Rob

If you have the "B" style hubcaps, and have oil hubs, you probably have a FA505 steer axle. This is a light duty tractor axle. An FA522 uses a flat stamped cap with "Mack" script in the center. It is heavier and has larger bearings. The FA505 has a small center cap that looks like an oil filter from a small car that unscrews from the hub when used with wheel bearing grease. I don't know about a FA600 series front axle. Rob

Thanks for the research Jim. I have not removed the cover as of yet. Still "licking my wounds" so to speak. How's your "B" model project progressing? Rob

Hi Noid, the only difference is the "bung" that the electrical connector mounts through. I believe other than that they are the same. Thanks, Rob

Does anyone have an E6 valve cover with dynatard they can do without? I knocked my daughters engine over the other night moving her chassis around and an air conditioning bracket laying on the floor broke the fall. This was actually good fortune as the turbocharger would have smacked the floor and probably broken either it, or the manifold from the impact. The one I need is stamped steel, and the front if there is any difference. Thanks, Rob 309-219-2070

Hi Skip, what did the cooling passages look like in the head? I'll bet there was very limited service to this area. Rob

I got to digging into some older and newer service literature that I have and the new style latch was introduced mid 1976, with a mandate to use existing stock, (manufacturing level) until depleted. At that point use the new "double pawl" latch. The new "double pawl" style latch was mandated to be used July 1st, 1979 and therafter. Warranty repairs were to also include the newer style latch. Rob

I don't know how to make a You Tube video. If you can explain, I will do it if possible. Rob

I have a ENDT865 in my R model with the fuel turned up way too much. I've only pulled a full belly dump grain trailer once, but it sure pulled strong with lots of thick, black smoke. Rob

That is the method that I use also. Don't go "balls wild" with the wedgie, or you'll have deformed rails but use slow deliberate jacking, and beating to loosen the rust. The combination of hydraulic force, and impact will loosen the rails with time. I usually weld up a striking pad that hangs over the top flange so I don't beat directly on the frame itself. Pay particular attention to the inside of the flange area when the rails are apart to ensure the steel is not wafer thin from rust. Good luck as you have a job ahead of you. Rob

You could probably use it as is but that is probably. Any twist, or deformation and it is a no go. If you look to where the paint on the frame has stopped burning, and cut off 12 inches back from there, it would be safe to use. I've done that several times. Rob

Try looking at the front of the flywheel housing on the driver's side of the truck. It should be a hole with a pointer under a cover unless it is missing. Rob

I will post a picture when I'm back at the shop. There are a couple of other places that the timing marks could be but the bottom was the most common place. Rob

350 rpm idle speed, (hot). Rob

Try through the hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing. There is a pointer and the marks are on the flywheel. Rob

I agree. Doesn't seem to fit the rounded shape. I am fond of the Aussie type front lamping of the "R" models though with quad 7" round lamps. I've seen a couple of conversions where the inner lamps were 100 plus watt driving lamps, and that is what I plan to do with mine. Need to see first hand what that "deer in the headlamps look is".......... Rob

Most any of the 672 cubic inch Mack engines will fit in there without a lot of trouble. My recomendation would be to upgrade to a later engine such as a 237 Mack and a different transmission also. The TRD-67 will not stand up to torque rise of the newer engines unless a "feather touch" on the accelerator is used. This is assuming the truck is "worked". Parts are very near non existent for that series of transmission also. If you decide to use a Fuller transmission, the flywheel housing will have the correct mounts as Fuller transmissions do not serve for the rear engine mount as the Mack transmissions do. The Mack transmission mounts to frame brackets that are bolted to the truck frame, and Fuller transmissions mount to the flywheel housing, and the flywheel housing is connected to the frame of the truck via mounting brackets. The starter location with the later style flywheel housing damn near necessitates removing the left fender and liner to change also as the position is just under the driver's feet. Having the small duplex transmission, (TRD-67) may require a driveline switch to larger size but I'm not sure. Most of the B series trucks with the END-673 engine used a 1710 series, (full round) style driveline measuring just over six inches across the yokes. I had installed a ENDT-676 engine into my 57 B-61 with an RTO-910 transmission behind, and did not like the power combination. The engine was never in it's operational torque band and always running out of gear. Don't get me wrong, it ran perfect, just not suited for my application at the time. Of course with any change, there will be modifications to the truck. Just be sure you have enough cooling capacity through the radiator to cool the beast. Rob

