochester and Albany, NY on the Thruway along with the R models Tobin had. No idea how many were made, but must have been rare as these were the few I ever saw. Thanks,Steve
  15. I put a set of 7 inch Dynaflex stacks on a Freightliner Classic for a customer last year. They are high quality,the finish is great,the elbows fit. I really liked the way the stacks joined together under the mounting brackets so it looks like one piece.I would Neversieze the upper stack so it could be swapped out for your needs. I see this truck regularly and they still look like new.These would be my choice. Steve
  16. Baz, yea, I've done this lots of timesWe ran a fleet of 25+ of these . Normally you can get the hose on, there is only about a half an inch betwwen the water manifold sections. If you run out of patience remove the rear section. You'l need a 9/16 swivel head wrench to get the 2 lower bolts. Thanks, Steve
  17. Baz, you shouln't have to remove the rear section to do this. If you slit the old hose to remove it and use a new silicone hose it will go on. I suggest a silicone hose because it is softer and will be easier to get on . I use dish soap like Dawn or Joy to lube it up. You should have no problem, Steve
  18. That would be a DV550. These were a 549 gasser made into a diesel. They idled on 4 cylinders then all 8 kicked in when you accelerated. Don't remember these being a very reliable or longlasting engine. Steve
  19. Hi guys, I'm putting together an 84 Superliner with AL40 suspension. This has 16.5 by 7" Q plus shoes, I'm planning on putting one R-12 service brake valve for each drive axle. My concern is what crack pressure to use, 3,4,or 5.5 lbs. Don't know what would have been factory, and this suspension was from a '99 CH so it had ABS. This will be a working tractor pulling a pnuematic tank at 80,000 gross. These tanks are very light and tend to lock up when braking empty, so I thought of going with a 3 lb. crack pressure on tractor to compensate. Any input appreciated, Steve
  20. Green Giant, your truck sure looks nice! Saw it at the show in Batavia in August, I was all over and under it. Didn't see you, wanted to tell you what a great job you did on the old girl. Steve
  21. Hi, I've got a bunch of old dealer parts books. Most of these are in very good condition. They are:(1)H-61T, (2)H-60ST, (3) H-63T, (4) H-61ST,(5) B-50T,(6) B-30S,(7) LFT, (8)43-SBX,49-SBN,49-SB,55-SB school buses, (9)model EG, (10) Model BG, (11)B-43X, (12) B41X, (13) B41S, (14)B-30P,30T,30X, (15) B-72T,72LT,72S,72LS,72LST,(16)B-42SX poor cover, (17) B-421, (18) B-71ST.Need to sell these so I can finish my Superliner. Call or pm me with your needs . 585-493-3065 Thanks, Steve
  22. THANKS RHASLER! WAS HOPING YOU WOULD SEE THIS AND RESPOND. NOW I CAN FINISH JOB IN MORNING AND SAVE ALOT OF TIME AND TRIAL AND ERROR.
  23. I'VE PUT A PTO ON A NEW CXU. i PUT AN ADDITIONAL SOLENOID BLOCK ON THE AIR UNIT ON RIGHT FRAME RAIL UNDER 5TH WHEEL, A PTO SWITCH IN DASH. WAS WONDERING IF SOME ONE CAN TELL ME WHERE IN CONNECTOR I NEED TO PUT WIRES FROM PTO SOLENOID TO MAKE UNIT WORK. THANKS,STEVE
  24. Hi, I would just put the engine on no. 1 T.D.C. TAke off the front valve cover and turn the motor over til both intake and exhaust valves on no. 1 cylinder are loose when timing pointer is on T.D.C. If the valves aren't loose when it is on T.D.C. then turn one whole revolution and they will be.When the pump is removed the blind spline will be at the 2 o'clock position. So when installing the pump make sure the pump coupler is also at that position for ease of assembly. After the pump is installed it must be timed with either a high pressure timing pump or by removing the delivery valve and using a low pressure pump. The timing spec will be on engine tag. Enjoy, Steve
  25. Hi,I've removed quite a few of these myself. I use good carbide drill bits. I center punch the broken stud and start with a 1/8" bit drilling completely thru the stud. Then I use a 1/4" bit, again going all the way thru the stud.Lots of penetrating oil and an easy out and they will come out. Be patient and carefully get the hole centered and drill straight. Good luck,Steve
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