I was looking through a Federal-Mogul catalog and pistons/liners were listed for engines converted to Maxidyne series. What does this conversion consist of? I've got several "tired" Thermodynes that could use freshed up if not cost prohibitive. Thanks, Rob

As has been mentioned compression is probably finding it's way into the cooling system. I have seen this symptom several times through the years. Rob

I've used the input shaft from a roadranger transmission, (two inch) for years as a line up tool. Works flawlessly. Rob

I glass beaded, and cleaned the inside of the shell this evening, soldered in the new heating element and switch, cleaned the check valve assembly and put it all back together. It works a lot better. The unloading is quick and does not linger any longer. The brakes also do not apply within 15 minuets with the engine shut off, (at least so far). This was a good call and advice offered here was followed to the letter. I called Bendix to see if I could get a replacement set of decals for this thing but they are obsolete of course, as is the dryer itself. All three air tanks under the truck were bone dry. Not a spot of water came out of any of them when the drain cocks were opened. The dryer sure had a surplus of water built up inside though. All in all, I'm very pleased with the way this turned out. I did not replace the check valve as it cleaned up very well. I'm going to retain the replacement for "just in case". Until the next project......... Rob

Glenn: Great call on the ball check valve. It was not located on the tank but rather on the side of the dryer itself. It screwed into the housing and the discharge line to the tank attached to it. It was not sealing and I could readily push, or pull air through it both ways, (and I am not that much of a blowhard)!! Anyways, I got the rebuild kit, (complete), plus the purge valve rebuild kit, heater kit, check valve, and overpressure protection valve for a grand total of $94.60. I didn't think that was too bad. With all the parts, the only things reused are the main case, baseplate, and retaining ring. This rebuild should be a giant leap forward to having a reliable brake system ensuring the "Go" has some "Whoa" also. Thanks again for the help!! Rob

I took the air dryer off of the truck this evening and was pleasantly surprised how easily it came apart. The heater has continuity, but the "klaxon" switch is calling for heat and it is 65 degrees in the shop this evening. My preferred truck parts dealer tells me that the switch should not call for heat about 35-40 degrees. I had no problem extracting the snap ring that retained the aluminum bottom plate but got a bit of a bath when I pulled the plate from the bottom. This thing must have had a few ounces of water retained within the case. The element is saturated thoroughly and very heavy for it's physical size. I will pick up parts tomorrow now that I know that all is needed is routine service. There is really no pitting to the inside of the shell but quite a bit of grime buildup. Absolutely no oil is in the dryer, and the discharge line from the compressor is clean. I do wonder if it would be alright to glass bead the internal area where the sealing ring resides? I wanting to get the dryer settled before installing my new brake cans. I've got two on the rear that are rusted through on the parking brake side and you can see the coil spring inside one of them. Although I think all the rear cans are type 30/30, they are not the same manufacturer. I bought four new 30/30 spring brake chambers for the tandems, and two new type 20 for the steer axle. Also purchased two new quick release valves for the tandems. Thanks again for the help. Rob

I consider your personal attack neither warranted, welcome, or necessary. Please take it someplace else. Participate positively, or do not participate. A lot of good, useful information is exchanged, and discovered here and that is the point to this website. It is not for some smart alec to hide behind a computer keyboard and make personal attacks. Rob

I'm pretty sure it stands for "diesel particulate filter", or so I've been told at some time. I just know expensive for something not needed! Rob

If you are looking to drop in the carriers complete, it is not that big of a job. The switch of ring and pinions is quite a bit more work and a lot of dollars for very little gain. That close of gear ratio change would probably not be the best payback in my opinion. Rob